R&P for A-bodies

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hemicop

hemicop

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There's quite a few kits nowadays to convert the A-body to R&P steering---and all of them expensive, IMO. But back in the day early P/S cars had R&P using over-the-counter parts & retained the torsion bars. Anyone know how to do it or have good detailed pics?
I'm trying to clone an early P/S car and would like to make it as accurate as possible.
 
There is no “easy” rack and pinion conversion that doesn’t completely hammer the steering geometry on these cars. The older conversions that were out there had terrible Ackerman and bump steer. If you want a rack AND you want to have good steering geometry the full coilover front suspension conversions are the only way to do it.
 
The easiest way to power steering is to use one of my steering kits. Although the box is retained, the feel will be thoroughly modern.
 
There's a company named "Gerst" that has a kit for about $3,500 bucks that seems kinda reasonable but I'm thinking if the early P/S cars like S&M, Landy, etc. found a way someone knows something that'll work. Can someone explain to me just why , because some bars are attached to the LCAs that someone can't get the geometry right? I have no problem with coilovers but just how can I keep the LCAs in the car?
 
While I am not positive, the Pro Stock cars probably used a front mounted rack with reversed lower ball joints. That works fine in a straight line application, but it throws the Ackerman completely off. The inner tire needs to turn in farther than the outside. Reverse the lower ball joints and now the outer tire will turn in farther. If you modify the k-member to accept a rear mounted rack you will be unlikely to find an oil pan that will work, but you can always go to a dry sump or a custom oil pan. Then there's the problem of finding exactly the right rack that will not contribute to bump steer or other issues.
 
Jim Lusk said:
While I am not positive, the Pro Stock cars probably used a front mounted rack with reversed lower ball joints. That works fine in a straight line application, but it throws the Ackerman completely off. The inner tire needs to turn in farther than the outside. Reverse the lower ball joints and now the outer tire will turn in farther. If you modify the k-member to accept a rear mounted rack you will be unlikely to find an oil pan that will work, but you can always go to a dry sump or a custom oil pan. Then there's the problem of finding exactly the right rack that will not contribute to bump steer or other issues.
Click to expand...

Exactly!!!

Running a front mounted rack with the steering arms reversed was pretty common for the drag only cars for awhile. But the Ackerman is a disaster. For a strip only car it’s manageable, the big issues are all with turning. But on a car that sees any street time it’s a really bad idea. Personally I don’t think it’s a great idea on a drag car either, if things get sideways you’re fighting the car and the Ackerman. If everything goes straight life’s good, but the further it steps out the more the poor Ackerman will hurt your recovery.
 
HDK makes a great kit for around 3K.HDK Bolt-in Coil-Over Conversion Kit
You can get it from HemiDenny directly, or from PST, (10% off to FABO members)

F142751050.jpg
 
The early 70's Pro Stock cars that added R/P did so adding them to the hollow K frame center, flipping the lower steering arms side for side, and adding/welding a bracket to the frame rail to support the rear of the LCA.

However.....they pretty much ran on the stops, limiting suspension travel to a fraction of an inch which resulted in very limited bump steer since the suspension was hardly moving. To try to help the negative ackerman issue, it appears the steering arms were heated and bent outward as far as the rim or brake components would allow. Great pics available in old CarCrafts and Hot Rods when they would feature new Pro Stock builds often. The one that comes to mind is a CarCraft with the 72 Motown Missile and team on the cover.

IF you wanted to clone a early pro Stock, that is the way to do it.....look cool , but not much fun to drive or turn.
 
Thanks,all! It looks like I'll be spending some $$$$$$ to get it right...…….
 
R&P would be nice but I would be hard pressed to give up my torsion bars. They're not only a really cool design that can be made to work incredibly well, they're part of the character of the car.

If I wanted a car that drove like a modern car, I would buy a modern car. I'm more interested in making my Dart drive well...while still being a Mopar A-Body.

Just my opinion.
 
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