New 408 build finally started

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pittsburghracer

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Cleared a spot in the front of my shop and started gathering head studs, main studs, (pistons, rods, and crank) were already out here, I located a set of full groove main bearings on my shelf, and what ready made my day I located a set of Clevite CB-663 HXN Chevy sized rod bearings that have the extra clearance. I knew I had a new Cloyes Billet timing chain because I got jammed up on my last build and ordered one from another vendor because of backorder. I hope to check clearances ASAP and install the 4 corner pistons to check deck height then I can send the assembly out to get balanced. While it’s out I can detail the block and tube the oil galleys. Finally some forward progress.
 
FINALLY!!!!! Is this the one getting the RB cam? Either way, can't wait to see the final product.

Going to try to call Jim tomorrow afternoon and see why it’s a cast cam. I would like to degree it in fast and check valve to piston while I have the four pistons in.
 
like that you are mocking up the 4 corners
that's the way I do it
I also check the bearing hole alingments which I'm sure you know but others will be reading this
let's see
I drill through the thrust into the oil feed to pressure lube the thrust
and chamfer from the groove to the rear at the parting lines
what else
discussion on the front oil plugs- I drill them to let air and foam out
heck= detail everything
I've found broken taps and short drilled holes even a broken drill in an oil feed
had to oil around the flutes- 440 with hundred thou plus on it with no problems
cheers
 
Whatcha running now. lol
My old stock block 408 went low 9.70’s with a worn out block. (Edelbrock heads)

My R3 422 ran 9.42 with Indy heads but it only had a solid lifter cam in it.

The 9.50’s Target is with a stock 360 block Edelbrock headed engine.
 
like that you are mocking up the 4 corners
that's the way I do it
I also check the bearing hole alingments which I'm sure you know but others will be reading this
let's see
I drill through the thrust into the oil feed to pressure lube the thrust
and chamfer from the groove to the rear at the parting lines
what else
discussion on the front oil plugs- I drill them to let air and foam out
heck= detail everything
I've found broken taps and short drilled holes even a broken drill in an oil feed
had to oil around the flutes- 440 with hundred thou plus on it with no problems
cheers


I’ve never had an issue with the thrust bearing with a powerglide except one time and it was my fault. Some aftermarket cranks (I’ve seen it with eagle and K1 cranks) are tight from the factory in the rear of the crank where the converter hub rides. I now test fit every one and if I don’t like it I take a flapper sanding wheel and give it a quick hit. I also go heavy on the thrust bearing clearance because of how high I leave off the transbrake.
 
Mostly done with heavy clutch but I do not run as stiff a clutch anymore
First McLeod's Borg and Beck Long and now newer solutions
but would not hurt with a trans brake
The newer later thrust works, you can mod earlier blocks when you line bore but a lot fit
but you already have the mains
I'd try the thrust during mock up
I don/t know why every build does not get a mock up
I've lost thrusts- ruins your weekend
 
I’ve never had an issue with the thrust bearing with a powerglide except one time and it was my fault. Some aftermarket cranks (I’ve seen it with eagle and K1 cranks) are tight from the factory in the rear of the crank where the converter hub rides. I now test fit every one and if I don’t like it I take a flapper sanding wheel and give it a quick hit. I also go heavy on the thrust bearing clearance because of how high I leave off the transbrake.

What do you set your thrust bearing clearance at?
 
What do you set your thrust bearing clearance at?


I’m not sure how detailed I’m going to get into this because there are a few things I do that’s a little different than the professional engine builders and I really don’t want to explain or defend my reasons for doing so. I’m just an old school hack that has tried a few things over the years and they worked well for me but go against “the book”.
 
I’m not sure how detailed I’m going to get into this because there are a few things I do that’s a little different than the professional engine builders and I really don’t want to explain or defend my reasons for doing so. I’m just an old school hack that has tried a few things over the years and they worked well for me but go against “the book”.

I think your results speak for themselves.
 
That and you’ll have every internet know nothing hero telling you how your **** is going to eat itself, how your wasting your money, misleading the membership and probably insult you and call you stupid for doing what has work for years and years because the book and/or there world renowned engine build it does it differently and better than you.

It’s actually amazing how well the K.I.S.S method works.

Looking forward to the build John. And thanks! I certainly appreciate it.

I’m not sure how detailed I’m going to get into this because there are a few things I do that’s a little different than the professional engine builders and I really don’t want to explain or defend my reasons for doing so. I’m just an old school hack that has tried a few things over the years and they worked well for me but go against “the book”.
 
If it performs to your expected level and is reliable, No reason to deviate from what works for you or justify it, even if its a hamster on a wheel in there! :)
 
I’m not sure how detailed I’m going to get into this because there are a few things I do that’s a little different than the professional engine builders and I really don’t want to explain or defend my reasons for doing so. I’m just an old school hack that has tried a few things over the years and they worked well for me but go against “the book”.

Ok, was just curious.
 
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Ok just got off the phone from a nice talk with Jim Dowel of Racer Brown. There where some strength questions regarding the cast steel (not Billet) roller cam I planned to use for this build that I had sitting here for probably well over 10 years. I gave Jim my engine specs, app head flow numbers, convertor stall, and shift rpm (app 7000) and he said no issues on it no being Billet steel. He said because of the lower shift rpm if it would make me sleep better set it up for 200-220 seat and 550 open instead of the suggested 600-650. This will also let me use a hardened oil pump drive instead of bronze.
 
Who cares what the book says when experience trumps it. Your junk is fast and you’ve proven it over and over. Please feel free to add any (all) old school hack tricks you wish. That’s why I am following. Naysayers can be naysayers all they want.
 
I like the lower spring loads too. Like I mentioned before, valve float will be damaging very quickly.

I think that cam is pretty cool. It's not a super agressive lobe, but it has a relatively tight lash number and the LSA isn't blown out to cover up a lack of duration.

This build will be cool as all get out.
 
John, do you do all the oiling mods described in the Guitar Jones thread?
I tubed the passenger side on my block and shut the oil off to the driver side with a set screw in the #1 main saddle. Is that how you do it also?
 
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