Johnson Roller Lifters

-

gtsdon

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2012
Messages
47
Reaction score
36
Location
Hampton VA
Anyone using Johnson solid roller lifters in a small block? If so, how are they holding up? Any quality or performance issues? I am considering using a set in my street and strip 416 build. They are advertised as a drop in lifter with no oiling modifications required.
 
They are everything as advertised. I purchased mine from Scorpion Race products. Great deal for the money. As for longevity I am unsure as I only have 47 dyno pulls on them--but no issues. J.Rob
 
RAISE THE DEAD!
How about an update on these lifters? Been 8 years now, anyone have more input on longevity?
 
Which Johnson?
Both Johnson Lifter and Hylift Johnson make their own products.
 
I run the drop in bam m ones that Mel used to sell so far they have held up great with no issues
 
Does johnson make their own lifters?
Pics of said lifters?
These.

2879BB6C-4773-40ED-843F-36F199B54C95.png
 
Like the wheel not fully exposed.
It's nice a arched for an aggressive profile..but its not gonna bleed off the lifter galley pressure...which was the issue for mopars more than the countersink lifter bores.
 
Like the wheel not fully exposed.
It's nice a arched for an aggressive profile..but its not gonna bleed off the lifter galley pressure...which was the issue for mopars more than the countersink lifter bores.
The lifter bleed is not a factor for me as the block is tubed. I also like the “skirted” wheel but it doesn’t state wheel diameter or if it’s bushed or bearing. Think I’ll give them a call. More to follow.
 
Here’s the rest of that listing.

I don’t think they’re made anymore....... or at least not sold by them(CP) anymore.

Carefully read the description, and then decide if that works in your application.

66821455-2066-470A-9D86-523738971E9D.png
 
Carefully read the description, and then decide if that works in your application.
Are you implying that the quality is questionable? Would you run them? Just curious b/c I’m aware of your experience and respect your opinion.
My application is factory 340 block W2 heads, 75/25 street/strip.
 
I would only run then on something that could get away with rather modest spring loads.
And that would only be if they were still being produced.

If they don’t make them anymore, I’d pass.
You never know when a situation might arise where you need a replacement part.
 
I would only run then on something that could get away with rather modest spring loads.
And that would only be if they were still being produced.

If they don’t make them anymore, I’d pass.
You never know when a situation might arise where you need a replacement part.

K800 spring
195 lbs seat 495@.500 with your average 1.750 installed height.
 
K800 spring
195 lbs seat 495@.500 with your average 1.750 installed height.

I wouldn’t use them with that spring load, or with a cam that required that spring load.
I’m not a fan of the “proprietary formula cast iron body”.

I can see where they’d probably be okay for something like a Comp 20-701-9 camshaft, and the recommended spring that goes with it.

If I were building something with a solid roller cam, it’s getting lifters with steel bodies.

Those Johnson rollers might be the best thing since sliced bread....... but I’m not going to find out on one of my own builds.
 
The Scorpion badged ones are no longer available, Scorpion stopped selling Mopar lifters.

However they were just rebadged Johnson's, which are still available.

3316SB SMALL BLOCK CHRYSLER
 
It looks like they changed to the v-style link bar. I assume there is a bunch of grinding involved to make the straight bar ones fit in a LA block.


I’m not sure you could get a straight bar in a stock smallblock without hitting water. I wouldn’t try to run one.
 
I’m not sure you could get a straight bar in a stock smallblock without hitting water. I wouldn’t try to run one.
Interesting. Perhaps the picture on the CP website is just a stock photo (not actual product). The pic on the Johnson site has the v-link. I guess a phone call is in order to clarify.
 
Interesting. Perhaps the picture on the CP website is just a stock photo (not actual product). The pic on the Johnson site has the v-link. I guess a phone call is in order to clarify.


Big blocks use a straight bar and they can be installed in either direction with the preferred direction being the link bar towards the cam.
 
You want a solid bushing lifter with high spring pressures and a wheel bigger than .750 IMHO. Open your wallet WIDE.
 
self guided lifters available to what?
1.031 with a big wheel
why not
about what you'd bore for a bushing
and do the cam tunnel when you line bore if you are going to a billet cam core
 
Having a hard time finding any specs on these.
From Yellowbullet:

DF5DEC90-36B3-4301-9910-1CA4B85F1F44.png


AE18BE54-82DC-4016-83A0-7DE973FAC2AD.jpeg

This is from a very old thread on yellowbullet but looks like they have a .700” wheel.
 
You want a solid bushing lifter with high spring pressures and a wheel bigger than .750 IMHO. Open your wallet WIDE.

That would ideal. I agree.

But a .700-.750 wheel solid roller would still be an upgrade power wise from flat tap.
 
That would ideal. I agree.

But a .700-.750 wheel solid roller would still be an upgrade power wise from flat tap.
I’m not going to speculate on the difference in power between using a roller versus a flat tappet but it’s probably not felt in the seat of the pants. My reason for leaning towards the roller is to avoid the bad reputation of flat tappet lifters as of late. Seems I’m seeing more and more lifter failures. Is this due to inferior production, difference in today’s oils, or operator error?
 
-
Back
Top