Engine build on the brain
Not gonna pretend like I know what I'm talkin about that's why my original goal was to try and educate myself on static, dynamic and camshafts so I understand the advice you all give and apply it to my junk. I've put stuff together with no knowledge of the stuff mentioned above and it shows. So I did what alot of people do and try to copy others and hope for similar results.
Here's the list of what I have and intended goal.
Goal/600hp or close-not chasing it but believe that the parts should get it somewhere close.
Intended use/dragweek with more than a weeks life expectancy would be the best explanation.
The work on the heads and the camshaft was done and picked with the goals in mind mentioned above.
Heads/ 810 castings I believe/ w2 open chamber and they are iron. 68cc combustion chambers. They are also the econo version so I'm limited to .650 valve lift max. I choose these heads because I already owned them. I also have the accompanying parts to make them work.
Headers/ w2 tti
T&D 1.5 roller rockers
Intake/ Victor w2 also ported by the same guy that did the heads
Head flow numbers listed below
Block is a 360 no machining done yet
Stroker kit already purchased
4" Scat forged crank
Scat H beam 6.123 rods
Icon forged flat top pistons, (-5cc)part number ic-744-060 /yes .060 over the block was already .030 and had some wall damage. The head guy said the bigger bore would actually benefit me in uncovering the valves.
Camshaft/already purchased and is what bullet picked/solid roller
Other points of interest are fuel and ignition. It will be efi and control the timing.
I have the crank trigger, cam sensor, ls coils. I was gonna use a Holley dominator ecu but decided to use it on another project. So I still need some things there but I think you can see the direction its going.
As for the transmission I have a 4 speed and scatter sheild that came out of the car and will be reused. A factory o/d is not even a consideration nor is a automatic. A upgrade to a tremic or something maybe after this thing moves on its own.
Rearend is 8.75 and what I meant with the any gear is I have 3.23,55,91 4.56 5.38 and if none of those work then I will get what I need.
The car is a 72 duster with the normal chassis stiffening and full tubs. Rear is narrowed with ladder bars and so on.
Rear tires are 295 65 15 drag radials but looking at going 315 60 15 which knocks the height down to 29.9 feom 30.1 so no real difference.
Also Kansas elevation is around 890 according to my phone.
I have full confidence that the head guy and bullet did what was asked in making hp. Race gas for full potential does not bother me. I was trying to figure if I could get by on pump premium to go from A to B. That was the reasoning behind seeing if I can make it work with these pistons or would I be better off going to a dish piston.
So.....let me know what you all think
Not gonna pretend like I know what I'm talkin about that's why my original goal was to try and educate myself on static, dynamic and camshafts so I understand the advice you all give and apply it to my junk. I've put stuff together with no knowledge of the stuff mentioned above and it shows. So I did what alot of people do and try to copy others and hope for similar results.
Here's the list of what I have and intended goal.
Goal/600hp or close-not chasing it but believe that the parts should get it somewhere close.
Intended use/dragweek with more than a weeks life expectancy would be the best explanation.
The work on the heads and the camshaft was done and picked with the goals in mind mentioned above.
Heads/ 810 castings I believe/ w2 open chamber and they are iron. 68cc combustion chambers. They are also the econo version so I'm limited to .650 valve lift max. I choose these heads because I already owned them. I also have the accompanying parts to make them work.
Headers/ w2 tti
T&D 1.5 roller rockers
Intake/ Victor w2 also ported by the same guy that did the heads
Head flow numbers listed below
Block is a 360 no machining done yet
Stroker kit already purchased
4" Scat forged crank
Scat H beam 6.123 rods
Icon forged flat top pistons, (-5cc)part number ic-744-060 /yes .060 over the block was already .030 and had some wall damage. The head guy said the bigger bore would actually benefit me in uncovering the valves.
Camshaft/already purchased and is what bullet picked/solid roller
Other points of interest are fuel and ignition. It will be efi and control the timing.
I have the crank trigger, cam sensor, ls coils. I was gonna use a Holley dominator ecu but decided to use it on another project. So I still need some things there but I think you can see the direction its going.
As for the transmission I have a 4 speed and scatter sheild that came out of the car and will be reused. A factory o/d is not even a consideration nor is a automatic. A upgrade to a tremic or something maybe after this thing moves on its own.
Rearend is 8.75 and what I meant with the any gear is I have 3.23,55,91 4.56 5.38 and if none of those work then I will get what I need.
The car is a 72 duster with the normal chassis stiffening and full tubs. Rear is narrowed with ladder bars and so on.
Rear tires are 295 65 15 drag radials but looking at going 315 60 15 which knocks the height down to 29.9 feom 30.1 so no real difference.
Also Kansas elevation is around 890 according to my phone.
I have full confidence that the head guy and bullet did what was asked in making hp. Race gas for full potential does not bother me. I was trying to figure if I could get by on pump premium to go from A to B. That was the reasoning behind seeing if I can make it work with these pistons or would I be better off going to a dish piston.
So.....let me know what you all think
