10's on $5,000 ?

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Top of this page - post 401. I thought I said the plan was still to buy a car when the harsh winter passes us??? When I posted the type of cars I was looking at, you kind of made it sound mission impossible?

All of my objections revolve around the idea of substituting one of your running driving Dusters for anything else you might come up with.

Not that it matters....... but I’m good with whatever vehicle you buy for this project.
 
According to me and I could be wrong a finished 440 diplomat or 5th Ave. could weigh around 3700>3800, 318 cars were 3500>3600 according to what I've seen....unless you already have a 440 which I don't know either way its going to have to be modded to put out around 570+fwhp to run 10.9@122, thats gonna need some good heads/cam and comp....you could lighten the cars some but its not going to make a huge difference, hows that going to happen, I reckon a hidden N20 kit is going in somewhere:D
 
Paid 35 bucks for my 67 Fastback in the late 70's, a former reservation chassis.
I still have the 35 dollar car. LOL
 
If 318will stumbles across some mid-70’s 4 door Dart for $400...... that’s great.

I’d have no problems at all with that.
 
All of my objections revolve around the idea of substituting one of your running driving Dusters for anything else you might come up with.

Not that it matters....... but I’m good with whatever vehicle you buy for this project.
I just want to know (not to drag this out...) how a running and driving duster is further ahead of the game than a running and driving diplomat.
Ok, lets say I use my '74 Duster.
  • rear end is a 7.25. Do i need to change it???
  • tranny is 904. Do i need to change it??
  • small block K frame. Do i need BB mounts??
  • has small block stock exhaust manifolds. Do I need headers??? $$$$ for abody BB headers, I might add.
  • Has small block radiator. Will it work???
  • Has drum brakes on all 4. Will they be sufficient???
Please enlighten me if I buy a good running diplomat how my Duster has an advantage in cost or anything else to get the BB swap/rear end swap done and go 10's???? Whether I put 4k into a Duster or take 5k, spend 1k on a diplomat and do the same swap.
 
I'd like to see 318 use his 318 Duster. take 5000 grand and get it done.
Drive that sucker to the track and clip off a high 10.
 
I'd like to see 318 use his 318 Duster. take 5000 grand and get it done.
Drive that sucker to the track and clip off a high 10.
I guess I missed the point of PHR on if I use one of my Dusters and put 4k that I ruined the original topic of 5k. I think he thinks the Duster is "much" easier, but I think it would be "much harder". Just on fitment and headers alone, the diplomat would be much farther ahead.
 
I'll give ya double.... 70 bucks cash!!
I bet you would. lol
I still remember the day when me and my sisters boy friend towed that sucker in the driveway.
Dad said, what in the hell are you going to do with that. lol
He knows now !
 
What I'd like explained is how are you going to make 580hp@the crank from a 440 that you don't have yet? in a heavy car within the budget and have it streetable cos thats what its going to take to run a 10.9 as I posted before....enlighten me someone.
 
I just want to know (not to drag this out...) how a running and driving duster is further ahead of the game than a running and driving diplomat.
Ok, lets say I use my '74 Duster.
  • rear end is a 7.25. Do i need to change it???
  • tranny is 904. Do i need to change it??
  • small block K frame. Do i need BB mounts??
  • has small block stock exhaust manifolds. Do I need headers??? $$$$ for abody BB headers, I might add.
  • Has small block radiator. Will it work???
  • Has drum brakes on all 4. Will they be sufficient???
Please enlighten me if I buy a good running diplomat how my Duster has an advantage in cost or anything else to get the BB swap/rear end swap done and go 10's???? Whether I put 4k into a Duster or take 5k, spend 1k on a diplomat and do the same swap.

In my mind, the main difference is you’d be starting with an unknown quantity....... that could easily suck up another several hundred dollars worth of non-go fast parts...... all of which would have to come out of the budget.
Plus, some of the possibly needed parts may not be the same stuff you’d have lying around.
It could easily need things like a caliper or rotor, shocks, brake hoses, a radiator that’s shot, etc.
That’s all extra $$$.

That’s the intangible part of starting with nothing but a fixed number dollars.

I feel it’s a clear advantage to be starting with something you know.

Again....... not my rodeo.
You’ll do it your way.
 
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Ok all, here is what kind of Duster 1200 bucks gets you in my parts. Doenst run, doesn't move, doesn't stop.
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In my mind, the main difference is you’d be starting with an unknown quantity....... that could easily suck up another several hundred dollars worth of non-go fast parts...... all of which would have to come out of the budget.

That’s the intangible part of starting with nothing but a fixed number dollars.

I feel it’s a clear advantage to be starting with something you know.

Again....... not my rodeo.
You’ll do it your way.
ok, got it. It's the unknown things like ball joints, etc that could doom the budget. Ok, I see
 
I guess I missed the point of PHR on if I use one of my Dusters and put 4k that I ruined the original topic of 5k. I think he thinks the Duster is "much" easier, but I think it would be "much harder". Just on fitment and headers alone, the diplomat would be much farther ahead.
Not sure I agree with the header statement. Rt side not a problem let side with ps. good luck.
 
What I'd like explained is how are you going to make 580hp@the crank from a 440 that you don't have yet? in a heavy car within the budget and have it streetable cos thats what its going to take to run a 10.9 as I posted before....enlighten me someone.
I put ? mark after the post "10's for 5k" Meaning I may not be able to do it. I've stated plenty early in this thread I may run a 12.20 and so be it. It will still be fun. If I wanted easy, none of us would have any fun.
 
Well perhaps I'm pouring cold water on this thread but I cannot see it happening for 5k, would be cool if it happened of course, its good to bench race some but being realistic, not a chance, even if its a 440 Duster which has a better chance, the 1970 Roadkill 440 transplant Duster only ran 12.39@113, was probably light and with some issues sorted it could've gone 11.8>9's perhaps? and that had good heads, a cam, 4.10's/tyres that hooked...
 
I like the dual shifters in that “project” Duster.

For the record....... there hasn’t been a car made that I want bad enough to try and resurrect from a pile like that.
 
here is another with more hope, but still hasn't moved since 1987 so we know all brake components need replaced right from the git-go. 2500 and says price is firm.
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For the record....... there hasn’t been a car made that I want bad enough to try and resurrect from a pile like that.
Agree 100%. just showing what i get for my money here, and why I'm looking to buy a FMJ or B body 4 door from 72-87
 
I don’t need a popular, classic body style that bad.

For a project without strict budget constraints(but still be something you’re trying to build as cheaply as feasible)...... where 10’s(or damn close to it) was the goal, and be a Mopar powered Mopar...... starting with nothing..... I’d go with a stroker SB in an early Dakota.
 
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I don’t need a popular, classic body style that bad.

For a project without strict budget constraints...... where 10’s(or damn close to it) was the goal, and be a Mopar powered Mopar...... starting with nothing..... I’d go the stroker SB in an early Dakota.
considering the early Dakota too....
 
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