Engine build on the brain
Is there a problem with leaving the piston in the hole .020 opposed to a dish piston ? Also what is more critical a dynamic above 8 or cylinder pressure above 165?
The car is 3200 with me in it(guessing), 4spd(may go to o/d) ,any gear needed, 30" rear tire
You're gonna have to choose; either automatic OR 4speed, cuz the builds between them are different.
With a 4-speed and on the street, the engine, in first gear,is married to the road ; That is to say, there is no fluid coupling and no TM (Torque Multiplication) to take advantage of.
My experience with the 292/108 cam and 11/1 Scr, showed me that at low rpm and therefore low speed, and the generally accepted but in my opinion, excessive timing, the engine firing pulses are so powerful that the car starts acting like a bucking bronco. And perhaps your minimum driving speed, before having to toe the clutch will be excessively high. With an auto, you don't have this problem.
Lemmee explain;
with 30" tires, and any gear, as stated above, and with something like 18* idle timing, and say you somehow get the transfer slots set right, and manage to get the idle speed down to 800rpm.
Ok then 800 rpm with say 4.30s, a 2.66 low gear,and 30s is......6.24 mph. But it is not likely that the rpm in gear idling down the road, will still be 800. Lets say it drops to 700. Then the speed will be 5.46mph.
So firstly, no person can march in a parade at 5.46mph, and you don't want to be toeing the clutch for an hour. Am I right?
Secondly, if you idle it any slower, the bucking bronco comes out. But to get down to 4 mph with a 700 rpm in-gear idle requires 5.87 gears. To keep the 4.30s and hit 4mph, requires an in-gear idle of 512rpm. That will never happen, so
Thirdly, forget parading.
Fourthly, with 18* of idle-timing, I really doubt you can get your transfer slots set right, and still have a normal idle down around 800rpm. And you need to be up close to that, for your oilpump to keep everything lubed up.
So then, IMO, there is no good reason to run 18*; it just wreaks havoc with the low speed operation.
So how did I cure my 292 cam? I didn't, I took it out and got rid of it as fast as I could.
But this same problem persisted with the 276/286/110 that I now run..... and here's my cure.
I had to reduce my road speed, and reduce my Idle timing.
Since I like 3.55s, I wasn't gonna sacrifice those, but my tires are just 27s. This compares to your 30s with 3.91s. I got me a Commando box with a 3.09low in it. So in first gear this now translates to 3.09x3.55x(24/27)= a 9.75 starter gear, corrected to a 24" tire with a 1ft radius. This compares to your 2.66x4.30x24/30=9.15 corrected also to a 24" tire. In other words your 4.30/30 combo will feel like 27s would with 3.33 gears.
The next thing I did was set my idle timing down to 14*. This allowed the transfers to sync up at 700rpm.
And then I got me a dash-mounted, dial-back, timing device with a range of 15 degrees.
So now I can get that 276 cam to idle down to 550 rpm in gear,cranked down to 5* idle-timing, and it pulls itself smoothly at 4 mph. I'm depending on the HV oilpump to keep the rods alive, and I don't hammer the gas pedal at that rpm. When I get off parade-duty, I just dial the timing back to 14*..
These are the tricks you need to know about to marry a big-cam,high-compression,manual-trans combo, to very low speed operation with street-type gears.
Sure YOU could toe the clutch.
But you know what that's gonna do......
