10's on $5,000 ?

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A stock 360, aftermarket intake, 750 carb, headers, cam, mild head work...... should easily make 300hp.

In an optimized race car, that would be enough power to run 12.40’s @ 104.
If it was a 90% combo it could run 12.80’s at 101.

13.30 @3400lbs shows about 240hp.
So, if the motor made the 280-300hp it “should”, you have what’s likely about an 80-85% combo.
Let's keep it correct. No head work. Cam is .427 lift/204 @050 - less than a factory 360 4bbl cam. And you'd expect that with 2.94's? Stock converter?? Now recalculate please....
 
Let's keep it correct. No head work. Cam is .427 lift/204 @050 - less than a factory 360 4bbl cam. And you'd expect that with 2.94's? Stock converter?? Now recalculate please....
Recalculate what?

The motor makes what it makes, the car goes what it goes.

If the car is slower than the power to weight ratio indicates..... then the problem is in the car.

Having a car with the wrong gearing and the wrong converter doesn’t make the motor produce less power.

I don’t know how bad a 360 with an aftermarket intake, 750 Holley, and headers, along with some sort of aftermarket cam would have to be to not be able to make 280 STP(standard temp and pressure)corrected hp on an engine dyno.

But none of that matters as far as the upcoming 10-4-5 project is concerned.

It makes no difference what I or anyone else thinks about how it will turn out.
You’ll show up at the track with it...... and it’ll do-what-it-do.
 
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Read the rules but have a question.

Are subframe connectors allowed?

You must not have seen the rule that says...... if it doesn’t say you can do something.......then you can’t.

Basically, you start with a 100% stock car, and you can only change the things specifically listed.

This past September.......
1972 340 Demon(low cr, small valve heads)....... 12.46@108

A few years ago.......
73 360 Duster, 3.55’s, 3504lbs, 13.78@100(shows about 270hp)
 
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Recalculate what?

The motor makes what it makes, the car goes what it goes.

If the car is slower than the power to weight ratio indicates..... then the problem is in the car.

Having a car with the wrong gearing and the wrong converter doesn’t make the motor produce less power.

I don’t know how bad a 360 with an aftermarket intake, 750 Holley, and headers, along with some sort of aftermarket cam would have to be to not be able to make 280 STP(standard temp and pressure)corrected hp on an engine dyno.

But none of that matters as far as the upcoming 10-4-5 project is concerned.

It makes no difference what I or anyone else thinks about how it will turn out.
You’ll show up at the track with it...... and it’ll do-what-it-do.
I guess the post where you said "mild head work" and all that and what a car (or my car) should do. I was just using my current Duster as in "on paper" vs "reality" as in all the paper, Wallace calculators, Dyno pulls ... ANYWAYS, you are correct, none of any of this will make a difference on what my car will or will not do. 12.2's to 10.9's .... who knows.
 
obviously there are so many "unknowns" at this point. What car will be used? Will it be a 440 or 400? I mean, a ton of speculation. Another thing is a lot of my components will be chosen according to the budget, not what I consider optimal. It will also be what I'm able to do in my driveway, another unique avenue of this project. I'm not in a climate controlled shop with bench flows, boring and honing machines, or the ability to do a 5 angle valve job. Like my low dollar 318 project, I picked the pieces that fit "under 500" budget set for that project.
 
You must not have seen the rule that says...... if it doesn’t say you can do something.......then you can’t.

Basically, you start with a 100% stock car, and you can only change the things specifically listed.

This past September.......
1972 340 Demon(low cr, small valve heads)....... 12.46@108

A few years ago.......
73 360 Duster, 3.55’s, 3504lbs, 13.78@100(shows about 270hp)

In 1973 they did not put 360s in the duster from the factory.
 
In 1973 they did not put 360s in the duster from the factory.
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Building cool cars for cheap is cool but it can piss off the guy that spend big $$ to do the same.

Sorta like me beating the guy with the $100,000 horse with my $5000 horse. Makes them pissy. lol
 
In 1973 they did not put 360s in the duster from the factory.
Typo on my part....... it’s a 74.

In any case, it’s a very legit car running 100mph with a pure stock build 360 in a 3500lb car on non-sticky tires with 3.55’s.
Factory rated at 245hp.

At 100mph, the power to weight ratio is good enough to run a very high 12......... but the car is obviously not optimized to facilitate that happening.
 
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Building cool cars for cheap is cool but it can piss off the guy that spend big $$ to do the same.

Sorta like me beating the guy with the $100,000 horse with my $5000 horse. Makes them pissy. lol
you are right, it can. But I don't do it for that reason. For me it's about keeping the hobby affordable for us. It also keeps it fun. I always build to my liking, not the approval of others.
 
I always build to my liking, not the approval of others.
I'm good with that, I like making power with iron heads, no computer programs here but just time. The 440 has been refreshed twice since I put it together in 91 and now it has the smallest cam its ever had. The result was 645 hp at 6300 and 620 tq at 4900. Now this is an e-85 motor converted from race gas for the street. If I compromised it's in the cam I don't run it to 7200 any more but it's still making 640 hp at 6900 rpm. I know the heads have stalled and the TF heads would still be making power but it doesn't matter because I have slowed ALL my junk down to 6500 rpm Fords and Mopar both. What I did with the iron head mopars is well that's top secret. :)
We all have are principles, the things we will and won't do. If you don't like it to bad.
 
I'm going to add one thing that while bracket racing I'm a sandbagger, that is I dial a tenth or two soft and tun that number, on the brakes if necessary, and I'm good at it.
 
I'm going to add one thing that while bracket racing I'm a sandbagger, that is I dial a tenth or two soft and tun that number, on the brakes if necessary, and I'm good at it.
yeah, a game many play. I don't bracket race, run test n tune. Sometimes I'm forced to run trophy, and the last time I ran trophy I came home with one :)
 
It takes a bold man to admit he's a sandbagger. lol How many times you been put on the trailer. lol
 
Sandbagger, so what's wrong with that?
nothing, but in todays game you would breakout more times than not playing with good bracket racers with good equipment.
Have you ever ran 12's, 11's, 10's and 9's with the same car. lol
 
nothing, but in todays game you would breakout more times than not playing with good bracket racers with good equipment.
Have you ever ran 12's, 11's, 10's and 9's with the same car. lol
Most drivers at my track, per say, dial a 11.45 on a car that actually goes 11.41. But most don't sandbag by 2 or 3 tenths. Guys at my track will put them on the trailer because you have to cut a .008 light or better to be competitive for more than a round or two, and their cars run the number. Glad I run for fun !! :D
 
Looks like we (me, son, son-in-law) are going to make an attempt on this. Buy and build a car to go 10's on throttle on a 5,000 dollar budget (even a 10.99). Street car I might add. Sorry, it won't be an A-body because of pricing. Most likely will be a 4 door. Already bought some pieces. The journey should be a blast either way

That's easy build a first gen Dakota.
Looks like we (me, son, son-in-law) are going to make an attempt on this. Buy and build a car to go 10's on throttle on a 5,000 dollar budget (even a 10.99). Street car I might add. Sorry, it won't be an A-body because of pricing. Most likely will be a 4 door. Already bought some pieces. The journey should be a blast either way
Have you looked into maybe building a First gen Dakota? You can find them pretty cheap with blown up stock engines. Also they can be made to weighed 3200 pounds. My friend built a 94 extended cab 2 wheel drive dakota, that he built into a race truck. He built a 2000 5.9 magnum that was built for a claimed class. So he probably had around $1500 in the engine.maybe less. But any way he ran a bunch of 7.16 at 96 mph in the 1/8. He then tool a 200,000 mile 5.7 hemi that had a rod let go and put a small hole in the block. He welded the hole up and replaced the one pistion/rod that broke with a used set up he had. Added a bigger than stock cam and some home ported eagle heads. In the same 94 dakota with everything elesecthe same as when he had the 5.9 magnum engine in it. He ran a bunch of 6.80 at 99/100 in the 1/8 mile. Now for the hemi,the intake and the MSD Hemi ignition cost some money. But I couldn't believe how good that junk yard 5.7 hemi ran for what little was done to it. I decided to build a dakota my self after see how much used A bodys are going for now days. I am building a 96 Dakota SB to race. I bought the 5.9 magnum off my friend that had it in his 94. With the 904 and my gutted 96 I hope to run 7.00/ 10.99 in the 1/8 mile and 1/4 mile. Well what ever you decide to build i hope you post it here.
 
That's easy build a first gen Dakota.

Have you looked into maybe building a First gen Dakota? You can find them pretty cheap with blown up stock engines. Also they can be made to weighed 3200 pounds. My friend built a 94 extended cab 2 wheel drive dakota, that he built into a race truck. He built a 2000 5.9 magnum that was built for a claimed class. So he probably had around $1500 in the engine.maybe less. But any way he ran a bunch of 7.16 at 96 mph in the 1/8. He then tool a 200,000 mile 5.7 hemi that had a rod let go and put a small hole in the block. He welded the hole up and replaced the one pistion/rod that broke with a used set up he had. Added a bigger than stock cam and some home ported eagle heads. In the same 94 dakota with everything elesecthe same as when he had the 5.9 magnum engine in it. He ran a bunch of 6.80 at 99/100 in the 1/8 mile. Now for the hemi,the intake and the MSD Hemi ignition cost some money. But I couldn't believe how good that junk yard 5.7 hemi ran for what little was done to it. I decided to build a dakota my self after see how much used A bodys are going for now days. I am building a 96 Dakota SB to race. I bought the 5.9 magnum off my friend that had it in his 94. With the 904 and my gutted 96 I hope to run 7.00/ 10.99 in the 1/8 mile and 1/4 mile. Well what ever you decide to build i hope you post it here.
So what don't you agree with?
 
I was just using my current Duster as in "on paper" vs "reality" as in all the paper, Wallace calculators, Dyno pulls ... ANYWAYS, you are correct, none of any of this will make a difference on what my car will or will not do. 12.2's to 10.9's .... who knows.

Your 3500lb? Duster@289fwhp/26" tyre?/2.94 gears. (Moroso always shows less hp) on paper>
60 Foot E.T. : 1.86
1/8 Mile E.T. : 8.44
1/8 Mile Trap Speed : 80.54
1/4 Mile E.T. : 13.38
1/4 Mile Trap Speed : 100
You only shifted once as you said is why your car ran what it did.....My stock headed 340 '71 Cuda ran the same, 13.31's@101...3550lbs, 3.55's/26"tyres, that showed 298fwhp...2 gear changes.
 
That's easy build a first gen Dakota.

Have you looked into maybe building a First gen Dakota? You can find them pretty cheap with blown up stock engines. Also they can be made to weighed 3200 pounds. My friend built a 94 extended cab 2 wheel drive dakota, that he built into a race truck. He built a 2000 5.9 magnum that was built for a claimed class. So he probably had around $1500 in the engine.maybe less. But any way he ran a bunch of 7.16 at 96 mph in the 1/8. He then tool a 200,000 mile 5.7 hemi that had a rod let go and put a small hole in the block. He welded the hole up and replaced the one pistion/rod that broke with a used set up he had. Added a bigger than stock cam and some home ported eagle heads. In the same 94 dakota with everything elesecthe same as when he had the 5.9 magnum engine in it. He ran a bunch of 6.80 at 99/100 in the 1/8 mile. Now for the hemi,the intake and the MSD Hemi ignition cost some money. But I couldn't believe how good that junk yard 5.7 hemi ran for what little was done to it. I decided to build a dakota my self after see how much used A bodys are going for now days. I am building a 96 Dakota SB to race. I bought the 5.9 magnum off my friend that had it in his 94. With the 904 and my gutted 96 I hope to run 7.00/ 10.99 in the 1/8 mile and 1/4 mile. Well what ever you decide to build i hope you post it here.
yes, gave that some thought... but I'd rather a car with BB
 
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