727 Build for Mid-10s

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mopowers said:
What parts do you have in the transmission in your 10.0 car?
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Unfortunately, I don't know, as I have'nt had it apart and I did'nt build it. It's a transbrake unit, with an heavy aluminum? shield (TCI). I have'nt really got to use it as much as i would like too, but maybe that willl change this year....
 
one more thing. when you adjust the bands, make sure trans pan mounting is pointing up. the reason for that is so the bands are "at rest" as opposed to being cocked down. you will get almost perfect band adjustment that way.
 
I tore the 727 apart last week, but had a chance to take apart the sub-assemblies today - clutch drums and whatnot. Everything looked good. Saw a couple parts that need to be addressed, but nothing crazy. Pretty clean for a 52 yr old part.

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Maybe he'll just examine every wear surface. Posting that pile of parts that we've all seen before just gave me the impression that he was going to make assumptions about worn areas of hard parts.
 
My rear clutch drum/input shaft assembly has about .020" of play and found this nifty video:



Since mine has the early thinner '834' clutch piston and associated diaphragm spring, is it worth upgrading to the later thicker piston and stronger later-style diaphragm spring to help minimize this play? How much slop in that assembly is too much? Is there any other way to reduce this slop other than replacing the piston?
 
oldkimmer said:
The play is designed it. It has to have it. Kim
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Thanks Kim! Just to play devil's advocate, if it's designed in, why does CRT and A&A sell thicker pistons to eliminate that play?

Do you see any issue with using the stock early style belleville spring with a high pressure valvebody?
 
I have never once used that piston to take out the play. I was always told they need some play. But I’m old school. I have built many 727 in over 40 years and never once had that problem. Kim
 
we had a problem with the bellville spring. sometimes it will go over center and fingers are now up not down. also, at monster mopar in madison ill, years ago i talked to and bought from a&a, a fiber 727 disc that was turned down and had the fiber removed . it fits in that drum and helps reduce the play. we now make our own.
 
Jadaharabi said:
Post #7 next to last line. "A CRT front pump." I believe John drills out the passages and installs new gears.
Plugging the vent hole behind the torque converter in the front pump housing is purty much a given on a 904 & 727. If you don't you may be chasing a leaking front seal that is not leaking.
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What do you mean by drills out the passages, enlarges them?
Do you know which ones he drills?
 
mopowers said:
My rear clutch drum/input shaft assembly has about .020" of play and found this nifty video:



Since mine has the early thinner '834' clutch piston and associated diaphragm spring, is it worth upgrading to the later thicker piston and stronger later-style diaphragm spring to help minimize this play? How much slop in that assembly is too much? Is there any other way to reduce this slop other than replacing the piston?
Click to expand...

John Cope also has a video about this. According to John if/when the piston comes too far out of the bore, it also tears the seals on the way back in and results in a no drive condition. This is a 727 only problem and only with a transbrake with big line pressure as stated in the video.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
Only use smooth Red Eagle thins .061 in the drums. You can squeeze more in the front one that way.
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You would use smooth clutches in the front shifting drum?
I was always told the front should be grooved or waffles to prevent
Hydro planing on the 2-3 shift.
 
All the 6-7 plate directs use smooths that I have seen. I thought the grooves were for cooling. But Red Eagles can take the heat. If the grooves were for hydroplaning, then they would be radial.
 
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