Nitrous plumbing A1A...??..

Hot Metal said
You could go 25n/25f if you feel your happier with that, you won't have to concern yourself about retards too much either, perhaps 2 deg is enough, more if you go cleaner. I had 1 main arming switch, then 1 switch for the seperate fuel pump for NO2 petrol, and then a micro on carb for WOT off the line. A steering wheel button is perhaps your best way as I doubt you'll be hitting it off the bat anywhere, even once you get used to it all being a stick car. Having a fuel pressure guage thats visible in front of you isn't a bad idea, I had 2 on the cowl.

Everything I see on every jet chart has the fuel four or five thousands smaller?? ..
I was thinking I would get the plumbing finished first. I wanted to get all the under the hood lines modules and all that stuff inline and together. I want to get the line going into the cab. Then I want to start on the fuel side of things. I have a big fuel pump and a regulator and I want to like you said put a visible fuel gauge on and check it while it's activated as well to see if I get much pressure drop? I doubt I will get much at the small increments I'm working with and the incredibly large fuel pump that I took out of action for the car because it was just too annoying and loud.. if I put it under the hood with a small tank I will know it's armed and running for sure.. I was thinking of running the regulator on the back side and having it dumped back into the top of the small race fuel tank..all stuff I can work on after the car is backing up and running with its new carburetors and such... I believe the very last thing I'm going to do after everything is wired hooked up ready to go this to buy a nitrous tank and have it filled..
At some point this summer I plan to likely pull the motor for the Speedmaster heads... at that point with the motor out I can start rerouting wires and making switches... For now it's just kind of getting all the hard parts in place..