Crank bolt to hold damper
last ditch effort without removing the crank (sunday night need to get to work monday morning or your in the finals and this **** happens, run what you got or go home) Use a C.A.T. damper (took a longer bolt anyway, had to go to a bolt shop and get one that was 1/4 longer) that is notoriously tight on the snout and a balancer installer (Lisle balancer puller works) It has the aformentioned threaded arbor that fully threads into the crank snout until bottomed (last 3 threads may do it) and a jackscrew nut: grease and place arbor in crank, run it down until tight, run damper over it and thread nut on. Hold arbor with 1/2 box end while tightening 1" nut. The holding power of the last 3 threads without a turning force on them may be enough to get the balancer on far enough so a retention bolt is not even needed (think Slants that had no balancer bolt from the factory, they ran the pulley on and removed the bolt or pressed them on) Mopar 2.0 didnt come with a bolt either IIRC. Run longer bolt 3 threads snug with blue locktite for peace of mind, it wont pull on threads much because the balancer has already been pressed on so its only on for retention) Heat the hub of the CAT balancer (per their instructions) and slide it on fast and use an impact on jack nut to get it on as fast and as deep as possible, then start cranking on the jack nut. If you had access to a lot of metal and a machine shop, you could make a bridge across a few other threaded bosses in the block (timing case bolts) and use that as a fixture to press on the balancer. Just thinking out loud here.....Mine looked like this and if you took the floating center off the end, it was 7/8-14 NF just like the crank ID.
last ditch effort without removing the crank (sunday night need to get to work monday morning or your in the finals and this **** happens, run what you got or go home) Use a C.A.T. damper (took a longer bolt anyway, had to go to a bolt shop and get one that was 1/4 longer) that is notoriously tight on the snout and a balancer installer (Lisle balancer puller works) It has the aformentioned threaded arbor that fully threads into the crank snout until bottomed (last 3 threads may do it) and a jackscrew nut: grease and place arbor in crank, run it down until tight, run damper over it and thread nut on. Hold arbor with 1/2 box end while tightening 1" nut. The holding power of the last 3 threads without a turning force on them may be enough to get the balancer on far enough so a retention bolt is not even needed (think Slants that had no balancer bolt from the factory, they ran the pulley on and removed the bolt or pressed them on) Mopar 2.0 didnt come with a bolt either IIRC. Run longer bolt 3 threads snug with blue locktite for peace of mind, it wont pull on threads much because the balancer has already been pressed on so its only on for retention) Heat the hub of the CAT balancer (per their instructions) and slide it on fast and use an impact on jack nut to get it on as fast and as deep as possible, then start cranking on the jack nut. If you had access to a lot of metal and a machine shop, you could make a bridge across a few other threaded bosses in the block (timing case bolts) and use that as a fixture to press on the balancer. Just thinking out loud here.....Mine looked like this and if you took the floating center off the end, it was 7/8-14 NF just like the crank ID.
