Nitrous plumbing A1A...??..

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The thread says one bottle was damaged from a fire.... and the other was when the bottle heat was left on over night.....

Just plain stupidity realy..... but not something that we want to gloss over.

Make sure you get a set up with the "blow off- blow down" provision.
 
I got the Speedmaster nitrous plates and they seemed like a good machine aluminum.. they definitely were not directional.. as in they don't blow down at an angle I just have two bars with 10 holes on either side blowing straight horizontal.. I think one of them is even just a slightly off as in going slightly down and slightly up LOL.. I do have them mounted above the tunnel ram, but 2 inches below the carburetor underneath the 2in riser.. also this won't be activated unless it's at open throttle above 3 Grand so I can't imagine my small little shot not getting sucked down...
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oh yeah and I need some 90 degree elbows to get me out of in between the carburetors...$$$...:mob::BangHead::BangHead:..
 
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-4 90s?

Man i cant wait to see you get this going.

I will be doing N20 on my new build just cuz ive got lots of nitrous parts sitting on the shelf. With the power i plan on making under boost i dont think i will ever have the balls to use it but i sure love the look!
 
Cope said:
-4 90s?

Man i cant wait to see you get this going.

I will be doing N20 on my new build just cuz ive got lots of nitrous parts sitting on the shelf. With the power i plan on making under boost i dont think i will ever have the balls to use it but i sure love the look!
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You should see the Jets that came with these nitrous plates LOL I don't feel I'll be using any of them.. unless I want to start out at a 400 shot LOL. The smallest ones seem to add up to a 200 shot for each card plate...
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Don't forget, you can put the plate under the carbs or under the spacers and see if it makes any difference.

My WAG is the higher the plate, the more power it will make.

I kept moving my FI nozzles up and kept finding power even though all the gurus said it wouldn't.

Worth testing for it.
 
yellow rose said:
Don't forget, you can put the plate under the carbs or under the spacers and see if it makes any difference.

My WAG is the higher the plate, the more power it will make.

I kept moving my FI nozzles up and kept finding power even though all the gurus said it wouldn't.

Worth testing for it.
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Lower just seemed closer to direct injection lol... Also a good sit away from the carb linkage and all that other stuff going on..
 
weedburner said:
Hook it up to a bottle of co2, just flip the co2 bottle upside down so that liquid comes out when you crack the valve. Similar pressure to a nitrous bottle.

Grant
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I was wondering after I got everything completely hooked up if I couldn't take the carburetors off and try a small nitrous shot with the engine obviously off? Assume I'm just giving a shot of air anyways and after a few minutes it would just dissipate? The plates will be locked down by the 2in spacers anyways? I could even do this with the fuel side as well it seems?
I guess if I got real tricky I could slip some kind of piece of plastic under the plate so nothing got in the motor..
 
Hot Metal said:
You've probably already found some smaller jets but here's this>
https://inductionsolutions.com/shop/nitrous-accessoriescomponents/jets/nitrous-jets/

.052n jet was rated at 125hp on a cheater plate with the NOS N/solenoid orifice@.093" and the NOS plate.
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I believe I have the long stem jets that are the nos brand or Edelbrock brand size..
So just for something to put in there I was going to order .035 / .028 which I believe our 50 shot jets with about 5 to 7 pounds of fuel pressure? Of course that would be doubled with two plates and start out with a hundred shot...???
I'm surprised at how very few people I'm getting to talk about this subject... I sure appreciate your input and a couple others that have given me some help and advice..
 
I'm not an expert on the new kits, just going by what I learnt in the old days with a cheater kit, then a big shot kit on the BB car. Those tunes were seriously fat, thats why I got away without retarding much, cos I didn't make the hp. I think you need to watch what charts you go by as Ind. Solutions charts for 1 can vary as to the plates/solenoids depending on what kit, some have huge orifice sizes and therefore jetting will be different of course. I think its best to go by the NOS cheater kit numbers, there's just so many, sure got to do some work. Didn't they give you a hp chart for those jets you got?
 
Hot Metal said:
I'm not an expert on the new kits, just going by what I learnt in the old days with a cheater kit, then a big shot kit on the BB car. Those tunes were seriously fat, thats why I got away without retarding much, cos I didn't make the hp. I think you need to watch what charts you go by as Ind. Solutions charts for 1 can vary as to the plates/solenoids depending on what kit, some have huge orifice sizes and therefore jetting will be different of course. I think its best to go by the NOS cheater kit numbers, there's just so many, sure got to do some work.
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What I didn't like about Speedmaster Jets was there's no indication of what jet size it is on the jet itself.. when I looked at the Jets under a magnifying glass the front of the orifice the fuel goes in almost looks the same and the very back of it is a little smaller or bigger... I'm curious to get a couple nos brand Jets and see if they have some indication of what they are on the jet itself?... I will have Zex solenoids but I don't think that has anything to do with a lot of stuff as I'm not planning over 150 to 200 shot anyways.. I think the solenoids will hold up to a 250 shot which is much further than I planned to go.. My biggest plan is just to make it work right...
 
The NOS jets I had were all marked with a number. The front of the jets are all the same size, backs are the actual size, thats normal. So if you go with say 25n jets and 20f jets @5>6psi to be still a bit fat that should be around a 120 shot?. Much less and I doubt if you'd notice it too much. Race only a 125 shot was worth around .4>.5 in ET on my junk but I was well fat on the tune.
 
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Hot Metal said:
The NOS jets I had were all marked with a number. The front of the jets are all the same size, backs are the actual size, thats normal. So if you go with say 25n jets and 20f jets @5>6psi to be still a bit fat that should be around a 120 shot?. Much less and I doubt if you'd notice it too much. Race only a 125 shot was worth around .4>.5 in ET on my junk but I was well fat on the tune.
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My goal is to have a safe operational system.. not only safe for me, but safe for the engine.. kind of like you're saying creep up on the tune and creep up on the amount that I use.. getting all the components linked together with all their electrical connections and triggers and arming devices... I'm already imagining a second switch panel just for operating all the different ways I want things wired up..
 
You could go 25n/25f if you feel your happier with that, you won't have to concern yourself about retards too much either, perhaps 2 deg is enough, more if you go cleaner. I had 1 main arming switch, then 1 switch for the seperate fuel pump for NO2 petrol, and then a micro on carb for WOT off the line. A steering wheel button is perhaps your best way as I doubt you'll be hitting it off the bat anywhere, even once you get used to it all being a stick car. Having a fuel pressure guage thats visible in front of you isn't a bad idea, I had 2 on the cowl. The thing you need to watch in a "race" situation is if your in 2nd say and you want to hit it, make sure your at 4000 before you do, downside to that is it'll spin to 7k quite fast depending on how much N you got in it.
When I ran my 9 in the 440 car I hit it with a 175 big shot off the line, wasn't ready for it, never done it before and it almost caught me out, it went to 7100rpm on the hit, managed to hit 2nd but it trapped at 7400rpm, crapped the life out of me with 6-pack rods/pistons in there:eek:
 
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Hot Metal said:
You could go 25n/25f if you feel your happier with that, you won't have to concern yourself about retards too much either, perhaps 2 deg is enough, more if you go cleaner. I had 1 main arming switch, then 1 switch for the seperate fuel pump for NO2 petrol, and then a micro on carb for WOT off the line. A steering wheel button is perhaps your best way as I doubt you'll be hitting it off the bat anywhere, even once you get used to it all being a stick car. Having a fuel pressure guage thats visible in front of you isn't a bad idea, I had 2 on the cowl.
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Everything I see on every jet chart has the fuel four or five thousands smaller?? ..
I was thinking I would get the plumbing finished first. I wanted to get all the under the hood lines modules and all that stuff inline and together. I want to get the line going into the cab. Then I want to start on the fuel side of things. I have a big fuel pump and a regulator and I want to like you said put a visible fuel gauge on and check it while it's activated as well to see if I get much pressure drop? I doubt I will get much at the small increments I'm working with and the incredibly large fuel pump that I took out of action for the car because it was just too annoying and loud.. if I put it under the hood with a small tank I will know it's armed and running for sure.. I was thinking of running the regulator on the back side and having it dumped back into the top of the small race fuel tank..all stuff I can work on after the car is backing up and running with its new carburetors and such... I believe the very last thing I'm going to do after everything is wired hooked up ready to go this to buy a nitrous tank and have it filled..
At some point this summer I plan to likely pull the motor for the Speedmaster heads... at that point with the motor out I can start rerouting wires and making switches... For now it's just kind of getting all the hard parts in place..
 
Right now I'm going to get a couple of Russell elbows today from the local parts store to see if they're going to work in between the carburetors to run the inside nitrous lines.. I'll end up taking them straight back as they cost 32 or $33 each and Summit charges 23 each.. I'll just use them to make sure they're going to work as I'm going to need to make another order anyways so no sense in giving away my money.. I'm tired of hearing that brick and mortar store story... They can either price match online or get nothing but a big hassle...
 
j par said:
Everything I see on every jet chart has the fuel four or five thousands smaller?? ..
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Strange as most places I looked they all had the F jet larger. Apparently the 2nd stage NOS jetting chart had them square, the third 5 sizes smaller for F jet. Most reckon up to 8>10 sizes smaller for F jet, that would be at 6psi I reckon and how good delivery is, the fuel your using and how much you take out as once you start getting into a real "clean" hit timing is more important than fuel delivery. If your lean with the combo it will just not make the power, if your too hard up on timing it'll first do a plug if your lucky and then a piston/s. But don't let all that concern you too much as at your level (150 max) its not going to happen, I'm talking about 250+shots.
 
Hot Metal said:
Strange as most places I looked they all had the F jet larger. Apparently the 2nd stage NOS jetting chart had them square, the third 5 sizes smaller for F jet. Most reckon up to 8>10 sizes smaller for F jet, that would be at 6psi I reckon and how good delivery is, the fuel your using and how much you take out as once you start getting into a real "clean" hit timing is more important than fuel delivery. If your lean with the combo it will just not make the power, if your too hard up on timing it'll first do a plug if your lucky and then a piston/s. But don't let all that concern you too much as at your level (150 max) its not going to happen, I'm talking about 250+shots.
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Yes it can all get quite confusing!.. I do have forged pistons so that will help a little bit but on the other hand I have pretty high compression as well which isn't a great thing for nitrous.. I'll definitely back the timing off an extra degree or two beyond the couple that I already will for my first ever hit and then creep back up on the timing... I just pulled up the Edelbrock chart and everything they're saying is one to one the jet sizes..:BangHead:...
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I'm not sure if this says it but it goes on to read that they do everything at a six to six and a half pounds of fuel pressure...
let me pause here and take another moment to have a heavy laugh at the people who think they're just going to slap some nitrous on their car and go fast LOL... :rofl:...
 
I'd invest in some pin gauges and pin gauge EVERY SINGLE JET no matter what number is on them.

Seen several tune ups go sideways because of incorrectly marked jets. And not just on nitrous stuff.

I used to pin gauge all my jets and nozzles with MFI to weed out the junk.
 
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