EDELBROCK PRO FLO 4

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Get some machinists dye and find out if the intake ports and bolt holes are lining up. If they aren't, you will need to either have the intake or the intake side of the heads shaved down so everything lines up.

Sounds like his issue is not that the bolt holes don't line up, its that the bolts hit the runner when trying to install them. It's an issue on the super victor, and other intakes for sure. He can get the 1-1/4" bolts in, but the flange is too thick on the intake so that only leaves three threads to engage.
 
Sounds like his issue is not that the bolt holes don't line up, its that the bolts hit the runner when trying to install them. It's an issue on the super victor, and other intakes for sure. He can get the 1-1/4" bolts in, but the flange is too thick on the intake so that only leaves three threads to engage.
yes that's exactly the problem!!!!!
 
this is where the problem lies all the wholes line up ive had had all of them in except this one

View attachment 1715454792

My advice is, shortest bolt that will work (1-1/2), in a 12 point or a SHCS, and you'll possibly need to elongate the holes in the N/S direction (front to back).

You can also try slipping the bolt in the intake first, the pull it back as far as possible and drop the intake on. That will allow you to go in at a slight angle without hitting the head.
 
Here's a video of what I mean in about installing it before and then dropping the intake on. It's with a 1.5" bolt on the same intake you have.

You'll need to click on it when the new window opens, our you'll just get a repeating preview.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/5tGLrnSHUTz8X6oFA
 
Sounds like his issue is not that the bolt holes don't line up, its that the bolts hit the runner when trying to install them. It's an issue on the super victor, and other intakes for sure. He can get the 1-1/4" bolts in, but the flange is too thick on the intake so that only leaves three threads to engage.

Interesting! Hadn’t heard of that before, guess I’ll file that away in case I go this route.

thanks for the clarification!
 
I just went through this process with a stroked 390, EQ heads and the Pro Flo 4. I used the 12pt bolts like you and dry fitted without the gaskets. During the dry fit I had to clearance 2 of the manifold holes where the runner and flange do not allow the bolt to go vertical enough. After I got a good dry fit, I went to install with gaskets and ended up needing twice the normal RTV bead size on the China walls and cutting all 4 inside intake bolts down (different lengths) to work. Those 12pt. bolts don't allow and open end wrench, which would've made tightening them a lot easier.
 
This is the same issue with various other intake manifolds. Someone mentioned the Edelbrock SV, the regular Victor also has this issue. Very very tight. Some of the earlier more straight runner intakes also have this issue. Edelbrock or not.
 
so I ordered the pro flo last year for a mopar 360 I also ordered the edelbrock 60775 heads to match and I'm having a clearance issue with mounting the intake manifold to the motor I tried using studs and different type of bolts but the only bolts I can get threaded are really short and im only getting 3 threads into the heads. has any had this problem before or have any suggestions on how to get through this and im avoiding shaving the manifold the hole im having issues with are the #3 hole and the #6 hole thank you


If you bought this last year, be sure to also check the clearance around the distributor. Edelbrock cast the intakes with to much material in this area with at least a couple different molds. Distributor will not go completely into the block with manifold installed without grinding some additional material away. With any luck you have one of the updates.
 
If you bought this last year, be sure to also check the clearance around the distributor. Edelbrock cast the intakes with to much material in this area with at least a couple different molds. Distributor will not go completely into the block with manifold installed without grinding some additional material away. With any luck you have one of the updates.

Bought mine in August of last year, it had the distributor pocket machined and the updated throttle body, but had two of the three ports for temp sending units not drilled or tapped. I did that myself at work vs mailing it all back.
 
I have an older version and had to clearance for the distributor housing. I recommend reading the updated instructions on the Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 forum. There is an apparent change in the required coil that was previously recommended by Edelbrock (22741) that can due damage if used. I have to contact tech support and get a return authorization. I will add that my Vintage Air Sure-fit kit for 1968 B body and LA small block with EQ heads, came with a 1970 and up LA engine bracket kit (162774) that fit my early water pump (fabbed 2 spacers) and cleared the Pro Flo 4. I haven't lined up the pulleys but they can be shimmed if necessary.
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20200111_103223.jpg
 
I also checked the distributor it also did not clear the intake I will be calling edelbrock tomorrow because after all the money I spent on this intake and heads plus I ordered all the recommended parts to use with this set up its ridiculous that I would have to do any machining I will give an update tomorrow after I talk to them
 
I also checked the distributor it also did not clear the intake I will be calling edelbrock tomorrow because after all the money I spent on this intake and heads plus I ordered all the recommended parts to use with this set up its ridiculous that I would have to do any machining I will give an update tomorrow after I talk to them
Understand your position but in case you change your mind, 30 seconds with a die grinder fixed mine!
 
I also checked the distributor it also did not clear the intake I will be calling edelbrock tomorrow because after all the money I spent on this intake and heads plus I ordered all the recommended parts to use with this set up its ridiculous that I would have to do any machining I will give an update tomorrow after I talk to them

They will most likely tell you to send it back. They have known about this issue for almost 2 years now since I first reported it. (According to them) Their claim at the time was “we’ve never seen this before”. Hard to believe after all these years making manifolds they could have this type of issue. I had two castings with this identical problem. Seems they would have recalled the unsold units and fixed them, but why do that when the customer can do their R&D for them? Another post above with threads not tapped?? WTF???

In all reality it’s easier to fix yourself than send it back.
 
They will most likely tell you to send it back. They have known about this issue for almost 2 years now since I first reported it. (According to them) Their claim at the time was “we’ve never seen this before”. Hard to believe after all these years making manifolds they could have this type of issue. I had two castings with this identical problem. Seems they would have recalled the unsold units and fixed them, but why do that when the customer can do their R&D for them? Another post above with threads not tapped?? WTF???

In all reality it’s easier to fix yourself than send it back.
I do agree it probably would but I talked to them today I had to take picture and take measurements and email it to them and they will get back with me about replacement
 
I do agree it probably would but I talked to them today I had to take picture and take measurements and email it to them and they will get back with me about replacement

Pictures and measurements??? They know this is an issue. Should have taken care of it immediately. So much for customer service.
 
Pictures and measurements??? They know this is an issue. Should have taken care of it immediately. So much for customer service.
yes after talking about 3 or 4 different people I finally got the right guy said they know about the issues and after I sent him multiple pictures and measurements they agreed to swap me out a new one (they made some changes to the design about 6 months ago) so if you are like me and purchased last year and haven't got to it yet you might want to check these problem as you might have a bad casting too
 
They should just design a single plane intake manifold with similar dimensions and design as the their standard LA Air Gap and Magnum Air Gap with enough fittings in the water passage area for both a factory water temp gauge, Pro Flo temp gauge, fitting for the heater hose, etc. Also, same height as the Air Gap to fit under the hood easier. That's just my opinion (not like anyone asked :p).
 
ok guys so after a week after I waited around to get the new intake I did get it and was happy with the new casting the new intake did have a channel where I was having the clearance issues, they had a much cleaner distributor cutout and they also sent 1-3/8 12 point bolts... after about 12 hours of messing around this thing I did get the intake on and I'm convinced its the best I'm going to get but those holes that was close to the runners I had to grind the bold to 11/32 square head just to get it to thread on properly I'm still unsatisfied with the design of the intake I mean I had to have a buddie wiggle the intake to get both of the bolts threaded properly
 
Agreed that it is BS that they (Edelbrock) can’t cast and fix these issues after all this time and can’t cast a new one without new issues as in the distributor clearance problem. They’ve been making intakes for years after all.

After all of this and the treatment I’ve received from the moderator on their form for disagreeing with him I believe I’ve bought my last product from them.
 
yes I do agree I was about to just pack it all up and send it all back because I was so mad heads and all I was about to go back 3 months of work because I was so upset but I got it to work but I will definitely not go with Edelbrock again!
 
yes I do agree I was about to just pack it all up and send it all back because I was so mad heads and all I was about to go back 3 months of work because I was so upset but I got it to work but I will definitely not go with Edelbrock again!

While I understand the frustration, I have to ask what other options do we have for multiport in this price range? Edelbrock is at least $1000 cheaper then the Holley HP, and actually more once you add an intake, distributor, coil and so forth. Also, with that system you will have to use most likely Edelbrock intake, and if you want to use something besides the same Super Victor EFI intake, you will have to drill another intake to accept injectors. That said, this all makes me want to consider something like the Holley Terminator TBI system just to avoid all the heartache you are having with the Pro Flo 4
 
yes I do agree I was about to just pack it all up and send it all back because I was so mad heads and all I was about to go back 3 months of work because I was so upset but I got it to work but I will definitely not go with Edelbrock again!

When it comes to intakes with EFI, there's really no other choice.

Not even Holley supports the Mopar crowd with a Holley or Weiand intake with EFI. They could if they wanted to. It would most likely be more expensive than Edelbrock though. Would be cool if they had a multiport Sniper system though that utilizes their Hyperspark distributor and a trottle body with the ECU right on it to save cost. FiTech has something simliar for Chevys and Fords.

Not even the China knock-off companies like Speedmaster make an intake with EFI for the small blocks, although I did talk to one of the reps from Speedmaster and urged him to have his company make one. He mentioned that he gets calls all the time for that. Not sure if he was just blowing smoke up my "you know what" or not. Although, it seems that at one point they did have one: Mopar Chrysler Dodge SB 318 340 360 High Rise 4150 Manifold

Seems like as MOPAR enthusiasts, we're stuck with whatever Edelbrock gives us, good or bad. :sigh: For now at least.
 
I just bolted a efi pro4 on a 416/340 block edelbrock heads. Yes I had to grind on the intake to get bolts to fit in #3 and #6 inside intake holes and slot all bolts to heads as the ports lined up but holes were 1/6 high for bolts to fit. And cut 2 bolts shorter. And if edelbrock would raise there land on the heads for the valve cover gasket .250 we would not have to grind our valve covers. Trickflow is next for me.
 
...:BangHead:...I must not have gotten the memo...reading 3 pages of info here, well I guess the forum will be fastest most up to speed, then when I get half the answer I needed, I'll be back to get the whole right answer.
Put it on a 318, .40 over, or 324 cu in, Edlebrock RPM were heads were already on and done, cam is .450 lift, 223 duration, it got here with 35 lb/hr injectors.The FAQ I always get, yes-"I installed a sump on it.", and fuel pressures to 60 when on.
I knew before I pushed send it would never be as perfect easy smooth fast as shown by the many videos. I sure didn't expect it to start first time I hit the key either, but it did.
I Just couldn't get it to fire back up after it died yesterday.
Had to replace the ipad with my phone then phone wasn't handling it, and being interrupted, would keep quitting and ended up on a tablet. Before starting it was on timing, I had the choice of 21 or 27 deg. After that start it reduced to either 12 or 15 deg. So what I'm thinking is that it had an original set of 36, I have to get the distributor to go back to that part of set-up before I can get it really set again like it was supposed to be.
I'm charging the battery with the hot cable off the battery, don't know if that clears it or if I should unplug it from the EFI, and or make it hot again by cycling it on and off with it disconnected? Don't need to do the wrong thing either.
Like I said, be back for the full correct answer in a few.....
 
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