Floor pan replacement...

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Brad Dean

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Location
Wahoo, Nebraska
I am on a very limited budget for my restore of a 1975 Plymouth Duster. I have access to an auto body scrap metal bin. What are some of the draw backs to replacing the front floor pans on my Duster with scrapped sheet metal. That would make my cost for replacement of the floor pans, as my time effort, and welding wire.
 
I am on a very limited budget for my restore of a 1975 Plymouth Duster. I have access to an auto body scrap metal bin. What are some of the draw backs to replacing the front floor pans on my Duster with scrapped sheet metal. That would make my cost for replacement of the floor pans, as my time effort, and welding wire.
Bite the bullet and get patch panels or if all your interested in is not looking at the ground scrap sheet metal.
 
Buy the first style in the first link shown below . Not the second style with the slotted/cut corners they do not fit properly and are scrap. I use the fronts all the time unless I am replacing the whole floor.

These

1967-76 CHRYSLER A-BODY LH/RH FRONT FLOOR PANS - CLASSIC REPRO | eBay

Not These

1967 1968 1969 1970-1976 DART DUSTER VALIANT SCAMP FRONT FLOOR PANS | eBay


Lay them in and trace them. leave 1/2 inch on floor for overlap. Clean the old floor off the front seam and off rockers and they set right in. Its ashame your not closer I do them for $500 floors included.

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Take all the metal to the scrap yard and use the money to buy panels.
 
I am on a very limited budget for my restore of a 1975 Plymouth Duster. I have access to an auto body scrap metal bin. What are some of the draw backs to replacing the front floor pans on my Duster with scrapped sheet metal. That would make my cost for replacement of the floor pans, as my time effort, and welding wire.

Biggest draw backs of using scrap sheet metal is going to be your time, effort, and welding wire. It will take a ton more time to make patches and get them to fit using scrapped sheet metal than if you use a pre-made replacement or patch. The replacement panels weld in with spot welds like the originals. Home made patches won't follow all the stock panel shapes, so you'll have to run a lot more beads than spots. I have done both, I've made patches out of plain old sheet stock and I've installed full replacement panels. Even small patches take a lot longer than a large replacement panel because of the amount of welding and shaping that has to be done.

Next in line would be the repair looking original. Obviously your scrap sheet will not have the same stampings as the originals. On a '75 this is less of a concern, it would be a bigger draw back if the car was worth more in original form. But consider that if you ever sell the car to a well versed buyer they will figure out the repair was done with scrap sheet and not an OE stamped replacement, which could hurt value. It's like looking at a Mopar with the engine compartment painted black instead of body color. It doesn't hurt the function any, but it raises a flag- "well if they did that, what else did they do?"

And don't forget that welding gas and wire cost money too.

Buy the first style in the first link shown below . Not the second style with the slotted/cut corners they do not fit properly and are scrap. I use the fronts all the time unless I am replacing the whole floor.

These

1967-76 CHRYSLER A-BODY LH/RH FRONT FLOOR PANS - CLASSIC REPRO | eBay

Not These

1967 1968 1969 1970-1976 DART DUSTER VALIANT SCAMP FRONT FLOOR PANS | eBay


Lay them in and trace them. leave 1/2 inch on floor for overlap. Clean the old floor off the front seam and off rockers and they set right in. Its ashame your not closer I do them for $500 floors included.

View attachment 1715460210

View attachment 1715460211

View attachment 1715460212

View attachment 1715460217

View attachment 1715460218

This is a perfect example. Even with the OE stamped panel replacements that fit well, it's arguable that replacing the whole pan is easier. Look at how much weld is there! Just to replace the front footwells like this you have to remove about 30-40% of the spot welds that you'd need to remove the entire floor pan, even though you're probably only replacing 20% or less of the metal in the floor. And then you have to do a significant amount of cutting, followed by a bunch of long continuous weld beads.

For me this is the breakover point. If I have to replace any more metal in the floor pan than what is shown here, I'd do the whole floor using an AMD replacement. Yes, it's more expensive for the whole thing. But all it takes to remove is a spot weld cutter, and all it takes to reinstall is spot welds. And when you're done the whole panel is brand new and rust free. You spend a lot of time running long continuous beads on sheet metal, use a lot more gas, and a lot more wire. I understand being "money poor" and "time rich", but there's always a breakover. If it takes years to finish you might have been better off saving longer and spending less time on it.

1974 PLYMOUTH DUSTER Auto Metal Direct Front Floor Pans 400-1267
 
I did patchwork all over my car with pieces of flat metal I bent to shape. With one exception.... Just too involved to make a good floorpan from scratch. Got mine from Yearone. Worth every penny.:thumbsup:

19B7037D-13A5-42A6-969C-63DC95362AD3.jpeg
 
Just get the panels. Back in the bad old days we all had cars that got old traffic signs and the like pop riveted into the floors, just so we wouldn't have to "Flintstone" it because there were no panels available. Those days are gone. Save up the money and do it right. You might feel the need to get by on the cheap right now, but if you ever "up your game" on your car, you'll have to tear it out and redo it all over again. And you'll be cussing yourself out the whole time. Plus you will have lost all your reference points for the re-install... The only thing worse than having to invest the time and money in the job is having to do it twice. Just do it once, do it right, and do your best.
 
Buy the first style in the first link shown below . Not the second style with the slotted/cut corners they do not fit properly and are scrap. I use the fronts all the time unless I am replacing the whole floor.

These

1967-76 CHRYSLER A-BODY LH/RH FRONT FLOOR PANS - CLASSIC REPRO | eBay

Not These

1967 1968 1969 1970-1976 DART DUSTER VALIANT SCAMP FRONT FLOOR PANS | eBay


Lay them in and trace them. leave 1/2 inch on floor for overlap. Clean the old floor off the front seam and off rockers and they set right in. Its ashame your not closer I do them for $500 floors included.

View attachment 1715460210

View attachment 1715460211

View attachment 1715460212

View attachment 1715460217

I tried to get pans from them for my 65 Barracuda...They didn't have them. Wish they did. I got mine from ABS, the split ones...I'm happy with them.
 
All good advice.
If your time is worth anything at all,to try and save a couple hundred,scrimp somewhere else.
Well worth the money,at my shop rate that’s 2.5 hours for the pans. Bet its double the time to shape your own,if you have the tools.
 
Hell I bought a driver side panel just to get the auto tunnel part for my TKO swap. Totally worth it. Unless you have small areas that just need a patch then yeah but if you have full on Fred Flintstone floor boards then get the biggest patch you can find. Buy a spot weld drill bit, Pneumatic nibbler, and a flanging tool and your set.
 
Pics of what you are trying to fix is the first step. You may not need a full pan.. or you may need a pan, rails, cross members..
Pics!
 
Buy the first style in the first link shown below . Not the second style with the slotted/cut corners they do not fit properly and are scrap. I use the fronts all the time unless I am replacing the whole floor.
These
1967-76 CHRYSLER A-BODY LH/RH FRONT FLOOR PANS - CLASSIC REPRO | eBay
Not These
1967 1968 1969 1970-1976 DART DUSTER VALIANT SCAMP FRONT FLOOR PANS | eBay
I agree with Steve. Unfortunately, I have a pair of the "Not These" for my 74 Dart Sport. I've had them a couple years, I'd have to look up where I got them. Because they don't even come close to looking right, I've been avoiding installing them like the plague. I'll be buying "these", and using the others for rust patches. :BangHead:
 
Buy the first style in the first link shown below . Not the second style with the slotted/cut corners they do not fit properly and are scrap. I use the fronts all the time unless I am replacing the whole floor.

These

1967-76 CHRYSLER A-BODY LH/RH FRONT FLOOR PANS - CLASSIC REPRO | eBay

Not These

1967 1968 1969 1970-1976 DART DUSTER VALIANT SCAMP FRONT FLOOR PANS | eBay
I agree with Steve. Unfortunately, I have a pair of the "Not These" for my 74 Dart Sport. I've had them a couple years, I'd have to look up where I got them. Because they don't even come close to looking right, I've been avoiding installing them like the plague. I'll be buying "these", and using the others for rust patches. :BangHead:
 
Thanks for all the reply's. I will take everyone's advise and save the money for the patch panels. I will look at whether to get the whole floor or split. When I get to that part of the restore I will post the pics in "Member Restorations".
This is such a great community. So many people willing to take their valuable time and respond and share their knowledge and experience.
 
Buy the first style in the first link shown below . Not the second style with the slotted/cut corners they do not fit properly and are scrap. I use the fronts all the time unless I am replacing the whole floor.

These

1967-76 CHRYSLER A-BODY LH/RH FRONT FLOOR PANS - CLASSIC REPRO | eBay

Not These

1967 1968 1969 1970-1976 DART DUSTER VALIANT SCAMP FRONT FLOOR PANS | eBay


Lay them in and trace them. leave 1/2 inch on floor for overlap. Clean the old floor off the front seam and off rockers and they set right in. Its ashame your not closer I do them for $500 floors included.

View attachment 1715460210

View attachment 1715460211

View attachment 1715460212

View attachment 1715460217

View attachment 1715460218
Great photos, I used them to answer a lot of my questions in this restore, not just the floor panels.
 
Biggest draw backs of using scrap sheet metal is going to be your time, effort, and welding wire. It will take a ton more time to make patches and get them to fit using scrapped sheet metal than if you use a pre-made replacement or patch. The replacement panels weld in with spot welds like the originals. Home made patches won't follow all the stock panel shapes, so you'll have to run a lot more beads than spots. I have done both, I've made patches out of plain old sheet stock and I've installed full replacement panels. Even small patches take a lot longer than a large replacement panel because of the amount of welding and shaping that has to be done.

Next in line would be the repair looking original. Obviously your scrap sheet will not have the same stampings as the originals. On a '75 this is less of a concern, it would be a bigger draw back if the car was worth more in original form. But consider that if you ever sell the car to a well versed buyer they will figure out the repair was done with scrap sheet and not an OE stamped replacement, which could hurt value. It's like looking at a Mopar with the engine compartment painted black instead of body color. It doesn't hurt the function any, but it raises a flag- "well if they did that, what else did they do?"

And don't forget that welding gas and wire cost money too.



This is a perfect example. Even with the OE stamped panel replacements that fit well, it's arguable that replacing the whole pan is easier. Look at how much weld is there! Just to replace the front footwells like this you have to remove about 30-40% of the spot welds that you'd need to remove the entire floor pan, even though you're probably only replacing 20% or less of the metal in the floor. And then you have to do a significant amount of cutting, followed by a bunch of long continuous weld beads.

For me this is the breakover point. If I have to replace any more metal in the floor pan than what is shown here, I'd do the whole floor using an AMD replacement. Yes, it's more expensive for the whole thing. But all it takes to remove is a spot weld cutter, and all it takes to reinstall is spot welds. And when you're done the whole panel is brand new and rust free. You spend a lot of time running long continuous beads on sheet metal, use a lot more gas, and a lot more wire. I understand being "money poor" and "time rich", but there's always a breakover. If it takes years to finish you might have been better off saving longer and spending less time on it.

1974 PLYMOUTH DUSTER Auto Metal Direct Front Floor Pans 400-1267
^^^ This!
My '69 Cuda had the drivers side front floor already cut, and a replacement panel laying over the hole. Looking at the rest of the floor, the pass side is weak, and there's baseball size holes on the back corners. I have to replace the pass side front anyway (and the torsion member, and rails, and..?). By the time I buy another small front pass side piece, and spend hours welding it in (still learning that little skill!), I'd be far ahead buying a whole new pan, time wise, and then I know it's all good. Sucks to have to shell out the $$ for that, but it makes far more sense to wait a little longer and do it right (to me anyway).
 
Some cars you have to take the complete interior, windshield and steering wheel out to get that whole floor pan in. And some cars usually only need the front pans due to the wiper or windshield leaking. You have to approach every job differently. What it comes down to is cost for the customer. Front pans the total is usually $500 for both sides with the pans. Complete floor is around $2000 and higher with the floor. Do the math.
 
I tried to get pans from them for my 65 Barracuda...They didn't have them. Wish they did. I got mine from ABS, the split ones...I'm happy with them.

I bought the split ones off ebay , not knowing any better. Was a little disappointed w/ them , but after getting the floor cut out right , its no big deal to shape and weld them the way you want them. Of course I`m not anywhere near factory correct on anything, I want mine to look somewhat stock like , and run like a race car-------
They will be covered up with carpet , and sealed on the underside anyway ?
 
This info is turning out to be valuable for me too...

Getting ready to do a bucket seat swap and when pulling back the carpets, I discovered that the rear section of the passenger side foot well is getting pretty soft. The whole floor is in nice shape with the original paint in tact...except for this one spot I can't complain since this car sat outside (under a cover) for 10+ years. At this point, the car lives in doors and will basically never see wet roads if I can help it...so I'd like to think that it's not rapidly deteriorating but I suppose it needs to be done sooner rather than later.

What kind of a range does a reputable shop usually charge for this kind of job?
 
I did patchwork all over my car with pieces of flat metal I bent to shape. With one exception.... Just too involved to make a good floorpan from scratch. Got mine from Yearone. Worth every penny.:thumbsup:

View attachment 1715460259

Doesn`t look any diff. than the $67 ones I got on ebay 9 yrs ago , w/ the exception of a weld in the corner /by the accel. pedal . Who cares , long as they are strong , welded well and sealed , their covered w/ carpet on the top and sealer on the bottom .---------JMO
 
This info is turning out to be valuable for me too...

Getting ready to do a bucket seat swap and when pulling back the carpets, I discovered that the rear section of the passenger side foot well is getting pretty soft. The whole floor is in nice shape with the original paint in tact...except for this one spot I can't complain since this car sat outside (under a cover) for 10+ years. At this point, the car lives in doors and will basically never see wet roads if I can help it...so I'd like to think that it's not rapidly deteriorating but I suppose it needs to be done sooner rather than later.

What kind of a range does a reputable shop usually charge for this kind of job?

I don't like POR15 but this seems like the perfect use for it. I'd just just cover the area in POR15 on top and on bottom and leave it alone. It'll keep it from deteriorating to the point where you start getting holes in the metal.

If it's bugging you to the point where you don't want to move forward without replacing it....I've also heard quotes of about $700 to do similar sized sheet metal replacements.
 
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