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Dart 67 sedan

Dart 67 sedan

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I have a chance to buy two sets of W2. They are from different sellers. Both want the same amount for each set. One set is W2 closed chamber NOS. the other is open chamber used. Both have no hardware, Which do I buy and why . Plan on building race only engine. Thanks for you input
 
I have heard, and others will correct me if I am wrong, that there were some castings that were crack prone, don't know what casting numbers were/are involved.
Is either set "Econo" castings?
Myself I prefer closed chamber style heads as I beleave it is easier to build compression with less dome and therefore lighter piston. You didn't say what you will be bolting these down on...not that it makes a whole lot of difference other than the decision of shelf piston or custom.
 
I thought some of the closed chamber versions used rockers that weren’t the “normal” W2 stuff.

There’s also 48* and 59* closed chamber W2’s.

I’d want to know the “part number”(the number on the box) of the heads you’re looking at(NOT the casting number)

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Six of one and half dozen of the other. With no hardware your talking a load of money either way. Doesn't matter closed or open chamber your going to buy pistons to build it they way you need it. You still need valves, springs, retainers, shafts (special), rockers arms (special intakes), push rod (you'll be making them), gaskets, intake and exhaust manifolds... ECT $$$
 
Dart 67 sedan said:
I have a chance to buy two sets of W2. They are from different sellers. Both want the same amount for each set. One set is W2 closed chamber NOS. the other is open chamber used. Both have no hardware, Which do I buy and why . Plan on building race only engine. Thanks for you input
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I agree with PRH. Need to know exactly what they have first. Then, we need to what you have, or what you want to do.

Don't let the rocker arm/shaft deal bother you. There are rockers out there. FABO member Rocket has really, REALLY nice shafts. I'd rather have the ductile iron rockers than anything Harland Sharp, but that's just me. The only real fault with the ductile rockers is they only come in 1.5 ratio. Other than that, bitchin' rockers.

You'll also need stands with offset holes. The shafts need offset holes as well.

Every engine needs pushrods so who cares?

There are intakes out there. I'll be seeking a used one this weekend at a swap meet. There around and relatively inexpensive.

I'm not a fan of the closed chambered heads. If you can get a piston builder to make the piston correctly for the open chambered head (I'll be trying that later this year so we will see how that goes...most of them have GM on the brain and you have to holler to get them to understand what you want, even before you send a drawing or fill out their form) then I like the OC head.

Find out the details and then you can make a better choice.
 
Thanks for the input. The closed chamber heads are P4532693 castings. with 070904 and 9769 stamped on the end of the head. I was told this was the last of the W2's made. Will be putting on a 360 ,40 over if I can find a good block. Know where there is an R3 . Trying to make a deal on that. But he won't give an inch . Will keep trying to get a deal. I'm leaning toward the closed chamber, because of the history of open chambers breaking. can't afford to keep replacing heads. Can't afford to build W2's but why not. If it's out there and is a good part go for it.
 
If it is the older open style chambered head, that’s what I would use give. The choice between the open d closed chambers. Econo or not though not would be better IMO.

Just slowly gather parts for the heads. It hurts less. Make a plan and stick to it. Deviating from the plan cost a lot more!
 
In box full YR....
What W2 intake do you search for?
MP/M1?
Holler Street Dominator?
Strip Dominator?
yellow rose said:
I agree with PRH. Need to know exactly what they have first. Then, we need to what you have, or what you want to do.

Don't let the rocker arm/shaft deal bother you. There are rockers out there. FABO member Rocket has really, REALLY nice shafts. I'd rather have the ductile iron rockers than anything Harland Sharp, but that's just me. The only real fault with the ductile rockers is they only come in 1.5 ratio. Other than that, bitchin' rockers.

You'll also need stands with offset holes. The shafts need offset holes as well.

Every engine needs pushrods so who cares?

There are intakes out there. I'll be seeking a used one this weekend at a swap meet. There around and relatively inexpensive.

I'm not a fan of the closed chambered heads. If you can get a piston builder to make the piston correctly for the open chambered head (I'll be trying that later this year so we will see how that goes...most of them have GM on the brain and you have to holler to get them to understand what you want, even before you send a drawing or fill out their form) then I like the OC head.

Find out the details and then you can make a better choice.
Click to expand...
 
Once again.......

I’d want to know the “part number”(the number on the box)of the heads you’re looking at(NOT the casting number)
Click to expand...

That same casting number (P4532693) was machined for several different configurations...... so it doesn’t really tell you what the head is.
There are different chamber volumes and 48* or 59* versions of W2’s made from that casting.

You either need the “part number”...... or know what you’re looking at.
 
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Seller can't tell me what the part number is . Taken out of boxes and trashed. Is there a way a novice can tell what head it is by looking at them. Already have me one of those "Holler" Dominator intakes. The difference between 48* and 59* is where Head angle or valve . I'm still trying to learn how to put a small block together for some 6. 20 1/8 mile passes. Thanks guys
 
Dart 67 sedan said:
Seller can't tell me what the part number is . Taken out of boxes and trashed. Is there a way a novice can tell what head it is by looking at them. Already have me one of those "Holler" Dominator intakes. The difference between 48* and 59* is where Head angle or valve . I'm still trying to learn how to put a small block together for some 6. 20 1/8 mile passes. Thanks guys
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The 48 and 59 degree issue is the difference in the angle of the lifter bores, relative to a vertical zero. IOW's, if the lifter bores point straight up and down, that would be a zero degree lifter bank angle.

If the lifter bank pointed totally horizontal, that would be a 90 degree lifter bank angle.

So...the 48 degree block has the lifters standing closer to vertical than the 59 degree block.

When you stand up the lifter banks (48 degree verses 59 degree) you also have to move the entire lifter bank closer to the cam.

Unless otherwise stated somewhere you don't have a 48 degree block. If the heads have open chambers, they are for a 59 degree lifter bank angle.

If they have closed chambers, it could go either way.

Can you post some pictures of the heads, including the chamber and such?
 
On the 48* w2 heads, the pushrod holes break through the intake mounting surface near the bottom.

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This is my first W2 heads. I will never do another W2 at this level. You are much better off with a different head altogether. I was much younger when I was working these heads.

I posted the stupid dog pictures because I like stupid dogs and stupid dog pictures.
 
If they are NOS and unused then as PRH mentioned in post 12 the notches in the intake face means 48 degree lifter angle.

The other difference with the 48 degree heads you need to know is that the valve angle is 15 degrees and not the standard small block 18 degrees. If your engine is already built or you have the pistons, while the 48 degree heads will bolt on and can work, the pistons you have now may not be ideal and you need to check valve clearances carefully.

another note is that if the casting date is after, I believe, January 2002, it can only be used with the T&D rocker system and pushrod oiling. The pedestals are milled further and attaching bolt is relocated away from the pedestals center. Also no deck oiling provision is drilled.
 
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Well I sprung for the nos w2 heads.posting pic hoping someone can tell what I have. Good bad or in between. Also looking for someone one the east coast to do the head work. If heads are worth doing. Hoping they are good heads to build.

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Well, they’re 59* and closed chamber.

First thing to do is see if they have the oil feed holes in rocker pedestal.
That will tell you which rockers you’ll need.
 
PRH said:
Well, they’re 59* and closed chamber.

First thing to do is see if they have the oil feed holes in rocker pedestal.
That will tell you which rockers you’ll need.
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I don't see the oil feed holes in the deck, so it looks like push Rod oiling.
 
Right...... forgot about the hole in the deck.

Which would mean it’s the ones that take the extra high dollar rockers.

I don’t know if older style rockers can somehow be retrofitted, but I believe the “correct” type of rockers for those heads use the bedplate and paired rockers.
 
I guessing good heads but not cheap heads. they always told me horsepower costs. Well only plan on going around once. SO oil thru push rods 5.140 long valves 640 plus lift cam . heavy springs offset rockers tti big buck headers. What am I missing? Besides a second job to pay for all this. oh yeah almost forgot heads need to be worked and a W2 intake. What am I missing ? Was just told nobody has stock valves for these heads. maybe also part time job
 
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After a little digging, it appears there’s at least 3 possible chamber volumes.
55, 65, 68.
I’d get one cc’d before I went any further.
 
The valves Mopar listed for those heads are just under 5.300” long.

T&D sells rockers for heads with 5.350” valves.
Just convert the guides to 11/32...... shouldn’t be any problem getting valves.
 
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