Torsion bar setting

-
M

MikeU

New Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2020
Messages
4
Reaction score
1
Location
Hereford,AZ
I am disassembling the steering and suspension of a '72 Duster. I heard in a recent video that the present factory setting of the torsion bar should be denoted prior to doing this disassembly. Exactly where does one look to see what the pre-disassembly setting is? I'm sure this is very critical and should be done prior to disassembly.
 
IMHO, you really need to acquire a factory service manual to reference before taking this project on.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
You surely need to replace them on the correct side. The bars are marked R and L on the ends.
Click to expand...
My question concerns viewing the torsion bars before the existing K member is tampered with to ensure the twist was denoted. I may be worried about nothing but never had anything to do with torsion bars.
 
The torsion bars have to come out first before the K-member. But you need to relieve the pressure off of them first. Like others have stated. You really need to get the FSM before you start working on it.
 
Yes there is a left and a right, (stamped in from the factory with numbers at the back of torsion bars) can mark each torsion bar at just in front of the the transmission cross member with a yellow parts pen L & R. Then you know which is L and R and which end is front and which end is back.

For taking them out Lube up the Adjuster Bolt with the 3/4" head (in the lower control arms) with penetrating oil a few days in advance to get them loosening up. Get the car up on jack stands. Then you can Count 5 Full Turns to loosen up the L & R Adjuster Bolts. This will take the tension off the torsion bar spring action to you can pull them out from the back. Then when you reassemble crank the adjuster bolts 5 Full Turns back up again to get the riding height of the car back to where it was before. Then you can final adjust the riding height of the car at the end of getting your car completely assembled, engine and all. Now you are ready to do the final front end alignment so it goes down the road straight and does not ware out your tires.

Be careful not to scratch the outside of your torsion bars with a Vice Grip or other tools as you are prying them out. There is an outer surface tension on the torsion bars and scratching or scoring them can give them a place to start to crack, so be careful there.

Good Luck, well on your way.
 
Measure the height of the adjuster bolt to the anchor in the control arm, or count the number of threads showing. Should get you close to the same setting.
 
Demonic said:
Measure the height of the adjuster bolt to the anchor in the control arm, or count the number of threads showing. Should get you close to the same setting.
Click to expand...

Good advice so far here. I always measure from the center of the front wheel opening to the ground, so I can set the ride height on reassembly. I always drive around the block between changes to let the suspension settle before remeasuring.

Also, take pictures before and during disassembly, and don't turn the adjuster screws with the car's weight on the suspension.
 
Depending on whether you like the ride height the car is at or not determines whether you should care where the height adjustment bolt is at this time. The car will need to be aligned when you are done so you really don't need to worry about it either way.
 
MikeU said:
I am disassembling the steering and suspension of a '72 Duster. I heard in a recent video that the present factory setting of the torsion bar should be denoted prior to doing this disassembly. Exactly where does one look to see what the pre-disassembly setting is? I'm sure this is very critical and should be done prior to disassembly.
Click to expand...
Nothing critical to check before taking apart. As said. read up on the details in FSM. If you don't have one they are on Mymopar.com. Make sure your bars are correct and L and R on correct sides. Driver side =Left. Be sure the suspension is relaxed/hanging down when bars are put back in or you wont get enough adjustment. There is no clocking on factory bars.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top