Thermoquad base gasket leak

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watchdoc

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So I bought a rebuilt Thermoquad 9000 series from a member here and installed with a Walker supplied thick base gasket. It's not sealing around the front drivers side corner and I'm afriad to tighten it any further. Any suggestions on what Thermoquad base gaskets seal the best? I see some available that have a nitrile coating.

This is a 73 340 with Weiand Action Plus 8007 spread bore intake.
 
Here is a couple pictures. You can see where the gasket is wet around the leak. I guess I'm gonna try the sandwich method with a paper gasket top and bottom with the thick gasket in the middle. Any suggestions on a part number? Not a single local parts store has any Thermoquad base gaskets in stock.

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The one stud where I can see the "spare" between the threads on the right rear looks like the space is sticking up too high. Are you sure you're not running out of carburetor stud?
 
I assume you mean the non threaded part of the stud? I will verify but it didn't seem like it the nut was anywhere near the middle.
 
I assume you mean the non threaded part of the stud? I will verify but it didn't seem like it the nut was anywhere near the middle.

Yes, correct. Mopar always used bolts.
 
FEL-PRO 60145 With this number you should be able to order them at any auto parts store. Rockauto show them @ 2.92 each, you will need two. If you wanted to try the sandwich method.

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Just for the sake of argument, check the primary throttle shaft seals. That may also cause the wet condition that shows in the pictures.
 
I was assured they weren't worn but for the sake of arguement, how do I check them?
Wiggle the throttle shaft up/down and forward/back. If there's a lot of slop, that could be your problem...some slop is acceptable. Also check float level on that side of the carb...could be too high.
 
You got more than an air leak. You got raw fuel leaking, and Thermoquads are known to develop a leak in the mainwells. My advice is to separate the black part out with the carb FLAT on the table, then look into the cavities under where the mainwells are; I bet you'll find gas in there, and it ain't supposed to be there. If so, your bowl is gonna need repair.
 
You got more than an air leak. You got raw fuel leaking, and Thermoquads are known to develop a leak in the mainwells. My advice is to separate the black part out with the carb FLAT on the table, then look into the cavities under where the mainwells are; I bet you'll find gas in there, and it ain't supposed to be there. If so, your bowl is gonna need repair.

We were spraying carb cleaner all over the place and pouring gas straight into the carb trying to get it primed so the gasket being wet did not surprise me. I ordered some paper gaskets so I’m gonna try that first and see where I’m at.
 
Felpro 60273
If its leaking from the gasket, this is the one you want.

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What is your carb leaking?
A carb is not supposed to leak, period. If your carb is leaking gas, there is something wrong with it,period.
The base gasket is not meant to stop gas leakage, the molecules of gas will seep thru places that air will not flow.
There are only three ways that gas will come out of the base gasket of a non-running engine; 1) up over the bowl,or 2) out the bottom of the bowl, or 3) thru a crack in the bowl; and you guessed it, none is normal.
With the engine recently turned off, if the gas continues to appear at the base gasket, I'll bet it's coming out the bottom. AFAIK, this only happens with TQs.. because they have their mainwells bonded to the underside of the bowl.
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Judging by how dirty your intake plenum is,either your cam has a very late closing intake valve,or your idlespeed is too slow for it, or the carb has been leaking into the intake for quite a while.

I highly recommend you check your crankcase for gas in the oil, cuz from the intake, there are only three ways for the gas to get out of the plenum; 1) by evaporation straight up past the semi closed throttle blades or sideways from there thru the base gasket, or 2) into the valley thru a leaky intake to head gasket, or 3) into the cylinder thru open intake valves. From the cylinders, there are only two ways out; 1) by evaporation thru an open exhaust valve, or 2) by gravity, sneaking thru the ring gaps and into the oilpan.
Once the oil has been washed of the cylinder walls, the engine becomes very difficult to start.

I never use either, because if the engine doesn't start right up, subsequent tries just destroys the ring seal. I use a mixture of gas and 5% two-cycle oil. A cold 360 cuber will accept quite a bit of raw gas in the intake, just give it a few seconds to make vapors. And when you crank, keep the throttle open until the Rs hit ~2000, before slowly lifting, else she may flood/stall when the puddle comes thru; and then yur plugs will be too wet to start any time soon.
Good luck
 
Just a follow up. I was able to seal the vacuum leak with 2 paper gaskets but the carb still wouldn't idle. I could get it to run at about 1500rpm but it wasn't really pulling any vacuum and was dumping fuel. Sooooooo

I broke down and bought a new Holley Street Demon. Took me about an hour to get it installed. After 20 seconds of priming, fired right up and idles great out of the box. Sooooo pissed that i wasted the time and money on the TQ. I'm the first one to admit my lack of tuning knowledge on the TQ but I wish I had taken this route to begin with. I'm gonna start a separate thread on my Street Demon experience.
 
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