Hmmmm. The wheels in my head are spinning again

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pittsburghracer

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I have two 360 blocks that need the lifter gallery’s tubed. Now I have no issues doing this on a stock 360 block but both of these have already been machined. Bad things can happen as we all know when enlarging a hole 10 inched in a stock cast iron block. Messing up a 50.00 block wouldn’t kill me but 1000.00 block would. Well while looking for my long 5/8 drill bit for the soft 1/2 (5/8 outside dia) house water line I usually use I grabbed a piece of my K&S tubing I keep handy. Wow is this a nice fit. A fast ream with my 9/16 drill bit and tap it in. Only issue I see is it is only .014 thick. I have the Direct Connection peening tool so I’m not worried about tearing it. What do you guys think about this. I’m thinking I’m going to give it a go.
 
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If it gets screwed up, could you not just re drill it out?
 
Besides the tearing while running the peen tool? What issue are you thinking about? Sorry, I feel like I’m missing some.
 
Yes easily. And I’m thinking once in place what could happen honestly. This would make this job so much easier for everyone if it works.

From the title:

"The wheels in my head are spinning again"

I thought that I smelled smoke.... :lol: :poke:
 
Yes easily. And I’m thinking once in place what could happen honestly. This would make this job so much easier for everyone if it works.

Do you have another cheap spare block that you can use to test it out first???

I have an old rusty 273 block that I use to practice cam bearings on...
 
That will work just fine. I stopped using press fit years ago. Once you peen it, that thing ain't going anywhere.

I also learned something years ago. After peening I always take a paper roll and just lightly buff the tube so the lifter never rubs on it. That way, it can never wear a hole in it.

I had a couple of lifter bores get holes in them. I think the edge of a junk set of lifters was rubbing on the tube and put holes in it.

After replacing the tube I started buffing the tube down so nothing can grab it.
 
Why is tubbing is necessary?


If you ever prime the oil system with the intake off and see all that good oil flushing out of the lifter bores around the roller lifters (instead of going to the bearings) you will want tubes too. For now on seeing what I saw even my solid lifter cams builds get tubed.
 
Besides the tearing while running the peen tool? What issue are you thinking about? Sorry, I feel like I’m missing some.


Like yellow rose said the lifter does touch the tubing slightly. I would just like it to be a little thicker. I found some .032 thick 9/16 but for as many blocks as I do I’m not paying over 50.00 for a 3 foot length. 6 foot heck ya, but not 3 foot.
 
My son Did them all the time at the shop where he worked. He just bought a fixture for the block for small block mopars from a guy in Erie Pa. I guess I'm lucky he won't charge me. Hope he don't see your post. That is a good reason to use a tube. LOL
 
I did my 360 block years ago, because the machine shop I was going to didn't want to do it. I got a Ed Hamburger kit, it was a piece of 9/16 steel tubing, and the tool to peen it. Had to buy a 9/16 drill, an have it lengthen. So 9/16 outside diameter will work
 
And this is the tube your looking at to use instead of the other one posted


I was just checking around to see what else I could find. I’m sure the K&S tubing will work just fine. I will run my long 9/16 drill bit in there just to clean up some casting.

Any tip in to the project at hand?

Not sure what you mean with this question.
 
Yup,which is why I am happy making bankk elsewhere. J.Rob

I quoted him because I didn’t understand what he was asking. I’ll answer almost anything unlike some guys that are afraid they may lose a chance of making a buck.


Any tip in the project at hand. Help me out with this question.
 

I have never done this , or seen it done, and wish I had done it before putting my 505 together.
That being said , I`d think twice about using rigid brass , it has a tendancy to crack badly if bent . The stainless 1/2" looks like it would be too hard to me . I plumbed for 54ish yrs and never used a piece of brass tubing on anything. ---??? Copper would be my first choice, and you can get hard copper tubing in the same size as what ur talking about ,
= refrigeration copper . And difF thicknesses , L M N K ECT.
 
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