front drag shocks

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aaronk785

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Putting some drag shocks on the front of my challenger. Should I use calvert, Comp. eng. or summit brand. I see the calverts are not adjustable 90/10 only. Thanks.
 
Spend a little more now and get some Viking DA shocks.

Those 90/10 shocks were obsolete in 1975 or whenever the adjustable Koni shocks came out that bolted in the stock location.

90/10 just means the shock comes apart 9 times easier than it goes together. If your chassis hates that (and it most likely will) then you drop to 80/20.

Then the question becomes did I really want to slow down the extension AND the bump at the same time?

The answer is usually you don't. The two need to be seperate.

Just save your money and get a better shock. No one EVER went slower with a better shock.
 
OR you could do the old trick of getting some standard hydraulic shocks and drilling a hole in them to drain the fluid. The Mopar Suspension manual highlights doing it. It works. Course you won't need to see a lot of street duty. lol
 
Putting some drag shocks on the front of my challenger. Should I use calvert, Comp. eng. or summit brand. I see the calverts are not adjustable 90/10 only. Thanks.

What rear suspension do you have? What ET are you plan on running? I've ran Comp Eng shocks set on 90/10 for years and they have served me well. I have them on leaf spring car that runs mid 11's and a ladder bar car that runs mid to high 10's. I am looking at purchasing double adjustable in the near future mainly to have another way to fine tune my lights. Thinking of going AFCO that way if I do Troy front K frame kit in the future I'll already have the shocks. If I were to purchase a cheaper shock I'd look at QA1 racing shock.
 
I have run the Competition Engineering shocks at 90/10, they worked fine. I currently have the Calvert 90/10's, they also work fine. The Calvert shocks came apart much easier than the Comp Eng shocks, so I stayed with the Calvert's (this is on my 10 second car).
 
Car runs in the 10.5 to 10.3 range. Just converted over to homemade caltracs and stock 318 springs. Running stock worn out front shocks now. 3500 lb. car. Best ET with the s/s springs was 10.3 and 1.42 60 but the 60 was very inconsistent. Haven't tried the caltracs yet so we'll see.
 
Car runs in the 10.5 to 10.3 range. Just converted over to homemade caltracs and stock 318 springs. Running stock worn out front shocks now. 3500 lb. car. Best ET with the s/s springs was 10.3 and 1.42 60 but the 60 was very inconsistent. Haven't tried the caltracs yet so we'll see.

For that ET and weight, I'd opt for a "better" shock. Not saying the Comp Eng wouldn't get the job done, but I'd get something with more adjustability to be able to tune it to your car.
 
I would agree with the poster's above that mentioned Viking. If you go with there Crusader line, Viking offers either drag high or drag low valving based on your HP. Regardless of either the Warrior or Crusader both lines are adjustable and are very simple to tune. Also we offer the member discount on Vikings and free shipping. Please let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks
James From
PST
 
OR you could do the old trick of getting some standard hydraulic shocks and drilling a hole in them to drain the fluid. The Mopar Suspension manual highlights doing it. It works. Course you won't need to see a lot of street duty. lol
I tried that once. The shock had zero damping. Might as well have run no shock. I couldn't understand why Mopar recommended it.
 
I think for a mid 10 sec car a 500 dollar shock is overkill for a car with leaf spring suspension. jmo
90/10 should be fine, pick one.
 
If your future plans call for going faster, then spend what you need to to handle your goals. You may also need a better rear shock based on your coment on very inconsistant 60 fts. That speaks. As much or more to poor rear shocks not getting the job done. Posting a launch video would help.
 
I run QA1R’s on the front. Single adjustable and I am very happy with them. Viking, absolutely great product, but much more $$
 
OR you could do the old trick of getting some standard hydraulic shocks and drilling a hole in them to drain the fluid. The Mopar Suspension manual highlights doing it. It works. Course you won't need to see a lot of street duty. lol
It doesn't work.
 
I ordered the CE 3 ways. I just cant afford the Vikings this year. So I will just have to live with the CEs this season if they work or not. Need all new tires this year so there goes the budget. Would you start on 90/10?
 
I ordered the CE 3 ways. I just cant afford the Vikings this year. So I will just have to live with the CEs this season if they work or not. Need all new tires this year so there goes the budget. Would you start on 90/10?
I would start on 90/10 and find someone to video the launch. Things you can try are to make sure you have a soft bumpstop on the front suspension and watch the rear axle to see if it is hitting hard and bouncing back up. I believe each frame of a video is .03 seconds, and i found my car was rebounding that quick or quicker!
 
I tried that once. The shock had zero damping. Might as well have run no shock. I couldn't understand why Mopar recommended it.
Maybe not for you.
You could put the same (whatever) shock on 10 different cars, and possibly get 10 different results.
I suppose a shock with no oil in it could work in some application. What did it work in for you? I'm thinking a worn OE shock would be better in a low buck effort.
 
You could put the same (whatever) shock on 10 different cars, and possibly get 10 different results.
I suppose a shock with no oil in it could work in some application. What did it work in for you? I'm thinking a worn OE shock would be better in a low buck effort.

65 Valiant. I had shocks with holes and slant six torsion bars. It transferred like a big dawg on the strip.
 
You could put the same (whatever) shock on 10 different cars, and possibly get 10 different results.
I suppose a shock with no oil in it could work in some application. What did it work in for you? I'm thinking a worn OE shock would be better in a low buck effort.
The worn OE shock is what I had, the car lifted the front about 6" when it came down it was game on.
 
OR you could do the old trick of getting some standard hydraulic shocks and drilling a hole in them to drain the fluid. The Mopar Suspension manual highlights doing it. It works. Course you won't need to see a lot of street duty. lol
65 Valiant. I had shocks with holes and slant six torsion bars. It transferred like a big dawg on the strip.
The worn OE shock is what I had, the car lifted the front about 6" when it came down it was game on.
:thumbsup:
 
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