Paint gun

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dodgedifferent2

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I paid a guy to paint my 67 dart and it came out beutiful.

I laid primer with an older suction gun which was new in the late 80s.

From time to time I have painted farm machinery with it.

Now I have been working on a 96 reg cab short box dakota with a big block swap. I am planning to save some money by painting it myself. I also have a 1931 model A in line for paint.

I am no professional painter and I know I cant compete at that level.

Air compressor is not an issue or concern.

I am looking at a new gravity fed hvlp gun. I see the devilbiss finishline guns at the $200 price range. The old suction gun can still lay the primers down. Mainly thinking single stage paints.

Is this a good gun for the price or are there better options in this range?
 
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I am in pretty much the same level of experience as you, and needed a better gun. I considered the Finish Line gun, but on the advice of @Alex5280 , and seeing the results he achieved on his Duster, I bought a Devilbis Tekna Pro Lite. Yes, it's more expensive....but it's worth every red cent! It makes me appear to be a much better painter than I am.....lol. I bought mine off Amazon.
 
For this price go for it. Well know brand and easy.
At work I got 2 iwata.some hvlp devilbiss for primer.
At home I got the eastwood low cfm model .small compressor.
 
That finishline is a good gun. I just bought a 3m accuspray. Mostly for production purposes an my end. It has disposable plastic tips for virtually no cleanup. I do clean them some times and reuse them but its nice just to throw it away when the primer starts going off. Its nice having four different tip size options. I haven't sprayed any mica base coat or clear yet but i think it would be just fine. I used the 2.0 tip with some reduced Raptor bed liner and it worked great for what I needed. I sprayed the top of a tailgate where the canopy door had rubbed through the paint. It laid out real smooth. You use the 3m disposable cups with it. Seems kind of spendy but it's worth it to me cause I spend a lot of time cleaning guns.
3M™ Accuspray One Spray Gun System | 3M United States

3M PPS Paint Preparation System | 3M United States
 
Paint guns don't make bad painters good. There is a significant difference between a $200 gun and say one of my Iwata ls400's that are almost 1k each. Check out an Iwata Lph300 they are a great sealer gun but also would work well with single stage paints. Most guns can be tailored to the product you'll be using.
 
@67Dart440GT What size tip do you use for sealer? I will be spraying a fiberglass topper for my wifes Dakota soon, and will only need to sand, seal, and spray BC/CC. I will more than likely use SPI epoxy, mixed to seal with.
 
@67Dart440GT What size tip do you use for sealer? I will be spraying a fiberglass topper for my wifes Dakota soon, and will only need to sand, seal, and spray BC/CC. I will more than likely use SPI epoxy, mixed to seal with.
Check the product sheet. Each paint producer will give you their recommendations on everything you need to know about the product and it's application. My guess would be a 1.3
 
Another good thing about Iwata guns is when changing needle and tips you can use the same air cap. A sata for example you need to change all three.
 
Thanks. The Tekna Pro Lite I have uses the same cap also, if you change needles. I have a nice Sata, that I got pretty cheap, but have never used it. I'm going to try it out on the next golf cart body I do. Painting the nose piece of a Club Car Precedent is like trying to paint a basketball....and not run it! LOL. SPI has top notch tech support, so I will double check before I start. Thanks again.
 
@67Dart440GT What size tip do you use for sealer? I will be spraying a fiberglass topper for my wifes Dakota soon, and will only need to sand, seal, and spray BC/CC. I will more than likely use SPI epoxy, mixed to seal with.
If the fiberglass has already been painted and you just scuffed it and did not break the surface, the sealing operation can be skipped. The only reason I don't recommend skipping the sealing operation is that I would rather have something go wrong (fish eyes/ contamination) in the sealer coat than in the color coat. #600 if you skip the sealer. #400 if you are sealing it. Single stage is more forgiving than base coat/ clear coat on the sand grit. You could get away with #400 without sealer with single stage.
 
Thanks. My plan is to water sand it with 400, clean it, and then seal it with light gray epoxy. It's in nice shape, and needs no repairs....it's just the wrong dang color. I'm going to paint the whole truck in the spring, and need to seal it too with the same color epoxy. The cap and the truck may not be an exact match, due to being painted at different times and probably conditions, but if the same color sealer is used on both, it should help. I know the BC/CC is double the work, but I've gotten comfortable using it.....plus, if I run it anywhere I can easily fix it. If I was doing it for a living instead of just for fun, I know I wouldn't be able to be so set in my ways....lol.
 
Thanks. My plan is to water sand it with 400, clean it, and then seal it with light gray epoxy. It's in nice shape, and needs no repairs....it's just the wrong dang color. I'm going to paint the whole truck in the spring, and need to seal it too with the same color epoxy. The cap and the truck may not be an exact match, due to being painted at different times and probably conditions, but if the same color sealer is used on both, it should help. I know the BC/CC is double the work, but I've gotten comfortable using it.....plus, if I run it anywhere I can easily fix it. If I was doing it for a living instead of just for fun, I know I wouldn't be able to be so set in my ways....lol.
I base just about everything too. So much easier to get the right coverage in tight spaces and imperative when blending.
 
Just kidding. I think you are correct. Those
$1000 Satas are over rated. What a lot of people don't realize is that these new guns and techniques are geared toward EPA regulations. Nothing wrong with a Binks #7 though the newer stuff does save on material usage ie product transfer.
 
i'll tell ya what, the new harbor freight black widow gun is getting real good reviews too. i'd love to try one out. the only bad thing is no new parts available, but for less than 200 bucks it would be worth trying.
 
I paid a guy to paint my 67 dart and it came out beutiful.

I laid primer with an older suction gun which was new in the late 80s.

From time to time I have painted farm machinery with it.

Now I have been working on a 96 reg cab short box dakota with a big block swap. I am planning to save some money by painting it myself. I also have a 1931 model A in line for paint.

I am no professional painter and I know I cant compete at that level.

Air compressor is not an issue or concern.

I am looking at a new gravity fed hvlp gun. I see the devilbiss finishline guns at the $200 price range. The old suction gun can still lay the primers down. Mainly thinking single stage paints.

Is this a good gun for the price or are there better options in this range?
From my research not at that price range although if you do get the finish line I would strictly use it for your single stage..

The next step up is the Iwataa 300 series for my money..
300 ish
Then the pro
400ish
 
Ha, I am a big spender, I go the $40 odd price for the guns from Summit and TCP Global. HF my a**!!! lol
They work good as long as you aren't spraying epoxy primer, the chemical reaction creates a lot of heat,the plastic kids swells,and guess what happens next??
 
They work good as long as you aren't spraying epoxy primer, the chemical reaction creates a lot of heat,the plastic kids swells,and guess what happens next??
Chemical reaction with the gun?
 
Not with the gun really,the heat lopsided the lid enough that paint will just run out of the threads and create one he'll of a mess. I could not figure out what was going on till about the 6 or seventh time spraying the primer. After cleaning the lid would seal like it should with thinner in it! UNTIL like the seventh time and thinner went everywhere. The next day the lid returned to normal size. I called summit and got my money back.
 
My car still has something that looks like a built up 3 d comb like people carried in their back pocket from the last adventure
 
Not with the gun really,the heat lopsided the lid enough that paint will just run out of the threads and create one he'll of a mess. I could not figure out what was going on till about the 6 or seventh time spraying the primer. After cleaning the lid would seal like it should with thinner in it! UNTIL like the seventh time and thinner went everywhere. The next day the lid returned to normal size. I called summit and got my money back.
I would say the solvent did that. Never seen enough heat generated by paint products to alter the state of anything.
 
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