skep419
No show, all go!
the screw trick didn’t work. That’s when my blood pressure spiked
Did I wreck the steering shaft changing seal
- Thread starter skep419
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the screw trick didn’t work. That’s when my blood pressure spiked
mopar head
Well-Known Member
As long as you did`nt mess up the id of the bore you`ll be allright
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Why didnt you just spin the nut ring off, remove the aluminum cover, and tap the seal out from behind? Yes the input shaft Is fucked
Looks like the shaft is chewed up where the seal will ride. If that's the case, it's gonna leak from there. The old seal probably did a better job than the new one will do riding on that chewed up shaft.
340demon72
Well-Known Member
Yup, you done fixed it real good. But seeing as you live in the rust belt, you'll be rustproofing the chassis as you drive now.........
If the spline is slightly smaller than the area where seal runs, use a speedy sleeve.
The driver that comes with it will be too short.you will need a pipe that fits exactly like the driver.
Will need to clean up the shaft a little.
The driver that comes with it will be too short.you will need a pipe that fits exactly like the driver.
Will need to clean up the shaft a little.
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circlepilot
Well-Known Member
Well, if you are stuck for getting a new steering box, chuck the housing up in a vise, take the cover off to gain access to the shaft. Get some "quality emery cloth" 220 to 320 grit and buff the shaft to remove the jagged edges of the damage "only." Clean the shaft completely with MEK or acetone. Mix up a small amount of JB weld (not JB quick) and work the mixture into the damaged area "only", making sure the mixture you apply is (reasonably)piled up above the damage. Using scotch tape (preferably) or masking tape, wrap the shaft (tightly) with a layer of tape. After the mixture is cured (I would wait 24 hours) remove the tape. (use some goo-gone to remove the tape residue) Using the emery cloth, buff the mixture to a point that only the filled damage can be seen. Smooth the jagged edges of the seal land on the cover, install a new seal, with a little Permatex on the outer edge of the seal. Coat the shaft with a little silicone, or Vaseline and install the cover. This could get you going again.
Norm
Norm
skep419
No show, all go!
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skep419
No show, all go!
anybody have a part number for this o-ring or do I just leave it because the other seal will probably leak anyway Hahahaha
Nope. It's still going to leak like a sieve. A Speedysleeve like Tooljunkie mentioned or a different gearbox.
circlepilot
Well-Known Member
Looks like a good job to me...You might be surprised that it "won't" leak. Of course you can do the Speedysleeve, as an insurance policy. A new gearbox would eliminate the leak all together. "O" ring part number, try 17733602. This kit may help also. ACDelco® - Professional™ Steering Gear Input Shaft Seal Kit with Seals and O-Ring Decisions...decisions!
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circlepilot
Well-Known Member
Curious...Did you get your gear box back together? Does it leak?
Norm
Norm
skep419
No show, all go!
Still waiting on the seal kit from rock auto. Once I get it back together I still have to put the motor back in. Sometime in February.
skep419
No show, all go!
Must have botched something putting it back together. Fired it up and the steering wheel spun to the left on its own. Lucky my hand was clear.
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circlepilot
Well-Known Member
You have hydraulic pressure going the wrong direction. 
Should be easy to correct. You didn't mention any leaks???
Should be easy to correct. You didn't mention any leaks???
skep419
No show, all go!
I read that I’m suppose to loosen the pressure block and move it little at a time. Didn’t matter where it was at it stills rips the wheel to the left.
Although with the block all the way to the rear I can turn the wheel more freely to the right while the car isn’t running.
No leaks so far but I’ve only been able to run it for 10 seconds.
Although with the block all the way to the rear I can turn the wheel more freely to the right while the car isn’t running.
No leaks so far but I’ve only been able to run it for 10 seconds.
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
I would have it professionally rebuilt.
skep419
No show, all go!
where’s the fun in that?
Did you pull off the pressure control valve? Maybe the o-ring got lodged and is blocking flow??
When I replaced those o-rings in the pressure valve, an adjustment of thousands of an inch made a huge difference.
When I replaced those o-rings in the pressure valve, an adjustment of thousands of an inch made a huge difference.
skep419
No show, all go!
i did end up pulling the block off. The o-rings were there. What a pain in the butt that was to get back together.
I’m leaning towards something I screwed up replacing the seal.
Yeah, that thing is a bugger, for sure.
You could try replacing the seal again and see if you find anything.
You could try replacing the seal again and see if you find anything.
Do you have an FSM for that car? It explains it great detail how to diagnose, adjust and rebuild the gear box.
skep419
No show, all go!
Yep. I’m an idiot for not using it.
pretty sure I put the ring on the wrong side of the spring. Unless the od of the ring fits through the id of the spring.
skep419
No show, all go!
circlepilot
Well-Known Member
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