[WANTED] Heat Riser 225 slant six
- Thread starter Jax_1975_Dart
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Jax_1975_Dart
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This is what my empty heat riser space looks like. I’ve tried a heat riser off a 175 and a few other slant sixes. Regretfully, none of the ones I have fit this vehicle’s setup.
I’m at the point where I’m considering a choke pull cable but, am hoping to keep things original to the car.
You don't need a heat riser. You need the choke mechanism.
Jax_1975_Dart
Well-Known Member
RustyRadRod, I believe you are 100% correct. I’ve had nothing but trouble starting this new to me Dart and it’s missing something choke related. Is there a technical term or part number I should be referencing? I basically have to mess with the choke (at start) which puts the RPM’s a lot higher than normal starting idle. I then have to adjust the linkage (each time) to get back within normal operating conditions. I would LOVE to have the correct choke setting mechanism. Thank you for your expertise/feedback. I assumed it was a heat riser originally.
Wayne Miller
1962 Dodge Lancer Wagon
Is this what you need?
It's off a 1975 -225 Cu In. Slant.
It's off a 1975 -225 Cu In. Slant.
Jax_1975_Dart
Well-Known Member
Yes, I'm pretty sure that's exactly the part I need! I've regretfully never seen what it looks like but, all of the other styles of choke thermostats that I've seen won't fit like this one would.
You willing to part with it? I'll Paypal today or perhaps we can work something out in the PM's. Thank you!
waggin
moving on ain't easy if you drive a Ford :p
ive got one in floral city florida 25 shipped sound fair?
Jax_1975_Dart
Well-Known Member
Thanks Waggin! I think I’m all set with the part pictured from Wayne. But, am sort of in a “pending” closure of deal situation. Will absolutely circle back to your part in FLA if the original deal doesn’t pan out. Much appreciated that you took the time to post a reply.
Good to see you Curtis. Hope all is well. ......and guess what? I took a tape measure tonight and measured in five different places. You were right about the radiator support in my Valiant.......I mean......I knew you were soon as you said it, because I saw it when you pointed it out. It's pushed back right at 1/2" from about 1/3 over from the passenger's side to about the same on the driver's side. Gonna borrow the boss man's port a power and jack that puppy right on out. I thank you sir!
waggin
moving on ain't easy if you drive a Ford :p
nevermind I thought the sheet metal for the tube that goes to the air cleaner
waggin
moving on ain't easy if you drive a Ford :p
block of wood and a bumper jack or a hammer and block of wood
I agree.....but since I have access to a more "controlled way".....LMAO I can just see me hittin somethin " I ain't supposed to" with a hammer. LOL
pishta
I know I'm right....
Get a divorced choke form a 1945 equipped motor. Rock has this one for $10 new.
Not sure if it would fit but it lists for a 75 225 w/1945 carb. Standard CV149
1975 DODGE DART 3.7L 225cid L6 Carburetor Choke Thermostat / Heater | RockAuto
Not sure if it would fit but it lists for a 75 225 w/1945 carb. Standard CV149
1975 DODGE DART 3.7L 225cid L6 Carburetor Choke Thermostat / Heater | RockAuto
Jax_1975_Dart
Well-Known Member
Funny thing is we have two lying around that look exactly like this part. But, it won’t even come close to mounting properly on the exhaust. For what i’s worth... searching Plymouth Duster ‘75 shows the right part. I’m guessing either my vehicle was modified from OEM or Chrysler used a Duster setup on the Dart Sport 225 for ‘75.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
A bigger photo including the carb might help in finding what you need. I think Pishta showed the proper choke assy. It uses a choke timer which I think I see in your photo. (but not sure). You won't need the cup that Wayne shows in his photo. That cup was used on an exhaust manifold with an opening into the exhaust. They were used from 1970-1972. For those reading this thread and are confused as to what some of these items are called......the heat riser is built into the exhaust manifold down close to the outlet. It has a weight and bimetal spring that operates a flap to increase backpressure and help warm up the engine. The parts Jimacuda posted are heat stoves. They also help engine warm-up by ducting warm air from the exhaust manifold up and into the air cleaner. A thermovacuum valve controls the operating flap in the snorkle of the air cleaner. All these parts should be used if you want the car to start up and operate properly at all temperatures.
Jax_1975_Dart
Well-Known Member
CudaMark, Thanks for posting this. I plan to take much better pics this weekend. I’ve been somewhat confused as the ‘75 Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge/Imperial FSM clearly states that I should use the precise choke thermostat/assembly that Pishta pictured. But, I also clearly have an empty gaping hole on the manifold for the cup-style throttle thermostat (minus the cup). Ill post more pics on Sun/Monday but, with all of the starting issues I am having... I think you may be 100% correct that my Holley 1945 setup might be missing both choke thermostat and the heat riser assembly. There’s a noticeable electrical terminal that reads “choke” and, the style Wayne has is a manual with no electrical cable.. Where-as the Pishta piece would plug in to that terminal and might fit directly behind the Holley carb. Thanks again for your feedback into this! I’m learning and want to get my car drive-able.
Jax_1975_Dart
Well-Known Member
Better pics:
cudamark
Well-Known Member
You don't need the cup with your manifold. Pishta's photo is the choke you want. You'll need to scare up the correct clip to attach the rod to the choke flap. You already have the choke timer, so assuming that it works properly, all you will have to do is mount the choke and plug it in. Looks like you have a broken off bolt that anchors the choke to the exhaust manifold. Good luck on getting that out, but, it needs to be replaced if you want to bolt down that choke assy properly. Naturally, you'll have to adjust (read bend the rod) the choke rod to get the proper tension on the choke flap and to clear anything that might be in the way of it's throw. Also, make sure your choke pull-off is working too or it will be one rich running puppy until it warms up fully. Those pull offs have a bad habit of their diaphragms going bad. A simple vacuum test is all that is needed along with whatever adjustment (rod bending again) is also needed, if any. If you need help making these adjustments, try using the factory specs and procedure if you can. If you still have an issue, I'll try to help, but, it's not always a cut and dried exact adjustment that fits all applications. There's usually a bit of trial and error to get it exactly right.
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