Nitrous plumbing A1A...??..

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I was wondering after I got everything completely hooked up if I couldn't take the carburetors off and try a small nitrous shot with the engine obviously off? Assume I'm just giving a shot of air anyways and after a few minutes it would just dissipate? The plates will be locked down by the 2in spacers anyways? I could even do this with the fuel side as well it seems?
I guess if I got real tricky I could slip some kind of piece of plastic under the plate so nothing got in the motor..

Personally I would just check the spray patterns off the engine. The nitrous would safely dissipate if you give it time, but the fuel could wash some lube off the cylinder walls and make it into the crankcase. Be sure to bolt the plate to a manifold before testing the nitrous side, put 950psi to the bar and that plate can get pretty wild if it isn't bolted down :)

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I use "Dean's Ultra Plugs" pretty much everywhere in my nitrous systems, commonly used for power connections on radio controlled cars/planes. Very small and vibration resistant, able to handle 60a continuous. Makes it easy to disconnect/test solenoids or switches, also makes it easy to tap in between the connectors to add switches or data connections later. They only make the one style ultra plug, so I color code my connections with colored ti-straps to make sure everything gets plugged back in correctly when I take things apart. Hobby shops also have some really fine silicone covered "spaghetti wire" that's super flexible (expensive too), I use it on everything that's attached to the engine.

Grant
 
Personally I would just check the spray patterns off the engine. The nitrous would safely dissipate if you give it time, but the fuel could wash some lube off the cylinder walls and make it into the crankcase. Be sure to bolt the plate to a manifold before testing the nitrous side, put 950psi to the bar and that plate can get pretty wild if it isn't bolted down :)

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I use "Dean's Ultra Plugs" pretty much everywhere in my nitrous systems, commonly used for power connections on radio controlled cars/planes. Very small and vibration resistant, able to handle 60a continuous. Makes it easy to disconnect/test solenoids or switches, also makes it easy to tap in between the connectors to add switches or data connections later. They only make the one style ultra plug, so I color code my connections with colored ti-straps to make sure everything gets plugged back in correctly when I take things apart. Hobby shops also have some really fine silicone covered "spaghetti wire" that's super flexible (expensive too), I use it on everything that's attached to the engine.

Grant
Right now this is my biggest concern that these nitrous plates do not seem to be directional whatsoever? They seem to possibly just came straight out words not in a down position? this could be just something that I end up sending back here pretty soon if I can't get any confirmation..
 
I was just assuming at 3 k + RPM that it didn't matter that much as they're a bit drawd words pretty big time??
 
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That's how I would have took care of it in my younger days..
What's the certification date on that bottle that sitting in your spare room?..


I finally checked my bottles today. 9-15 so I better fill them quick if I’m going to use them. If I like it I will get a mother bottle. Lots to read and learn. I gotta figure this thing out too.
 
There is nothing wrong with spray bars pointing straight out. The older systems worked just fine with configuration.
Do not test the nitrous into an engine that is not running. It takes a while to dissipate and that dense oxygen-rich environment you created takes way less ignition source to light off. That will make for a really nice big boom. Only activate the nitrous side while engine is running under load and you'll always be safe. Activating at idle sometimes stalls the intake charge and causes an impressive backfire resulting in damage. Big boom.
If you want to test the plate off the car, follow previous suggestion to secure it or it will try to move unpredictably.
The only reason all the jetting info is confusing is because you are mixing brands of components. That's fine, but now it's hard to know what tune to start with. If your plates came with a jetting chart, stick to the chart to stay on the safe side of things. After it's been tested a few times, then you can start adjusting jetting if you want. At that point, increase the nitrous jet size to lean it out, then you'll get all power available from the fuel you introduced. Just don't get greedy and go excessively lean or cylinder temperature climbs quickly. That's where parts damage starts to occur.
 
There is nothing wrong with spray bars pointing straight out. The older systems worked just fine with configuration.
Do not test the nitrous into an engine that is not running. It takes a while to dissipate and that dense oxygen-rich environment you created takes way less ignition source to light off. That will make for a really nice big boom. Only activate the nitrous side while engine is running under load and you'll always be safe. Activating at idle sometimes stalls the intake charge and causes an impressive backfire resulting in damage. Big boom.
If you want to test the plate off the car, follow previous suggestion to secure it or it will try to move unpredictably.
The only reason all the jetting info is confusing is because you are mixing brands of components. That's fine, but now it's hard to know what tune to start with. If your plates came with a jetting chart, stick to the chart to stay on the safe side of things. After it's been tested a few times, then you can start adjusting jetting if you want. At that point, increase the nitrous jet size to lean it out, then you'll get all power available from the fuel you introduced. Just don't get greedy and go excessively lean or cylinder temperature climbs quickly. That's where parts damage starts to occur.
Excellent stuff thank you for your input on the subject! I have the longer stemmed jets that came with the plates. I assume there NOS brand knock-offs.. then as I do my research they also crossover to Edelbrock as well? I posted the picture of the jet sizes that they came with and not only are they too big they're not individually marked so who knows what they threw and what bag? I'm really not trusting those whatsoever.. I'm trying to save money but I'm not trying to save so much money that I blow up my expensive motor LOL.. actually those plates are about the only thing that I did save money on..
 
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I finally checked my bottles today. 9-15 so I better fill them quick if I’m going to use them. If I like it I will get a mother bottle. Lots to read and learn. I gotta figure this thing out too.
Locally here they cost $40 to get recertified with about a 24-hour turnaround... I'll be definitely doing that as I'm not going to play with safety..
Wait till you start reading a lot about it and start putting different cams in your car for more exhaust duration to get the heat out blah blah blah.. lol.. it's pretty hard to wrap your head around all the information out there and get what's best for you..
 
In my opinion, nitrous is really safe and user friendly if you treat it right. You will quickly learn that most of the internet chatter and warnings are unfounded.
If you add more horsepower than your mechanical components can withstand, you'll have catastrophic failure.
If you get greedy and go excessively lean or add too much timing, you damage parts, just like tuning any engine for high performance use.
Just think of your nitrous system as totally separate tune, just like tuning a carb. If the engine is tuned properly naturally aspirasted, the only change when spraying nitrous is the timing and the fuel octane. Fuel octane is just chosen based on how much total power you want to make, or should we say cylinder pressure and temperature once everything is activated.
 
There is nothing wrong with spray bars pointing straight out. The older systems worked just fine with configuration.
Do not test the nitrous into an engine that is not running. It takes a while to dissipate and that dense oxygen-rich environment you created takes way less ignition source to light off. That will make for a really nice big boom. Only activate the nitrous side while engine is running under load and you'll always be safe. Activating at idle sometimes stalls the intake charge and causes an impressive backfire resulting in damage. Big boom.
If you want to test the plate off the car, follow previous suggestion to secure it or it will try to move unpredictably.
The only reason all the jetting info is confusing is because you are mixing brands of components. That's fine, but now it's hard to know what tune to start with. If your plates came with a jetting chart, stick to the chart to stay on the safe side of things. After it's been tested a few times, then you can start adjusting jetting if you want. At that point, increase the nitrous jet size to lean it out, then you'll get all power available from the fuel you introduced. Just don't get greedy and go excessively lean or cylinder temperature climbs quickly. That's where parts damage starts to occur.
Also with all that nitrous pressure and a Purge kit I'm confident that I'm going to get my nitrous shot. I was wondering what you think of a separate solenoid controller for the fuel side to kind of purge it and get fuel in the lines as that is the part that I'm a little more concerned about? I would like a small full circulating tank under the hood with a pressure gauge but also I was thinking of being able to hit the button and just watch it go rich just for a second? Of course while it's running to burn it away..
 
Just to be cool spray the purge out the radio antenna.
 
No experience with horizontal spray bars. I'm thinking they could result in lower air speed thru the carb, where a more directional downward spray could help pack a little more in. Nitrous spraying into the fuel also breaks the fuel streams into a finer mist. Are the plates marked up/down?

Grant
 
Pittsburgh racer will benefits from a proper camshaft since his will be a dedicated race car. That will require way more attention to detail, since his engine already has greatly increased cylinder pressure and cylinder temperature.
Jpar's use is at an entry level like mine, so dropping the nitrous kit on an existing street/strip setup will be more forgiving, as long as the basic guidelines of fuel and timing are followed to start with. You'll see when you get the estimated 100 or 150 HP added to your combo that it's not impressive to bring it on toward the top of a gear, like top of second gear as mentioned somewhere in this thread. Everybody talks horsepower, but the torque increase is what's really impressive and feels great on a street strip car. My junk is automatic transmissions, so I activate everything with a full throttle switch. I do have to launch on motor at 3/4 quarter throttle to keep the nitrous from activating or it will blow the tires off every time. Once it's rolling out ten or twenty feet, or whatever it is, I go full throttle, the nitrous activates, and it stays hooked up and really aggressively accelerates. I do not use a progressive controller, which would basically take over my entire launch routine.
 
In my opinion, nitrous is really safe and user friendly if you treat it right. You will quickly learn that most of the internet chatter and warnings are unfounded.
If you add more horsepower than your mechanical components can withstand, you'll have catastrophic failure.
If you get greedy and go excessively lean or add too much timing, you damage parts, just like tuning any engine for high performance use.
Just think of your nitrous system as totally separate tune, just like tuning a carb. If the engine is tuned properly naturally aspirasted, the only change when spraying nitrous is the timing and the fuel octane. Fuel octane is just chosen based on how much total power you want to make, or should we say cylinder pressure and temperature once everything is activated.
Right now under normal operation I have to run 92 octane with about 1/4 110 Sunoco just to get it to turn off correctly and not run on.. my plan has always been to run 110 Sunoco in the small nitrous tank... I believe I'm working with pretty safe numbers here and I have pretty good components.. again thank you for everything you've added and anything else you can think of..
 
No experience with horizontal spray bars. I'm thinking they could result in lower air speed thru the carb, where a more directional downward spray could help pack a little more in. Nitrous spraying into the fuel also breaks the fuel streams into a finer mist. Are the plates marked up/down?

Grant
No markings on my plates... remember that's the spot where I cheaped out and bought the Speedmaster plates but they came with lines and solenoid mounting brackets and jets that I won't use LOL and also a mounting kit for the bottle as well.. $44 I couldn't pass it up for at least a try... Even if I have toss the plates the rest of it was worth $44 each... But I'm thinking at my small shot level and just for introduction I should be okay... When I get more aggressive with it maybe next year I can get into timing control boxes and better distribution plates..
 
I just ran into a possible first plumbing problem.. each kit came with two lines one is about 11 and 1/2 in in one is about 8 and 1/4 in.. at first I was thinking I could hook one of each 2 each solenoid but now I'm thinking 1 car would get fuel sooner and one card would get nitrous sooner? Or is it such a little difference that it shouldn't make a difference? We're probably talking milliseconds here??..
I'll shoot a picture or two.. I'm trying to orient these lines so they'll make it from the front of one carburetor to the back of the other carburetor for 1 T fitting and the opposite for the other? if I do one of each it seems to work out kind of evenly where are the solenoids may go..
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Or are they trying to make the fuel come quicker because it doesn't have as much pressure?..
 
No need for a fuel purge. Liquid fuel flows easily since it's not trying to evaporate all the time.
Nitrous oxide is kept at high pressure just keep it from evaporating. In the bottle, the liquid is at the bottom and gas obviously rises to the top. That is why there is a siphon tube in the bottom, so you get the liquid delivered up to your solenoid. But as nitrous sits in the line, even for just an hour, it starts evaporating. When it evaporates you still have pressure in the line as a gas, but no liquid. Now when you activate your system you have ambient temperature gas being injected instead of liquid that instantly evaporates and super-cools the intake charge. I am sure some escapes the system too, but mainly you lose the super-cooling effect that normally happens, so your now your air/fuel/nitrous charge takes up more space inside the intake manifold and slows down the airspeed. Bog, hesitation, and stumbling are the result. Then the liquid finally reaches the solenoid and passes through the jet, hits the ambient temperature intake charge, instantly evaporates which starts super-cooling the charge, and it finally reaches it tune potential and starts pulling hard.
Same thing happens if the bottle pressure gets too low, you lose nitrous delivery effectiveness and it falls on it's face.
So, now that everyone stopped reading this excessively long sequence of posts, I finally get to the point; nitrous purge is specifically to ensure liquid nitrous is ready at the solenoid and not at too high a pressure which will lean out the tune.
I don't use a purge system at all because I don't care to show it off. I actually just do a quick full throttle dry hop while driving to purge my basic plate system. Pittsburghracer will undoubtedly run a purge system on his because the tune will be so critical. He may even need a second tank to maintain high enough pressure to prevent his system going very rich during a run, because of the drop in bottle pressure when that much nitrous comes out of the bottle quickly. Simple bottle heaters don't keep up during a run, they just bring it back up to pressure after sitting a while heating gently.
 
I delay the nitrous hit until the clutch is almost locked up. If you look at data graphs very long, you will notice that the car actually accelerates at a faster rate while the clutch is pulling the engine down. That's basically due to an inertia boost that you get while the rotating assy is losing some of it's stored energy. Using a nitrous delay allows the nitrous to come in on the heels of that inertia boost instead of adding to it, which in-turn makes overall power delivery much smoother for my radials and the no-prep surfaces that I prefer to run on.

I've got a Summit brand window switch in my parts bin that's never been used, yours if you want it.

Grant
 
A little trick I learnt some time ago but never actually used on my stuff was that if your having problems with it at the hit re traction like bobz mentioned you can increase the length of the N lines and it will hit softer, that may answer you re line length.
 
I delay the nitrous hit until the clutch is almost locked up. If you look at data graphs very long, you will notice that the car actually accelerates at a faster rate while the clutch is pulling the engine down. That's basically due to an inertia boost that you get while the rotating assy is losing some of it's stored energy. Using a nitrous delay allows the nitrous to come in on the heels of that inertia boost instead of adding to it, which in-turn makes overall power delivery much smoother for my radials and the no-prep surfaces that I prefer to run on.

I've got a Summit brand window switch in my parts bin that's never been used, yours if you want it.

Grant
Sure! I'm not too proud to get a few things to help me out here.. Cope has made some generous offers himself with some of the a n fittings... I'm just not sure exactly what I need as far as fittings yet and I know they're very expensive I just got back from the store with two small elbows very small elbows that cost well over $60!.. had to pay cash so the wife didn't see it on the credit card... Mind you I don't hide nothing from her but jezzz...
 
A little trick I learnt some time ago but never actually used on my stuff was that if your having problems with it at the hit re traction like bobz mentioned you can increase the length of the N lines and it will hit softer, that may answer you re line length.
I ordered a 8-foot four AN line.. I FIGURED I didn't want to lose much in the line as I don't have a very big hit planned anyways..
 
Honestly your head must be reeling with all this stuff. Believe me at your level don't worry too much and don't get into it too far, you don't need ALL the info out there, most of it is not relevant for you even up to a 250 shot. A good N20 fuel supply, good connections, I step colder plugs perhaps and from the sound of it you must have a lot of cranking psi so watch the timing.
 
Honestly your head must be reeling with all this stuff. Believe me at your level don't worry too much and don't get into it too far, you don't need ALL the info out there, most of it is not relevant for you even up to a 250 shot. A good N20 fuel supply, good connections, I step colder plugs perhaps and from the sound of it you must have a lot of cranking psi so watch the timing.
REELING!... Here's the deep end.....



And I feel I'm way over here! LOL
appreciate your long-winded post as I feel I'm absorbing and learning more and more... I too like to stomp out the internet Boogeyman...
 
I will definitely be doing
I delay the nitrous hit until the clutch is almost locked up. If you look at data graphs very long, you will notice that the car actually accelerates at a faster rate while the clutch is pulling the engine down. That's basically due to an inertia boost that you get while the rotating assy is losing some of it's stored energy. Using a nitrous delay allows the nitrous to come in on the heels of that inertia boost instead of adding to it, which in-turn makes overall power delivery much smoother for my radials and the no-prep surfaces that I prefer to run on.

I've got a Summit brand window switch in my parts bin that's never been used, yours if you want it.

Grant
I'll definitely be doing a lot of testing with the clutch Tamer before the nitrous hits..
I had already imagined wanting the clutch locked up before the hit...

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