Steering Wheel Lock Plate

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jonn6464

jonn6464

1970 Duster
Joined
Mar 29, 2017
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Location
Weatherford, TX
I am installing a keyless push button start as a part of my restoration. 1970 Duster, floor shift, power steering. I am debating whether or not to remove the ignition cylinder (where the key goes) all together, since I won't need it. I'll make the necessary cosmetic alterations to fill in the hole.

If I do that, will I also need to remove the steering shaft lock plate (thing that kind of looks like a mini saw blade) to avoid having the steering wheel lock and no way to release it?

The push button start system will feed directly to the corresponding wires on the American Autowire harness, so I'm going with the assumption that I won't need the wiring from the ignition switch in the steering column.

Is there something incorrect about this?

Thank you for the help.
 
I agree, you can leave the round plate and just remove the catch. But...you have to remove the round plate to get to the two screws to remove the catch. I cant think of any reason you would need to put any of it back in.
 
Okie dokie, you guys. How does one remove said steering wheel lock plate. I have tried all manner of violent means to remove the roll pin that secures this plate to the column. Don't care about saving the 3/16-inch diameter roll pin. I can get another at Lowe's.
 
2 Darts said:
Okie dokie, you guys. How does one remove said steering wheel lock plate. I have tried all manner of violent means to remove the roll pin that secures this plate to the column. Don't care about saving the 3/16-inch diameter roll pin. I can get another at Lowe's.
Click to expand...
That pin is tapered. With wheel positioned up (or master spline up) the pin drives out toward drivers door glass.
 
2 Darts said:
Okie dokie, you guys. How does one remove said steering wheel lock plate. I have tried all manner of violent means to remove the roll pin that secures this plate to the column. Don't care about saving the 3/16-inch diameter roll pin. I can get another at Lowe's.
Click to expand...

Agree with RedFish, you may need to attack the pin from the other direction. Really doesn't take too much force. You should be able to pop it out with a hammer and punch. Just to confirm... you have removed the little collar that hides the pin, yes?
 
jonn6464 said:
Agree with RedFish, you may need to attack the pin from the other direction. Really doesn't take too much force. You should be able to pop it out with a hammer and punch. Just to confirm... you have removed the little collar that hides the pin, yes?
Click to expand...
Removed collar. pin is fully exposed. It appears to be rusted in place. Looks like its time to roll our a 3/16" bit with approximately an 8" shank.
 
I dont know how hard this pin steel is. I've never had issue with this pin either. I would probably pull the column and take it to the workbench to drive or press the pin out. Good luck with it.
 
2 Darts said:
Removed collar. pin is fully exposed. It appears to be rusted in place. Looks like its time to roll our a 3/16" bit with approximately an 8" shank.
Click to expand...

Grab a torch and put some heat on it, and give it a squirt of penetrating oil. WD-40 has some in a spray can. If that doesn't work, grab your drill...
 
RedFish said:
That pin is tapered. With wheel positioned up (or master spline up) the pin drives out toward drivers door glass.
Click to expand...

jonn6464 said:
Grab a torch and put some heat on it, and give it a squirt of penetrating oil. WD-40 has some in a spray can. If that doesn't work, grab your drill...
Click to expand...
Thanks to jonno6464:thankyou: and Redfish :thankyou:(and Harbor Freight), the Pin is OUT . :thumbsup:
Dripped the last precious few drops of KROIL (best penetrating oil I know of) I had, bought a full set of punches, add in my BFH and drove it :BangHead:toward toward the door glass.

Thanks also for letting me hijack the thread, too.

UNSOLICITED TESTIMONIAL

I am not a regular visitor to Harbor Freight. In addition to the 8 different size punches (with a Lifetime Warranty) I also scored a 12 inch long shank 3/16" diameter twist drill bit, got a free light, paying about $10 for the lot of it. Most of the stuff in the store is Chinese sourced. If I want # 1 quality, a tool I plan to keep, I will probably not look too hard at HF. However, if I need something specialized, fast and cheap, I may be taking a look. [I didn't see any LH twist drill bits in there. I use them in lieu of an EZ-Out in some circumstances.]
 
2 Darts said:
Thanks to jonno6464:thankyou: and Redfish :thankyou:(and Harbor Freight), the Pin is OUT . :thumbsup:
Dripped the last precious few drops of KROIL (best penetrating oil I know of) I had, bought a full set of punches, add in my BFH and drove it :BangHead:toward toward the door glass.

Thanks also for letting me hijack the thread, too.

UNSOLICITED TESTIMONIAL

I am not a regular visitor to Harbor Freight. In addition to the 8 different size punches (with a Lifetime Warranty) I also scored a 12 inch long shank 3/16" diameter twist drill bit, got a free light, paying about $10 for the lot of it. Most of the stuff in the store is Chinese sourced. If I want # 1 quality, a tool I plan to keep, I will probably not look too hard at HF. However, if I need something specialized, fast and cheap, I may be taking a look. [I didn't see any LH twist drill bits in there. I use them in lieu of an EZ-Out in some circumstances.]
Click to expand...

Cool man, good to hear! It's funny how something so small can give such a huge sense of accomplishment when it goes right.
Not sure what your plans are, but if you're doing any steering column resto or upgrading, make sure you check out Detroit Muscle Technologies. Awesome people to deal with, great service, and good products. I am not affiliated with them in any way, just a satisfied customer passing on my recommendation.

Mopar - Axle, Steering, Suspension related - Detroit Muscle Technologies, LLC
 
jonn6464 said:
Cool man, good to hear! It's funny how something so small can give such a huge sense of accomplishment when it goes right.
Not sure what your plans are, but if you're doing any steering column resto or upgrading, make sure you check out Detroit Muscle Technologies. Awesome people to deal with, great service, and good products. I am not affiliated with them in any way, just a satisfied customer passing on my recommendation.

Mopar - Axle, Steering, Suspension related - Detroit Muscle Technologies, LLC
Click to expand...

Thanks for the recommendation. Doing a double replacement; the ignition lock, which will match the keys I have for everything else on the car, and putting on an original Tuff wheel. I am keeping a log of what is going on with this car in "Member Restorations" area on FABO.
 
Hi everyone! just to confirm. to properly punch the pin out.
Are you guys directed downwards? punching the pin from the top near the direction of the window? or underneath going up towards the window.
 
With the master spline up, pin is positioned left to right. Drives out toward the door glass
 
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