Transmission, torque converter, updated starter questions

-
JeffreyLee

JeffreyLee

1965 Barracuda
Joined
Sep 20, 2017
Messages
158
Reaction score
71
Location
meridian Id
I am just about ready to install my 1967 318LA mated to the 904 transmission. I have the torque converter sitting ready to be installed, then mount the flex plate....Right sequence? How much trans fluid should I put into my TC when I install it? I should probably install the starter before I join the trans to the engine. I understand that it is common practice to put in a later model (early 90's?) smaller starter in place of the original, correct? What starter do you guys recommend? Any point in spending a bunch of money? I am changing to an electronic ignition if that matters...Am I missing anything? Thanks as always...Here's some PIX

IMG-5652.jpg
IMG-5653.jpg
IMG-5654.jpg
 
BTW, Just reading my post, mis-worded things here....Flex plate attaches the engine to the TC...I was actually talking about the lower trans cover.
 
What kind of exhaust are you running ? With headers, probably can't put the starter on. Might have to put the header in and loose, then the starter.
 
I pour a quart of fluid in a torque converter. Make sure it seats all the way in. Then mate together, then inspection cover.

Any mid 90's small block starter should work. I got one at a pick and pull from a 96 Ram 1500 5.2 L. Not sure when, but they changed to an electrical plug for the solenoid connection.
 
so far so good as far as advice goes
dbl check that the tc is in all the way and block with a wire or something so it can't sneak out of place many pumps get ruined that way
ask me how I know
cover can go on anytime- even after checking for leaks :)
Use ATF 4+ it's good stuff
do you have lock up
part throttle kick down (can be added later)
transgo reprogramming kit?
any A 999 parts? think for next time find a core during your spare time or a A500 or 518 92-95
 
I was getting antsy, so I just put in a couple of quarts of ATF into the TC and lined it up with the keyways and it slid in and bottomed out. In order to see if I was fully seated, I mocked up the stock starter to look at the gap between the flywheel and starter gears...Pictured Does that look good? When I spin the TC, it does not rotate the rear driveline studs. When I rotate the smaller splines on the Trans with the TC off, the driveline studs do rotate....Is this the "stall" in the TC, or am I not seated correctly to engage those driveline splines? Thanks
unnamed.jpg
 
Sterling said:
What kind of exhaust are you running ? With headers, probably can't put the starter on. Might have to put the header in and loose, then the starter.
Click to expand...
65 Barracuda here, no room for headers without sidewall surgery, so I'm sticking with stock exhaust manifolds. Thanks
 
Spin the entire torque converter to the right while pushing it in. You should have felt a drop. When are you planning to drop in the engine? Great stuff!!

Oh, but there is room for headers... barely lol. Here's my 66. The dual reservoir master cylinder didn't help either!

IMG_20191227_221406.jpg

IMG_20191229_175241.jpg

So little room they come in pieces, lol.
IMG_20191224_145057.jpg
 
Those headers look great, Super tight installation! Shoving a bunch of metal through that small hole behind the steering box and starter. Passenger side looks more do-able...Did you have to do something different with the oil filter bracket? I am planning on using one of those smaller, newer model starters on the other side. I heard that these Dougs Headers would work. How tough is the install actually?
 
It was tight. Good thing I have lots of patience...some of the header bolts were 1/4" at a time tightening. You feed the tubes from the top and some slip joint together and two on the driver's side have flanges that bolt together to the collector portion underneath. The driver's side torsion bar had to be removed, as well as the steering column and starter.

The 90 degree oil filter adapter has to come off and re-installed after headers are on

It really wasn't all that bad just not a lot of room to work.
 
From the pic in post 6, the TC is in deep enough; the lugs are below, the face of the bellhouse.
The flexplate and TC have one hole offset. you will want to find and mark these now, to save you the hassle to find them later. After indexing, I rotate the crank to put the marked lug pointing straight down. After the trans is installed, you then just pull the TC forward, rotate the marked lug down, and install the first bolt finger tite. Then rotate and continue. Then torque them up.
 
I agree with what AJ said about matching the flex plate to converter bolt holes before you bolt the transmission to the motor. Take the flex plate back off the motor, match it up to the converter so all 4 bolts line up to the converter lugs, then mark both the flex plate and converter. I usually hit them with a shot of spray paint. It will only line up one way, and it will save you a lot of aggravation to mark them beforehand.
 
What about the lack of rotation of the driveline studs when I spin the TC? Also, there doesn't seem to be a positive seal against trans fluid leakage between the TC and the trans....Is that just
AJ/FormS said:
From the pic in post 6, the TC is in deep enough; the lugs are below, the face of the bellhouse.
The flexplate and TC have one hole offset. you will want to find and mark these now, to save you the hassle to find them later. After indexing, I rotate the crank to put the marked lug pointing straight down. After the trans is installed, you then just pull the TC forward, rotate the marked lug down, and install the first bolt finger tite. Then rotate and continue. Then torque them up.
Click to expand...

Huge thank you AJ for bringing up the offset alignment of the flex plate....If you had not mentioned that, I would have fought and fought that battle later. Now things are lined up, spray paint my starting lug location on the flex plate and TC...Onwards! I also came to discover that there is one bolt that is coarse threaded and the other 3 are fine thread. I would have guessed that the coarse threaded bolt was the off centered lug, but it doesn't look like it from what I can see. What is the purpose of this difference?

Thanks again guys.....
J
 
JDMopar said:
I agree with what AJ said about matching the flex plate to converter bolt holes before you bolt the transmission to the motor. Take the flex plate back off the motor, match it up to the converter so all 4 bolts line up to the converter lugs, then mark both the flex plate and converter. I usually hit them with a shot of spray paint. It will only line up one way, and it will save you a lot of aggravation to mark them beforehand.
Click to expand...
Thank you too, JD...
J
 
Wyrmrider said:
so far so good as far as advice goes
dbl check that the tc is in all the way and block with a wire or something so it can't sneak out of place many pumps get ruined that way
ask me how I know
cover can go on anytime- even after checking for leaks :)
Use ATF 4+ it's good stuff
do you have lock up
part throttle kick down (can be added later)
transgo reprogramming kit?
any A 999 parts? think for next time find a core during your spare time or a A500 or 518 92-95
Click to expand...

Thanks for your response, I didn't understand the last half of your post.....Lock up? Transgo kit? A999 Parts, A500 or 518. I guess that you don't feel positive about my trans, I understand that, it is the small fry next to the torqueflite 727...but it is what came with my car and, just like the 71/4" rear end, I'm sticking with it. This is my first time doing anything like this, so I want to keep things simple. If it came on the car, it can cleaned up, re-built, re-sealed, and put back on the car...
Jeff
 
While it's separated from the engine might as well replace the front pump seal. It's not difficult to do. I did mine a few weeks ago before putting a new engine in.

The first seal I bought had the flange on it and is the wrong one. Had to go back and get the correct one. Took my old seal with me to the parts store.

Here's a short video removing the old seal.

 
you have a 67 trans
if you ever have to rebuild there are upgrades available
if you are handy with hand tools you can -later- get a later valve body with part throttle kickdown and install the transgo reprogrmming kit yourself- will give you more durability- then swap keeping your original vb untouched
you have time to read up- see the TF thread at FBBO for a start
if you can score an A999 from a later 360 store it for later
replacing that seal is much easier now than later
new o rings on the dipstick and the shift/ throttle levers (on top side of the trans
also much much more easy now than later
for now concentrate on adjusting the bands and the kick down linkage
I have not run into that bolt thread difference- has the converter been replaced sometime in the last 50 years?
glad you caught it on the bench- working under the car that kind of thing can drive u nuts
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top