Race/ slant 6 torsion bars

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Cudafever

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I have a thread on the suspension section but i feel this question will get a better group to answer.
First off it a E body not A
The only "race" torsion bar i can find is from "Firm Feel" and it is a .845" bars.
clean my bar and put a caliper on it. the close as i can tell its a .884"

Have found .810s for a A body but Not a E

Is .039" smaller diameter going to be that big of a difference for stored energy for a drag car?
and is it worth the 400 dollar price tag.

Put a want add in the E body form, but have got 0 response for a Slant 6 bars

Anyone know of a place that sells them......and hopefully for a lot less money.....
 
The E/B body bars are longer. They need to be larger diameter to get the same spring rate as a shorter bar. I think that's one reason why you'll find the smallest stock diameter for the E-body to be larger than the smallest stock diameter for an A-body. That and e's had more weight on the nose.

.884 will have a wheel rate around 105 lbs/in
.86 will be around 94 lbs/in
.845 will have a wheel rate around 88 lbs/in


A body
.810 in an A about 74 lbs/in.
.830 was around 82 lbs/in
810 might have been in the smaller, lighter first generation A's only.

1970 Plymouth FSM shows .86 smallest for Barracuda, and .83 smallest for A-body

upload_2020-2-2_8-56-7.png
 
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killerslant said:
Try a post looking for a b body slant bars. A lot more b bodies made with slants. B and E same length bars.
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Thanks, i did not know that.

Mattax said:
The E/B body bars are longer. They need to be larger diameter to get the same spring rate as a shorter bar. I think that's one reason why you'll find the smallest stock diameter for the E-body to be larger than the smallest stock diameter for an A-body. That and e's had more weight on the nose.


.884 will have a wheel rate around 105 lbs/in
.86 will be around 94 lbs/in
.845 will have a wheel rate around 88 lbs/in


A body
.810 in an A about 74 lbs/in.
.830 was around 82 lbs/in
810 might have been in the smaller, lighter first generation A's only.

1970 Plymouth FSM shows .86 smallest for Barracuda, and .83 smallest for A-body

View attachment 1715463300
Click to expand...

Good info, and Thank you.
With my car being "stock as a rock" as far as weight (Minus the AC compressor) and i will be freeing up my front end a lot with Hymns joint upper control arm and same for the strut rod. let alone the stiff kinda seized upper control arms i'm taking Removing.

On my other thread, i did a video of how stiff my front end is with a floor jack and a "bathroom" scale.
Was amazing how much resistance there was with no torsion bar or shock.

Stiff front end looking at aftermarket solutions
Post 55
 
I raced a AAR back in the day and also on the street, with the .900 bars I couldn't get any traction on the street, just changing to 6 cyl bars .860" I got major traction also had a pinion snubber with 1/2" gap.


Also 90/10's up front help a lot.
 
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those .88 bars were most likely big block bars- harder to find- keep them
we used to take the bars and grind them down and polish then coat
check any bars for nicks
 
I'm almost positive they are stock 318 bars.

I can find 1.00" and larger bars all day long, for E body, just not smaller.
I'm not the original owner but when i bought it, it was bone stock. All the way down to the skinny bias ply tires and a 2.76 rear end gears
 
oldkimmer said:
I have heard of racers turning the bars down on a laithe. Kim
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Sound Scary to me.
If that 41"? bar has any kind of wow e(not straight) could give it a weak spot to brake. Turn down a new one maybe.
 
My 68 B body is an original 383 car.
It came with .88 bars.

Sometime around 35 years ago I took some /6 bars out of another 68 B body in the bone yard.
I haven’t measured them in many many years....... but in my head they were around .840 in diameter.

Edit: Doing some digging on line indicates .840 wasn’t a size for production B body bars...... so I guess that’s not what they are.
 
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I may have to make sure i got all the paint off of that one spot and check it a 2nt time just to me sure.............

EDIT: YUP they are .884" no paint, shined up with scotch brite.
 
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PRH said:
My 68 B body is an original 383 car.
It came with .88 bars.

Sometime around 35 years ago I took some /6 bars out of another 68 B body in the bone yard.
I haven’t measured them in many many years....... but in my head they were around .840 in diameter.

Edit: Doing some digging on line indicates .840 wasn’t a size for production B body bars...... so I guess that’s not what they are.
Click to expand...
I overlook this on Mattax post.

Torson bar diamiter.PNG
 
Still have only found one place that sells a "Drag Race" bar and it $400!!!
I guess your only supposed to road race or restore a E-Body:rolleyes:
 
From what I recall...... I thought I heard the MP .840 bars didn’t hold up well at all.

Sort of like when my friend was using the Moroso drag race front springs in his GTO.
It was basically a new set every season.

He figured out that 1/2 the wear and tear was the car bobbing up and down when it was traveling in the trailer.
He ended making a “ramp” that the front cross member would ride up on when the car was loaded into the trailer, which immobilized the front end in an elevated position.
Then it was a set of springs every other year.

They didn’t break...... they just lost their tension and the car would leave well anymore.
That’s what I remember the story being for the .840 bars as well.
They go flat.
 
That's where i'm having struggles. I here, put the /6 bar in and you will get weight transfer.............But most have a much lighter front end to go with that /6 bar. aka fiberglass parts, aluminium bumper bracket with and light weight bumper.

Mine is stock as a rock, in that area, and 65 pound of that stock front end. My new tubular upper control arms and my Hyms strut rod is only going to save me a couple of pound so basically same o same o

Then there's the basicly SEIZED upper control arm bushing that will be replaced by a vary low friction Himes joint.

In my other thread i posted up a video of how much pressure it took to raise the suspension up and it took 140 pound to raise it up to the full compressed state.(just touching the compression rubber bumper)
When i released the pressure it didn't land on the rebound bumper. had to shove it down with my hand, the last couple of inches.

So........My front end is going to have way more.......or should i say way less resistance to suspension travel.
With new part weighing about the same as before, But a LOT looser front end..............My stock T- Bars may be just fine........:drama:

I might as well repost that video on this thread as well.
 

At 1:54 is when i us the bathroom scale to show how much pressure it take to compress.
 
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I STILL don't understand how the slant six bars help weight transfer.
 
jos51700 said:
I STILL don't understand how the slant six bars help weight transfer.
Click to expand...
It took me a while to understand it too.
It called stored energy.
The more the spring has to twist or on a coil compress. The faster it responds to change.
If i put a grate big t-bar in it, it would handle much better. but would be much slower to rise.
Other may be able to explain it better.
 
They unload the front suspension faster giving it faster and more lift, transferring more weight to the rear wheels and keeping it there longer. Kim
 
jos51700 said:
I STILL don't understand how the slant six bars help weight transfer.
Click to expand...


Let's do some math (I hate math).

If you have a spring with a rate of 100 pounds/inch, it takes 100 pounds to compress the spring 1 inch.

If you have a 200 pound spring, it takes 200 pounds to compress the spring 1 inch.

The opposite is true.

If you have a 100 pound spring, it takes removing 100 pounds off of it to make it extend 1 inch and the 200 pound spring takes 200 pounds to extend the spring 1 inch.

Saying all that, if you have a 200 pound spring and you replace it with a 100 pound spring, you have now made it easier for the front end to move as it takes less weight to extend the spring.

It's really that simple. Of course, with less spring rate you have to preload the spring more to get the same ride height, but, that is really stored energy to help get the spring moving.
 
Okibonoe said:
Im looking for someone to do that. Any ideas?
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One of the sites i when looking for t bars, would restore you bar by straighten it and then reheat treating it.

With that said if the bar is not perfectly straight, and you put it in a lathe..........you might be asking for it to snap on you as the thickness may not be uniform any more.

I know someone with a lathe.........but i'm chicken to try it for the above reasons.
 
yellow rose said:
Let's do some math (I hate math).

If you have a spring with a rate of 100 pounds/inch, it takes 100 pounds to compress the spring 1 inch.

If you have a 200 pound spring, it takes 200 pounds to compress the spring 1 inch.

The opposite is true.

If you have a 100 pound spring, it takes removing 100 pounds off of it to make it extend 1 inch and the 200 pound spring takes 200 pounds to extend the spring 1 inch.

Saying all that, if you have a 200 pound spring and you replace it with a 100 pound spring, you have now made it easier for the front end to move as it takes less weight to extend the spring.

It's really that simple. Of course, with less spring rate you have to preload the spring more to get the same ride height, but, that is really stored energy to help get the spring moving.
Click to expand...


YR
GRATE SIMPLE EXPLANATION.:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
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