Running a converted alternator

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jonnyrose

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I've converted my alternator to one one wire,and I changed out my alternator gauge with a voltage gauge from a 1985 truck,would this diagram be fitting for running the wires from the alternater to the gauge then to the fuse box and ignition

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I am going to say "likely not"

First that diagram is from the MAD article conerning problems with over-loaded electrical systems and the ammeter/ bulkhead connector, read:

Catalog

Second, a 'one wire' alternator gets it's sensing voltage FROM IT'S ONLY ONE WIRE. This means that if the wire is undersized, has poor connections in it's path to the battery, and/ or is operating a lot of load like pumps, fans, etc, the voltage will run LOW to the battery

Normally, a 'one wire' alternator requires MUCH larger charging wire than does conventional systems with external sensing.

What is the rated current of your alternator? 60A or so, I'd use at least no8 wire from alternator to battery, with an appropriate fuse/ link/ breaker, and larger than 60A step it up to no6 wire
 
If you insist on that, the basic diagram you posted tells you. It is actually a simplified diagram of original wiring scheme. You want the battery only on one side of the meter, and "everything else" including the alternator output on the other side I'm not sure the ammeter you mentioned is any better and might be worse. I've seen lots of these with winches, electric plow lifts, or even just off road lights melt the innards of the meter. They look exactly like the one posted on the MAD page I posted
 
Ok I think I'm going to take my conversion off my alternator and just run the factory regulator and go back to the factory wiring specs,the only thing is my alternator is from a 1985 dodge d150,not sure if there's a difference to the 1968
 
Ok I think I'm going to take my conversion off my alternator and just run the factory regulator and go back to the factory wiring specs,the only thing is my alternator is from a 1985 dodge d150,not sure if there's a difference to the 1968
There's two differences I can think of.
1. The '85 alternator uses a ground controlling regulator. Choices are:
a. Ground one of the brushes (field terminals) use a positive controlling regulator (like used originally in '68)
b. Use a later regulator, one from an '85 truck would be best, and run a wire from the second brush to the regulator.
2. The '85 alternator probably has better output at idle - no problem there. And it probably draws more current for the field. That's why I think using the matching regulator is a safer bet.
3. It a tighter fit but should go in. Check the pulley dimension on it. Make sure its close to the orignal.

alternator gauge with a voltage gauge from a 1985 truck
If its a VOLT meter it can not be wired into the battery feed.
VOLTMETER measures the potential to ground.
AMMETER measures flow directly through it or through a remote shunt.

Chrysler labeled most of the ammeters "alternator". The one in your '68 connects in the battery feed/charge line.
IF the one from your '85 truck say alternator or ammeter, it may be a remote shunt unit. If its a remove shunt it gets wired differently.
If the one from your '85 truck says VOLTS, it has to be wired so it had a ground reference and is off with the key off.
 
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^^LOL^^ I may have screwed THAT up. So far as the alternator output difference, there were all sorts of output variances, from 30A or so to 60 or so. The larger output ones are what are hard on your wiring/ bulkhead connector, as in the article.
 
^^LOL^^ I may have screwed THAT up. So far as the alternator output difference, there were all sorts of output variances, from 30A or so to 60 or so. The larger output ones are what are hard on your wiring/ bulkhead connector, as in the article.
LOL. I drove an '87 Dodge masons dump at work for more than two years and couldn't tell you for the life of me what type of gage it had and I do remember looking at it once in while when raising it. It was rusty and would sometimes pop out of 3rd but was great to drive.
 
I changed out my alternator gauge with a voltage gauge from a 1985 truck,
If the guage you have added is a Voltage guage then tie the two wires from the old Amp guage together and tie them to the + side of Volt guage.
Tie the - side of the volt guage to ground. BE SURE the "Volt" guage is really a volt guage.
 
If the guage you have added is a Voltage guage then tie the two wires from the old Amp guage together and tie them to the + side of Volt guage.
Tie the - side of the volt guage to ground. BE SURE the "Volt" guage is really a volt guage.

Sorry no you don't want that either, "but close". The two old ammeter wires are always "hot." You want the voltmeter hooked to a switched source, IE coming from the ignition switch
 
Volt gauge gets a switched hot and a ground. In my car that switched hot is the same blue wire circuit from ignition switch that feeds the voltage regulator(s).
 
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