Collapsed Steering Shaft

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jonn6464

jonn6464

1970 Duster
Joined
Mar 29, 2017
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Weatherford, TX
Well, had a buffoon moment today and broke the nylon support in the 2 piece drive shaft. Was tapping on a bearing and it gave way. I've rebuilt the column completely and this was the last piece of the puzzle.

So, my question is a simple one... do I need to dis-assemble the unit and install new nylon pins, or can I drive it as is? I'm using a Borgeson steering box, so I can pull it to the length it needs to be and attach the coupler. I just don't know how much movement or pressure the steering shaft is subject to during "spirited" driving. With the steering box being mounted to the K frame and the column mounted to the support under the dash, will there be any movement issues? I definitely don't want it to pull on the coupler and pull the guts out when I'm on the road.

Thanks for the help.
 
The guys that replace their pot couplings with u joints say it'll be fine


Do you trust em? Just depends on what you think right is.
 
The nylon pins are not really pins the nylon is injected
In one hole and flows around a groove cut in the inner shaft to form a band between the inner and outer shaft and flows out the hole on the other side.
With all that said it will be fine to use as is.
 
An assumption...

The double "D" shape of the upper and lower shafts "should" prevent one shaft from rotating without the other.

The upper part of the shaft should be held in by the retainers and bearings.

The lower part of the shaft should be held in by the lower cuppler. But that is what worried me as I have seen many that the top had come off.

I agree with what cudascott said. I recently got two shifter shafts for some test fitting and one was slighter shorter than the other. You could see the plastic shifted up the shaft and slightly shaved off.
 
cudascott said:
The nylon pins are not really pins the nylon is injected
In one hole and flows around a groove cut in the inner shaft to form a band between the inner and outer shaft and flows out the hole on the other side.
With all that said it will be fine to use as is.
Click to expand...

Agree about the pins not really being pins. You may have noticed that I said the nylon "support" broke. The only reason I mentioned repairing it with a nylon pin is because I don't have the ability to flow molten nylon into the hole. But, I'm glad to hear it won't be a problem to drive it as is. Thanks for the reply.
 
Get a larger syringe . Clean he column hole and ring slide it back together to the correct position . Mix up JB weld quik-set and seal off one hole with your finger pressure and inject the other hole with JB weld. I tried hot glue it cooled to fast. Maybe if you would heat the shaft. I found The JB quick set worked the best . I only did some columns because they were loose and rattled. I had others in the past that I put in place were tight and left them like that.
 
it may be "ok" for mounting up and turning on the surface, but the two nylon fused inner shaft sections (ie: mopar method) work as part of the collision / impact absorbsion, along with pre-stressed caged outter column sleeve.
With the inner shaft now being compromised, the two shafts will compress (if not already bottomed out) at a faster rate than designed, in the event of a collision, the caged portion will not be enough to absorb all the energy.
you then have a 3ft long, 1" wide hardened steel spike aimed at near dead center of occupant's mass, with little more than a horn button in the way.
The general rule is: once collapsed, it should be replaced.
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Collapsible column[edit]
A common device to enhance car safety is the collapsible steering column. This is designed to collapse in the event of a collision to protect the driver from harm. The column can collapse after impact with a tolerance ring inserted between the inner shaft of the steering column and the external housing. The wavelike protrusions on the circumference of the tolerance ring act as a spring to hold the two parts in place in normal driving conditions. At a specific level of force, for example in the event of a collision, the tolerance ringallows the inner shaft to slip inside the housing, so the column can collapse, absorbing energy from the impact.
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Fgill said:
With the inner shaft now being compromised, the two shafts will compress (if not already bottomed out) at a faster rate than designed, in the event of a collision, the caged portion will not be enough to absorb all the energy.

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Click to expand...

For one thing if the shaft is already bottomed it cannot be installed. Another What does the caged portion have to do with the integrity of absorbing energy. I hope you are not saying that the column shaft stops the front end of the car from collapsing. The two shafts coming together just allows for the shaft to get shorter. along with the perforated column which allows the column to be able to move forward as the steering box is moving back.

Those plastic filled holes do not have any energy absorption at all. Drop one on the floor on end from 6 inches and they shear and the shaft collapses. Just standing them up in the corner at times collapses them. That is why I hang them or lay them down. You have to start thinking with your "Dipstick Son"

steve 164.jpg
 
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It will be fine as is. The column has plenty more room to collapse. If you are in an accident that severe, you may more problems to contend with.

Since the Borgeson box is on a slight angle, an impact would drive the column to the side to some degree. When using my coupler arrangement, their is a safety pin on the side of coupler to prevent the shaft from pulling out of the coupler.
 
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