Wondering the difference in the timing cover. I have and eagle out of 14 durango. Swap is well under way. So far exhaust headers, a518 trans, rebuilt front end. Everything had been a bit of a challenge, but not impossible. I now need to figure out the alternator. Looks like there's room, but I'm not sure how far off the covers are from the cars. And what alternator to buy. We're really want this running and driving before the hot rod power tour, but may not be possible. Pipe dream right lol? Thanks for your help
Durango hemi vs car hemi timing cover?
- Thread starter billyboyd
- Start date
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I haven't personally done one yet, but the research I've done suggests that the front engine accessory drive from a truck based application is preferable to that of a car, due mainly to the alternator and p/s pump being mounted higher up, less likely to interfere with the k-member. Also it seem that a remote oil filter mount is necessary. Power Tour is 6 months away, hope that gives you enough time, if you've never been, it is an amazing experience, I look forward to going again, 2005 was my first and only opportunity so far, but I plan on making it again in the hear future.
Lots of info here from those with more knowledge on this subject than me.
Lots of info here from those with more knowledge on this subject than me.
My experience, I have done an A Body (71 Demon) and E Body (70 Cuda), both with car timing covers.
1. Intake manifold: Car you can use both truck and car intakes, Truck version, you can only use truck
2. Alternator: Car you need to trim the frame rail. Both Mopars I trimmed back to the box, this allows for servicing the alternator at a later time. Also, make sure you use the two lower bolts exact size so you can remove them from the mounting on the alternator. I think I used 10x1.5 by 100 mill. Also, I used a factory car alternator - expensive but easy to wire in. I used EFI Gold Box, so there is no computer control.
3. if you switch from truck or Durango, you will need car balancer
4. Mounts: Either version of cover has no impact on mount, but: I did us Schumakers with the E body and did not need to go with remote filter. I tried to use them again with the A body. Check your K member, the /6 type for A bodies allows for no remote. Again, Schumakcers is on back order, so I went with TTI. TTI's on A bodies is a definite remote set up. NOTE: with remote on car for A Body, it is compact in the oil fitting area and the sensor area. Point #2 for serviceability is helps future access to these ports and sensors.
5: Power steering: Cant help you here, both have been manual boxes. Cuda was awesome with a manual box, very fun and responsive. Demon is expected to be the same.
6. Both are not race cars, so this next statement is just general. You are dropping some weight in the front end with the Hemi 5.7. With this said, you can really feel it in the driving. In the Cuda, I originally had a 600hp 470. Wicked to drive but noticeably heavy in the front. When I went to the 5.7, you could really feel the difference. Also, you are adding power to the 5.7 (exhaust, tune, and drop in parasitic drag from components (in my case anyways). But a recommendation, at about 6-6200 the 5.7 drops on its face in factory form. Really noticeable in the Cuda (2012 Challenger motor - 395 hp). A cam will fix this, but the expense for this addition is a bit. For the Demon, I found a 6.4 manual car cam. Cam was $50 and I did springs, lifters etc while the motor was out.
1. Intake manifold: Car you can use both truck and car intakes, Truck version, you can only use truck
2. Alternator: Car you need to trim the frame rail. Both Mopars I trimmed back to the box, this allows for servicing the alternator at a later time. Also, make sure you use the two lower bolts exact size so you can remove them from the mounting on the alternator. I think I used 10x1.5 by 100 mill. Also, I used a factory car alternator - expensive but easy to wire in. I used EFI Gold Box, so there is no computer control.
3. if you switch from truck or Durango, you will need car balancer
4. Mounts: Either version of cover has no impact on mount, but: I did us Schumakers with the E body and did not need to go with remote filter. I tried to use them again with the A body. Check your K member, the /6 type for A bodies allows for no remote. Again, Schumakcers is on back order, so I went with TTI. TTI's on A bodies is a definite remote set up. NOTE: with remote on car for A Body, it is compact in the oil fitting area and the sensor area. Point #2 for serviceability is helps future access to these ports and sensors.
5: Power steering: Cant help you here, both have been manual boxes. Cuda was awesome with a manual box, very fun and responsive. Demon is expected to be the same.
6. Both are not race cars, so this next statement is just general. You are dropping some weight in the front end with the Hemi 5.7. With this said, you can really feel it in the driving. In the Cuda, I originally had a 600hp 470. Wicked to drive but noticeably heavy in the front. When I went to the 5.7, you could really feel the difference. Also, you are adding power to the 5.7 (exhaust, tune, and drop in parasitic drag from components (in my case anyways). But a recommendation, at about 6-6200 the 5.7 drops on its face in factory form. Really noticeable in the Cuda (2012 Challenger motor - 395 hp). A cam will fix this, but the expense for this addition is a bit. For the Demon, I found a 6.4 manual car cam. Cam was $50 and I did springs, lifters etc while the motor was out.
CichliDart
Well, where is it now?
I do not know first hand but the 4 part video from Chryslers at Carlisle video from Speedychic mentioned the Jeep front cover having the alternator slight closer to engine centerline and negating the need for notching the frame. Not sure which part but there are four parts to this.
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