727 Build for Mid-10s

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Well then ur good. I have never had a tranny puke out the front vent in all my years. Kim
Kim have you run a transbrake before.
I am told that when the brake is on and the motor is on the converter hard, that the fluid temp rises something like 50 degrees per second. It is very easy to get the fluid too hot and it will expand
and possibly burp or overflow in some situations.
 
I just put 1 in last summer. Had it for a few drives and it seems good. My buddy has a Cope tranny with brake. I refreshed it. A few years ago. It does not have the front drum drilled or the pump plugged. I will be checking it over later this month so I’ll try to remember to take pics. It had over 400 runs on it. Some with nos. Kim
 
I cleaned up the rusty input shaft best I could. Do you think this pitted area warrants swapping shafts with the other one I've got??? Will this hold up to 600-650 hp? Keep in mind the hub on the clean shaft has the messed up clutch splines. Is it worth swapping the good shaft with the good hub?

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I cleaned up the rusty input shaft best I could. Do you think this pitted area warrants swapping shafts with the other one I've got??? Will this hold up to 600-650 hp? Keep in mind the hub on the clean shaft has the messed up clutch splines. Is it worth swapping the good shaft with the good hub?

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That rusted shaft looks like it has a manufacturing flaw to me and it looks twisted.
I would not use it. Ideally another shaft would be best but if the choice is one of the two, I would use the one with the slight wear on the spline. It's not ideal but it probable will run fine. You could probably use a smooth honing stone and smooth down the marks or any burrs. IMHO
 
How strong is the press fit on those input shaft/hub assemblies? Is it something I can get done with a 12 ton press?
 
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Worried about the wrong thing..

Yeah, I tend to over-analyze stuff.

I did start cleaning up all of the parts today and started removing the old bushings. Any tips or tricks for removing the input shaft pilot bushing? What about the reaction shaft bushing? Those are the two I'm having trouble with without the proper tools.
 
An improperly installed bushing is worse than a worn bushing.

I hear ya. Most of them were worn pretty bad, so I just bought the bushing kit. I'll probably take the stator and input shaft to the shop to have those ones done, since I can;t figure out an easy way to removing those particular bushings. The others are pretty straight forward.
 
Kevlar is supposed to be better. It both will do a good job. More importantly is to have a solid front band when building for performance. Kim
 
Stupid question - Any idea what the small ball at rear end of the input shaft is for - the end for the output shaft pilot?

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I finally got most of the parts in the mail and started assembling the sub-assemblies.

While installing the bushings, one question came up, I noticed the new tailshaft bushing has two notches on one end. I realize the hole in the middle has to line up with the oiling notch in the extension housing. Does it matter how the notches are oriented (towards the rear or front of the trans)?

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Well, I finally got may parts ordered and delivered. A couple of them (billet steel clutch and rear clutch apply piston) were on back order. After dry fitting the clutch packs, I found I only have .018" clearance in the front drum with 5 regular thickness clutches and .088" snap ring. Since I'm shooting for .080"-.095", I need an additional .062" - .077". Could I simply replace two of the .095" clutches with thin .062" clutches? That would put me right at .084".

Otherwise, what else do you recommend to find that additional .062" - .077" clearance??

Thanks!
 
I always use the thin Red Eagles everywhere so I can squeeze an extra friction and steel into the front drum. Ya can't use stock thins cuz they can't take the heat. The forward clutch is applied at under 1k rpm, but the direct can hit 6-7k and up. Another reason the kits they sell aren't really the way to go. Five thin reds is about $40.
 
I always use the thin Red Eagles everywhere so I can squeeze an extra friction and steel into the front drum. Ya can't use stock thins cuz they can't take the heat. The forward clutch is applied at under 1k rpm, but the direct can hit 6-7k and up. Another reason the kits they sell aren't really the way to go. Five thin reds is about $40.

Unfortunately, I've already got 5 stock .095" frictions (alto reds) because I was told the billet steel drum I bought was designed to use that arrangement with a stock piston. Sounds like the options are either to (1) have the pressure plate machined thinner and maybe use a thinner snap ring, or (2) replace two of the thick frictions with thins? Just seems weird to have thicks and thins in the same clutch drum.

Since I don't have access to a lathe, I'll have to see what a machine shop would charge to take .030" -.040" off the pressure plate. Maybe that can be done on a brake lathe?

Thanks for the input guys!
 
Unfortunately, I've already got 5 stock .095" frictions (alto reds) because I was told the billet steel drum I bought was designed to use that arrangement with a stock piston. Sounds like the options are either to (1) have the pressure plate machined thinner and maybe use a thinner snap ring, or (2) replace two of the thick frictions with thins? Just seems weird to have thicks and thins in the same clutch drum.

Since I don't have access to a lathe, I'll have to see what a machine shop would charge to take .030" -.040" off the pressure plate. Maybe that can be done on a brake lathe?

Thanks for the input guys!
Surface grinder would be best, preferably a rotary style.
 
I'm in luck! Turns out A&A sells pressures in various thicknesses for only $20. They've got one that's .207" as opposed to the stock .275". That'll leave me with .086" clearance in theory, which is right in the 80-95 thou range CRT recommended.

Another minor victory today - With some creative grinding and my drill press, I was able to clearance and drill the case to use all 6 bolts on the Ultimate sprag. No costly jig necessary. On to assembly...

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I just didn't know where to start; so much wrong in that sentence. So..you want to pay a machine shop to grind the top plate rather than spend the same amount for the thin reds? You can mix thin and thick reds. Did somebody really mention the piston? And somebody said the drum was "designed" for five plates? Check out the description in eBay item number:
140082616713
 
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