Hmmmm. The wheels in my head are spinning again

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rumblefish360 said:
The article seems incomplete...
I can not seem to find a page two.
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That’s only info carried over from the old Mopar Engine books we all bought 30 years ago.
 
Well I slept on it and made some calls this morning. Then I called Grainger and ordered the stainless tubing I posted above that is a little thicker than the brass. Two 3 foot pieces will be here from Ohio tomorrow so that should be enough for the two machined blocks I have here. 72.50 shipped to my door so for 36.00 a block it will save me from drilling and risk harming my machined blocks.
 
pittsburghracer said:
View attachment 1715461335 View attachment 1715461336 I have two 360 blocks that need the lifter gallery’s tubed. Now I have no issues doing this on a stock 360 block but both of these have already been machined. Bad things can happen as we all know when enlarging a hole 10 inched in a stock cast iron block. Messing up a 50.00 block wouldn’t kill me but 1000.00 block would. Well while looking for my long 5/8 drill bit for the soft 1/2 (5/8 outside dia) house water line I usually use I grabbed a piece of my K&S tubing I keep handy. Wow is this a nice fit. A fast ream with my 9/16 drill bit and tap it in. Only issue I see is it is only .014 thick. I have the Direct Connection peening tool so I’m not worried about tearing it. What do you guys think about this. I’m thinking I’m going to give it a go.
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I was thinking the same thing awhile back.
I don’t like the idea of risking drilling a race block, or even a ready to go machined block.
Has to be some tubing that fits, that would solve the problem without the risk of drilling and breaking off, or worse.
Awesome
 
I'd be concerned with the hardness of stainless, or brass, over copper. I believe they used soft copper tube because it will conform to the bore when peened easily. You might want to test the stainless before you commit to putting it in the block.
 
Demonic said:
I'd be concerned with the hardness of stainless, or brass, over copper. I believe they used soft copper tube because it will conform to the bore when peened easily. You might want to test the stainless before you commit to putting it in the block.
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This is only .028 thick so I should be ok peening it with my old Direct Connection tool. I worked with and ran a lot of Stainless grease lines during my 33 years as a Millwright in a steel mill. We shall know very soon if this works and it should help a lot of guys out facing the same issue.
 
Demonic said:
I'd be concerned with the hardness of stainless, or brass, over copper. I believe they used soft copper tube because it will conform to the bore when peened easily. You might want to test the stainless before you commit to putting it in the block.
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304 is a work hardening alloy, but unless taken to a 'full hard' condition it tends to be pretty malleable. The material he listed states that it is intended to be bent, so I doubt it's 'full hard' - probably dead soft. It should be OK since the peening isn't moving much material and doesn't require sharp forms.
 
Yes yes yes, but the article is slightly different in showing, but not exactly explaining the plug in the main. I get how it is done but the article as I viewed it seemed to stop short of it all.

I do realize the plug in the main is the same passage way that is described in the MP books up top driver side they suggest to counter sink a female Allen plug into after you tap it to accept it.

What size Allen plug they would use in the main and proper tap size etc... was not mentioned. I do not see a page two to click on.
pittsburghracer said:
View attachment 1715461595


That’s only info carried over from the old Mopar Engine books we all bought 30 years ago.
Click to expand...
 
PBR, I'm confused as to why you are not wanting to ream the gallery? Am I missing something?

I did my X block a few years back and I'm going to do my R block in a couple of months. Is there something I need to know about the R blocks I'm not knowing???

TIA.
 
yellow rose said:
PBR, I'm confused as to why you are not wanting to ream the gallery? Am I missing something?

I did my X block a few years back and I'm going to do my R block in a couple of months. Is there something I need to know about the R blocks I'm not knowing???

TIA.
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Reaming a 1/16 inch of metal is time consuming and I don’t have the needed ream. I have drilled several of these to 5/8 inch but my long 5/8 drill bit is pretty dull. Like I said earlier if these two blocks weren’t already machined I would just drill it but if this works out it will be my way of doing for now on. Trust me this will be a win win if it works. I will take me 30 minutes or less to tube a block, tap for plugs, and drill new oiling holes through the tubing.
 
I may be wrong but I don’t think your R block will need tubed. I think they addressed that issue. I think.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Yes yes yes, but the article is slightly different in showing, but not exactly explaining the plug in the main. I get how it is done but the article as I viewed it seemed to stop short of it all.

I do realize the plug in the main is the same passage way that is described in the MP books up top driver side they suggest to counter sink a female Allen plug into after you tap it to accept it.

What size Allen plug they would use in the main and proper tap size etc... was not mentioned. I do not see a page two to click on.
Click to expand...


I don’t tap and block my oil at the main. I tap the gallery opposite of the tubed gallery with a set screw under the cam thrust plate to block oil off on that side. I restrict my oil to the rocker gear under my rocker shafts so if I want to go up or down on oil supply I can easily do so.
 
pittsburghracer said:
I don’t tap and block my oil at the main. I tap the gallery opposite of the tubed gallery with a set screw under the cam thrust plate to block oil off on that side. I restrict my oil to the rocker gear under my rocker shafts so if I want to go up or down on oil supply I can easily do so.
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Right! Gotcha, like the MP book outlines. Your oil restriction is in the head with a set screw that you predrilled. IIRC, it is drilled at .060? I remember the post and picture(s.)

I gotta say, that was pretty cool and informative. I’ve seen a few blocks tapped for the set screw for ether blocking or restricted oil flow like you do it in the head.
I like the head better since it is aluminum. It’s a lot easier to do at home and cheap.
 
yellow rose said:
PBR, I'm confused as to why you are not wanting to ream the gallery? Am I missing something?

I did my X block a few years back and I'm going to do my R block in a couple of months. Is there something I need to know about the R blocks I'm not knowing???

TIA.
Click to expand...
I think he is messing with a stock block and the”R” block is as he said may be... already addressed? I never owned one.
 
pittsburghracer said:
I may be wrong but I don’t think your R block will need tubed. I think they addressed that issue. I think.
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I'd tell you for sure but I don't think it is on this generation of block. I'll revisit this at the end of February when I get back over to the shop where I'm building this pig.

I can verify if it's fixed or not on this early version.
 
yellow rose said:
I'd tell you for sure but I don't think it is on this generation of block. I'll revisit this at the end of February when I get back over to the shop where I'm building this pig.

I can verify if it's fixed or not on this early version.
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I’m not a high rpm guy and only shifted my R3 block 422 at 7000 rpm for 3 years and 6800 last year. I’m curious to see what the bearings look like in it.
 
pittsburghracer said:
This is only .028 thick so I should be ok peening it with my old Direct Connection tool. I worked with and ran a lot of Stainless grease lines during my 33 years as a Millwright in a steel mill. We shall know very soon if this works and it should help a lot of guys out facing the same issue.
Click to expand...
I would slide a piece into a junk block back to the first lifter bore and try peening it first. Depending on the stainless It may be hard to peen. Just a thought of concern. I remember seeing copper used not anything else.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I would slide a piece into a junk block back to the first lifter bore and try peening it first. Depending on the stainless It may be hard to peen. Just a thought of concern. I remember seeing copper used not anything else.
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The ones that came in the Direct Connection kit were steel. I bought one 35-38 years ago.
 
I'll be tubing my race block after it comes back from the machine shop...
Still waiting for pistons.
 
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Ok it’s been awhile so I give a small update. Let’s start out by saying I wouldn’t recommend using the 9/16 tubing unless you have LOTS of patients, tools, and a hole in your head. Would I do it again? Probably because and only because I have one more machined block sitting here. When I start out with a fresh unmachined block it’s getting drilled out to 5/8 and getting the 1/2 inch inside diameter soft copper pipe I have sitting here for this job. The stainless is slightly oversized and very hard to work with. Four lifter bores are fitted with four more to go.
 
pittsburghracer said:
View attachment 1715464506 View attachment 1715464507 Ok it’s been awhile so I give a small update. Let’s start out by saying I wouldn’t recommend using the 9/16 tubing unless you have LOTS of patients, tools, and a hole in your head. Would I do it again? Probably because and only because I have one more machined block sitting here. When I start out with a fresh unmachined block it’s getting drilled out to 5/8 and getting the 1/2 inch inside diameter soft copper pipe I have sitting here for this job. The stainless is slightly oversized and very hard to work with. Four lifter bores are fitted with four more to go.
Click to expand...



What made this installation so difficult? I figured this would go much easier.
 
yellow rose said:
What made this installation so difficult? I figured this would go much easier.
Click to expand...


The stainless as I said was on the heavy side, size wise. I drilled it with my long 9/16 drill bit but I really needed a hone to open it up a touch more. The stainless was way harder to peen too. I ended up welding an extension on to my Dirrect Connection peening tool to get me above the deck to make it was easier to work in and out. Harder in some ways easier in others. I’m not finished thinking on this project.
 
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