Pivot shaft problems

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DentalDart

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Ok so this has happened 2x now. I install the bushing on the shaft, install LCA and slightly tighten on the nut then boom the nut won't unthread or loosen. This only happens on the drivers side.

With 2 different shafts and 2 different nuts; the nut has gotten stuck (maybe cross threaded?) And won't come off. When I try backing it off the shaft/bushing spin in the lca and start taking the bushing out of the lca. I dont use power tools on the car, everything is done by hand tools as I like having a feel for how tight things are getting.

Have I done something wrong? Will it be different if I have the torsion bar in?

20200212_191212.jpg
 
Hi Doc

I assume the nut is a lock nut. That would explain the nut not going on more with out more force.
What I don't know is what would hold the shaft whole turning the nut.

Have you consulted the FSM for a procedure or special tool?
 
Are making sure the pivot shaft is bottomed out in the hole while tightening the nut? Try tapping it lightly to seat it in the socket in the k member. I think it’s best
to install the torsion bars and assemble the suspension and tires and get the weight of the car on
it before tightening the pivot shaft nut.
 
You using rubber or polly bushings ? I changed mine using new rubber ones from PST and had no issues. The nuts are cinch nuts but went on ok. If your using polly ( I haven't used those ) but hear they can spin in the LCA.
 
You using rubber or polly bushings ? I changed mine using new rubber ones from PST and had no issues. The nuts are cinch nuts but went on ok. If your using polly ( I haven't used those ) but hear they can spin in the LCA.

Poly bushings. The PST kit.

I also read the fsm, it says to set car on the ground before tightening all of the suspension.

I'll install the torsion bar and then see if that helps it from spinning. It's the little things like this that keep holding me up, so frustrating.
 
Not a poly guy, but same rules apply a bit. Is the K-Frame in good shape? Is the pin receiver broken from the K or otherwise damaged?
 
Not to rain on your parade but I have heard bad things on the polly bushing. Like they deteriorate fast.
 
Not a poly guy, but same rules apply a bit. Is the K-Frame in good shape? Is the pin receiver broken from the K or otherwise damaged?

From what I can see the k-frame is in good shape, some scratches but nothing I would otherwise worry about.

I'll try with the Tbar in and see how it goes later. Watching the avalanche hockey game right now.
 
From what I can see the k-frame is in good shape, some scratches but nothing I would otherwise worry about.

I'll try with the Tbar in and see how it goes later. Watching the avalanche hockey game right now.


Good plan!
 
I have read that too about the squeaking, but after going back and forth and calling PST they said their polygraphite wouldn't squeak. Heres to hoping that is true! If not, I'll just have to run a louder exhaust to not hear the squeaking lol :lol:
 
With the Poly insert type bushing, it will be hard to tighten without the pin turning with hand tools. I would rather use the OEM type lower bushing.
 
Not to rain on your parade but I have heard bad things on the polly bushing. Like they deteriorate fast.

Does that mean I get to replace it all again in a couple years? Maybe go with something more crazy next time? Like IFS? Maybe when I'm rich and famous :rofl:
 
Does that mean I get to replace it all again in a couple years? Maybe go with something more crazy next time? Like IFS? Maybe when I'm rich and famous :rofl:

Don’t know about the rich part but you be famous with them squeaky bushings:lol:
 
I remember the first car I had in high school, 65 mustang. I put some coil overload springs on the rear shocks to get it jacked up. Girl friend said she could hear me coming a mile away:steering:
 
I tried to ban Barney when my daughter's were little... Miss that big purple dinasour
 
I tried to ban Barney when my daughter's were little... Miss that big purple dinasour

Bet you miss watching that little purple dinasour with your daughter more. Barney will come on and you will smile like there is no tomorrow thinking of the times you watched him with her. That's jojo siwa for me. When shes in the garage or in the car, I smile listening to jojo, watching her sing and dance along.
 
Ok so this has happened 2x now. I install the bushing on the shaft, install LCA and slightly tighten on the nut then boom the nut won't unthread or loosen. This only happens on the drivers side.

With 2 different shafts and 2 different nuts; the nut has gotten stuck (maybe cross threaded?) And won't come off. When I try backing it off the shaft/bushing spin in the lca and start taking the bushing out of the lca. I dont use power tools on the car, everything is done by hand tools as I like having a feel for how tight things are getting.

Have I done something wrong? Will it be different if I have the torsion bar in?

View attachment 1715469817

This is what I have been telling all of you about the poly bushings being junk. Look at the picture and swallow your words. " no They can't move back the struts hold them in" LMFAO Lube it up a little more with a pin with a grease fitting. It may walk front and back a little easier and not squeak.
 
Not to rain on your parade but I have heard bad things on the polly bushing. Like they deteriorate fast.

and squeak a lot:lol:

Properly installed and cared for poly bushings will outlast rubber and not squeak.

Poly bushings MUST be lubricated. They are not like rubber, it’s a very different material. If they are not lubricated they will squeak, and they will deteriorate. I have been running poly bushings for tens of thousands of miles and over a decade. If you install and maintain them properly they’ll last the life of your car.

To that end, I always install grease-able pivots when I use poly LCA bushings. And adjustable strut rods, but that’s not for the life of the poly bushings.

Ok so this has happened 2x now. I install the bushing on the shaft, install LCA and slightly tighten on the nut then boom the nut won't unthread or loosen. This only happens on the drivers side.

With 2 different shafts and 2 different nuts; the nut has gotten stuck (maybe cross threaded?) And won't come off. When I try backing it off the shaft/bushing spin in the lca and start taking the bushing out of the lca. I dont use power tools on the car, everything is done by hand tools as I like having a feel for how tight things are getting.

Have I done something wrong? Will it be different if I have the torsion bar in?

View attachment 1715469817

I haven’t used PST’s polygraphite bushings, but if they’re anything like regular poly bushings you’re not going to be able to torque them to spec with hand tools alone. The poly bushings spin in the shells and on the pivot pins long before you get develop enough torque to hold them.

I use a 3/8 impact to rattle the pivot nuts down until they catch the pins and put enough torque on them to hold them in place for the final torque.

Also, if the PST bushings are like the poly bushings that slide into the old outer shells, they don’t need to be torqued at ride height. Rubber, OE style bushings have to be tightened like that because they don’t spin in the shells or on the pivots and will tear if torqued at full extension and then are cycled all the way through to full compression. Poly bushings spin, so the LCA position when they’re tightened is irrelevant.

This is what I have been telling all of you about the poly bushings being junk. Look at the picture and swallow your words. " no They can't move back the struts hold them in" LMFAO Lube it up a little more with a pin with a grease fitting. It may walk front and back a little easier and not squeak.

For a guy that’s had 40 a-bodies, you’re completely clueless on how their suspension actually works and can be modified. Your understanding of how a poly bushing actually functions is appalling.

Poly bushings do not function like rubber. They can not be installed or maintained as such. Properly installed and cared for they’re far superior to rubber. If yours weren’t, you did it wrong. Period. Doesn’t matter how long you’ve been doing it if you’re still making the same mistakes as 40 years back.

Now post a picture of someone else’s drag car with a completely hammered Ackerman and pass it off like you should know what you’re talking about again.
 
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The aftermarket pivot shaft nuts are sometimes locknuts - either nylon insert of slightly deformed on the end.
 
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