Ever had self adjusting brakes overtighten?

Ken71Twister said
Update... With adjusters backed off and self-adjusters still intact.. I went out and went thru the ritual of backing up and applying brakes ...over 50 cycles. This started with a very spongy brake pedal and ended with a nice solid brake pedal. I then jacked the car - one side at a time - and the rear wheels are too tight. I can turn them but way too much drag on both sides. I must also amend my previous statement that the E-brake doesn’t need adjustment. With the brakes so tight the E-brake is still relatively ineffective and I can pull the handle to the stop. When this is over with the brake adjusters - I’ll adjust the E-brake handle to tighten things up. If I don’t get any great solutions - I’ll go back to plan A and manually adjust the brakes and disable the automatic adjuster. I’d rather find a rationale and correctable solution to the automatic adjusters that have worked fine for 48 years.

obviously, there is something wrong with the e-brake. Just because you're hitting the stop doesn't mean that you necessarily have to keep tightening it, nor does it mean that it isn't still isn't applying undue force on the shoes. Like I said before, back off, or better yet, disconnect the front cable from the axle cables entirely. Then pull the cables forward and backwards in the sheaths to make sure you have unrestricted travel of the cable. They can get rust and dirt in those cables which can bind them up. Then pull the axle cable anchors rearward so there is absolute slack in the cable and no pressure on the shoe lever.
Somebody mentioned earlier about the flex line, but it didn't seem relevant then because the hose feeds both sides, and you said only one drum was getting hot. Now you say both are too tight which raises the possibility that the hose may be breaking down inside where it will allow fluid to flow to the w/c's, but not backwards. If that is the case the w/c's will "pump up" even when your foot is no longer pressing on pedal.