Really nice work!
1969 Barracuda Fastback
- Thread starter Machmeter1
- Start date
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Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Thanks Jim, I do have that small clearance, but will follow your advice and do a visual check too.
Nice work Wolfgang. The wiper motors from what I'm reading appear to be a pain in the arse when mixed and matched. Everything I've read on fabo indicates everything has to "match", motor, switch, and the crank that attaches directly to the motor. Crank # is 2822272.
Beautiful work and thanks for documentation/visuals!
Beautiful work and thanks for documentation/visuals!
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Thanks Steve, one of the 2 motors I have should work, but I am not there yet. The motor with #3431905 has a smaller output shaft and is already for sale. The motor with #3799142 was installed on the car and would have the right size output shaft for the crank you mentioned. However, the hunt for the right motor is on.
Thanks Wolfgang
Thanks Wolfgang
I'm sure you know Wolfgang but #2983116 is the correct wiper motor(I believe). That # was also used on ebodies and possibly more.
That is the one.
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
FirmFeel Stage II:
Thanks to a FABO member I got a power steering box in decent condition. After talking to an experienced Mopar enthusiast and doing some research, I decided to get it upgraded and professionally rebuild by Firm Feel Inc. Steering and Suspension for Chrysler Plymouth & Dodge.
They did a very nice job and the communication with the technician was excellent. For my car and the intended usage, they recommended Stage II - and that is what I got. After cleaning the bolts and holes, I applied Loctite - done.
Here are some pictures, before and after:
Thanks to a FABO member I got a power steering box in decent condition. After talking to an experienced Mopar enthusiast and doing some research, I decided to get it upgraded and professionally rebuild by Firm Feel Inc. Steering and Suspension for Chrysler Plymouth & Dodge.
They did a very nice job and the communication with the technician was excellent. For my car and the intended usage, they recommended Stage II - and that is what I got. After cleaning the bolts and holes, I applied Loctite - done.
Here are some pictures, before and after:
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Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Update on the engine rebuild...:
Today, I visited Kammer & Kammer in Dayton. My engine is about to getting reassembled. Don't have any problems to find my engine,...it's probably the smallest and weakest in the whole shop
Today, I visited Kammer & Kammer in Dayton. My engine is about to getting reassembled. Don't have any problems to find my engine,...it's probably the smallest and weakest in the whole shop
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Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Update on the engine rebuild...:
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Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
The disc brake conversion:
I read quite a few articles here on FABO and considered my options for a disc brake conversion, which fits the 14x5.5 Kelsey - Hayes rims. One option would have been the DISC-O-TECH conversion, with mostly original parts. To me, it didn't seem worth the time and money you have to invest in the part search, sandblasting, powder coating and rebuild of all the components.
But I wanted to keep the classic style and a proven system that fits the 10" rear drum brakes, and therefore decided to go with the disc brake conversion kit (Stage I) from DoctorDiff Drivetrain Components. The company enjoys quite good feedback from the Mopar community and the price seems to be fair, plus customer service and correspondence (fast) were excellent.
Since the front suspension on my Barracuda got just recently rebuilt, I wanted to keep the original upper control arms and ordered the kit with just the upper ball joint sleeve - my mistake. Well, I am a very picky person, especially when it comes to safety - like brakes, steering, and suspension. The ball joint sleeve option may work and serve its purpose up to a certain point, but considering my intentions to do highway driving and touring, I decided to go the right way and ordered new upper control arms.
The kit (master cylinder, proportioning valve, hoses, caliber, brake shoes, discs, bearings, and hardware), and all the brake lines I ordered with it seem to be of good quality, the new upper controls arms had the same metal thickness as the original ones and fit perfectly on the car. Unfortunately, the rotors were a disappointment, but I can not blame Dr. Diff for that since they came directly from the manufacturer and were wrongly packed (two different rotors - one looked like casted by the local blacksmith). Getting a replacement was not a problem - Dr. Diff ordered new rotors, did the requested quality control and sent them to me.
What I did during installation:
-Loosened tension from the torsion bars
-Used some thread locker on the 3 brake dust shield bolts
-Tightened all bolts to specs provided in the instruction for the kit
-Cleaned the rotors thoroughly before installation and checked all machined surfaces
-Used silicone grease on slider surfaces
-Secured the unused bleeder screw with thread locker
Since on FABO there are different opinions on the brake hose routing, I sent a picture to Dr. Diff to confirm the correct installation.
Some guys may have another solution for it, I preferred to follow the instruction from the seller.
Here some pictures:
View attachment 1715471237
I read quite a few articles here on FABO and considered my options for a disc brake conversion, which fits the 14x5.5 Kelsey - Hayes rims. One option would have been the DISC-O-TECH conversion, with mostly original parts. To me, it didn't seem worth the time and money you have to invest in the part search, sandblasting, powder coating and rebuild of all the components.
But I wanted to keep the classic style and a proven system that fits the 10" rear drum brakes, and therefore decided to go with the disc brake conversion kit (Stage I) from DoctorDiff Drivetrain Components. The company enjoys quite good feedback from the Mopar community and the price seems to be fair, plus customer service and correspondence (fast) were excellent.
Since the front suspension on my Barracuda got just recently rebuilt, I wanted to keep the original upper control arms and ordered the kit with just the upper ball joint sleeve - my mistake. Well, I am a very picky person, especially when it comes to safety - like brakes, steering, and suspension. The ball joint sleeve option may work and serve its purpose up to a certain point, but considering my intentions to do highway driving and touring, I decided to go the right way and ordered new upper control arms.
The kit (master cylinder, proportioning valve, hoses, caliber, brake shoes, discs, bearings, and hardware), and all the brake lines I ordered with it seem to be of good quality, the new upper controls arms had the same metal thickness as the original ones and fit perfectly on the car. Unfortunately, the rotors were a disappointment, but I can not blame Dr. Diff for that since they came directly from the manufacturer and were wrongly packed (two different rotors - one looked like casted by the local blacksmith). Getting a replacement was not a problem - Dr. Diff ordered new rotors, did the requested quality control and sent them to me.
What I did during installation:
-Loosened tension from the torsion bars
-Used some thread locker on the 3 brake dust shield bolts
-Tightened all bolts to specs provided in the instruction for the kit
-Cleaned the rotors thoroughly before installation and checked all machined surfaces
-Used silicone grease on slider surfaces
-Secured the unused bleeder screw with thread locker
Since on FABO there are different opinions on the brake hose routing, I sent a picture to Dr. Diff to confirm the correct installation.
Some guys may have another solution for it, I preferred to follow the instruction from the seller.
Here some pictures:
View attachment 1715471237
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That looks like a very good kit
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Good morning, I think so too. There were absolutely no modifications necessary and the parts look quite solid. When ordering the kit, you can also upgrade to slotted rotors and steel flex hoses.
Looks good Wolf. Are the pads readily available for replacement?
Great documentation.
Great documentation.
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Hi, thanks and yes, rotors and pads. I believe they are 76 Plymouth Duster specs. But I wanted everything from one source and not starting experimenting with different vendors - that's why I went with Dr. Diff.
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Light switch restoration:
Didn't post much lately, but that doesn't mean I have been lazy. Went through the engine wire harness and replaced a few wires and connectors. I have to confess, that electric is not really one of my strong points, but I am working on it and there are very helpful forum members. Next winter I should redo the complete underdash and engine wire harness. For now, I am trying to eliminate potential hazards, like a burnt connector at the bulkhead and corrosion on electric components. The light switch is not really service able. In order to get access to the internal parts, I had to carefully dremel down the 3 rivets. The rivets got replaced with 3mm bolts. I filed down the heads of those bolts, so they don't interfere with the plug. Cleaned all contacts with a fiberglass pen, applied electric grease and reassembled the unit. Starter relay and wiper switch got the same treatment. Here, before and after:
Didn't post much lately, but that doesn't mean I have been lazy. Went through the engine wire harness and replaced a few wires and connectors. I have to confess, that electric is not really one of my strong points, but I am working on it and there are very helpful forum members. Next winter I should redo the complete underdash and engine wire harness. For now, I am trying to eliminate potential hazards, like a burnt connector at the bulkhead and corrosion on electric components. The light switch is not really service able. In order to get access to the internal parts, I had to carefully dremel down the 3 rivets. The rivets got replaced with 3mm bolts. I filed down the heads of those bolts, so they don't interfere with the plug. Cleaned all contacts with a fiberglass pen, applied electric grease and reassembled the unit. Starter relay and wiper switch got the same treatment. Here, before and after:
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Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Repairing the front grills:
The front grills on the 69 barracuda tend to brake at the area where they are bent in a shallow angle. My driver's side grill was no exemption, it was broken and badly bent. There are many ways to repair it - soldering, gluing, welding, etc.
More than 20 years ago I finished an apprenticeship and became a professional tinsmith. Later I changed my career, but since I still enjoy working with metal, I decided to give it a try and repair it.
On all 4 grills I have, I found at least one broken panel, so the worst looking became a donor. I build a simple tool that matches the angle on the grills. Then I sawed 3 deep grooves in it, to push out the broken panels. Those panels are very fragile and aluminum tends to "smear", therefore I sprayed first some cooking oil on the grills. With some patience, equal and gentle tapping, I could remove and install the panels.
Timeconsuming, but the result was quite satisfying - might bead blast them later.
The front grills on the 69 barracuda tend to brake at the area where they are bent in a shallow angle. My driver's side grill was no exemption, it was broken and badly bent. There are many ways to repair it - soldering, gluing, welding, etc.
More than 20 years ago I finished an apprenticeship and became a professional tinsmith. Later I changed my career, but since I still enjoy working with metal, I decided to give it a try and repair it.
On all 4 grills I have, I found at least one broken panel, so the worst looking became a donor. I build a simple tool that matches the angle on the grills. Then I sawed 3 deep grooves in it, to push out the broken panels. Those panels are very fragile and aluminum tends to "smear", therefore I sprayed first some cooking oil on the grills. With some patience, equal and gentle tapping, I could remove and install the panels.
Timeconsuming, but the result was quite satisfying - might bead blast them later.
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Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Update on the engine, valve train is done:
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No cracks on the inner corner of the housings. NICE
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Nope, and I have a excellent spare set, but not for sale!No cracks on the inner corner of the housings. NICE
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Overhaul A904 transmission:
Started with the rebuild of the A904 transmissions. It came with the engine from CA and is also year correct. The endplay was more to the maximum, but still within specs. In the last 50 years, it collected a lot of dirt, so after disassembling I brought all parts (besides the valve body) to Kammer Racing and had them professionally cleaned.
The valve body is done - waiting for my overhaul deluxe rebuild kit from A & Reds |
Started with the rebuild of the A904 transmissions. It came with the engine from CA and is also year correct. The endplay was more to the maximum, but still within specs. In the last 50 years, it collected a lot of dirt, so after disassembling I brought all parts (besides the valve body) to Kammer Racing and had them professionally cleaned.
The valve body is done - waiting for my overhaul deluxe rebuild kit from A & Reds |
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512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
Wolfgang I hope you have good teeth and deep pockets. You have bitten off a big chunk of american muscle, the harder you chew on it the more $expensive it gets.
I applaud your diligence and your project. Keep up the great work.
Keep posting, we are all watching
Jim K
I applaud your diligence and your project. Keep up the great work.
Keep posting, we are all watching
Jim K
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Thanks Jim, I agree, our hobby is expensive, but when I compare the prices on some Bbody models and parts, I am glad to have a ABody with small block
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
Small update on the transmission:
It's my 3rd automatic transmission overhaul, but the first Chrysler 904, therefore I take my time and check everything twice. The kit from A&Reds was quite a disappointment, most washers are from a later year transmission, one fiber ring came broken, the output shaft seal is not the boot style version, and the front clutch band is a flex band with a very thin liner. My complaints have not been answered yet, but in order to save nerves and time, I contacted W.I.T. Whatever It Takes Transmission Parts and got right washers, a boot style seal and a rigid front clutch band. Super fast shipping and excellent communication - perfect. Attached is a picture showing my old rigid band, the flex band from A&Reds and the new W.I.T band - what a difference!
Another issue I ran into, was the alignment of the oil pump. The service manual shows a special tool (two pins), of unknown diameter and a large piston ring compressor. The closest what I had, were two 9mm drill bits, but no piston ring compressor. So, I inserted the oil pump assembly without the rubber seal and all bolts loose, into the transmission housing and put the drill bits in the two designated bores. After everything lined up perfectly, I tightened the bolts and removed the pump assembly. In one literature the usage of a clamps is recommended for pump alignment. Just wanted to share the method I used, with limited tools available.
It's my 3rd automatic transmission overhaul, but the first Chrysler 904, therefore I take my time and check everything twice. The kit from A&Reds was quite a disappointment, most washers are from a later year transmission, one fiber ring came broken, the output shaft seal is not the boot style version, and the front clutch band is a flex band with a very thin liner. My complaints have not been answered yet, but in order to save nerves and time, I contacted W.I.T. Whatever It Takes Transmission Parts and got right washers, a boot style seal and a rigid front clutch band. Super fast shipping and excellent communication - perfect. Attached is a picture showing my old rigid band, the flex band from A&Reds and the new W.I.T band - what a difference!
Another issue I ran into, was the alignment of the oil pump. The service manual shows a special tool (two pins), of unknown diameter and a large piston ring compressor. The closest what I had, were two 9mm drill bits, but no piston ring compressor. So, I inserted the oil pump assembly without the rubber seal and all bolts loose, into the transmission housing and put the drill bits in the two designated bores. After everything lined up perfectly, I tightened the bolts and removed the pump assembly. In one literature the usage of a clamps is recommended for pump alignment. Just wanted to share the method I used, with limited tools available.
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Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
New tires:
Like everybody and everything at the moment, also my Barracuda project got affected by the pandemic and lost some of its former priority. My tires came with a delay of 3 1/2 months. A local tire shop mounted the tires and was able to lug-centrically balance them - the right way to balance the original K&H rims. Since I am not willing to pay a small fortune for a red stripe, the choice fell on the Vitour Galaxy R1 205/70/R14. The tire has a high-speed rating, is street legal in Europe and supposed to perform well in wet conditions. A lot of my European fellows from the Mustang community gave them good reviews. I ordered the tires through performanceplustire.com - communication was excellent and prices very fair. The white letters may not be everybody's taste, but I like them a lot.
Even though this spring feels very different, I hope that we all will be able to continue somehow our hobby and can enjoy shows and rides in the upcoming summer and fall.
Stay safe,
Wolfgang
Like everybody and everything at the moment, also my Barracuda project got affected by the pandemic and lost some of its former priority. My tires came with a delay of 3 1/2 months. A local tire shop mounted the tires and was able to lug-centrically balance them - the right way to balance the original K&H rims. Since I am not willing to pay a small fortune for a red stripe, the choice fell on the Vitour Galaxy R1 205/70/R14. The tire has a high-speed rating, is street legal in Europe and supposed to perform well in wet conditions. A lot of my European fellows from the Mustang community gave them good reviews. I ordered the tires through performanceplustire.com - communication was excellent and prices very fair. The white letters may not be everybody's taste, but I like them a lot.
Even though this spring feels very different, I hope that we all will be able to continue somehow our hobby and can enjoy shows and rides in the upcoming summer and fall.
Stay safe,
Wolfgang
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Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
New torque converter:
Since my engine is close to stock and torque converter calculation to me is "a science in itself", I choose the easy way and sent the original torque converter for a rebuild to Precision of New Hampton | Torque Converters, Transmission - excellent customer service, fair prices, and really fast work - got the converter back within 3 days.
Curious how it will work:
Since my engine is close to stock and torque converter calculation to me is "a science in itself", I choose the easy way and sent the original torque converter for a rebuild to Precision of New Hampton | Torque Converters, Transmission - excellent customer service, fair prices, and really fast work - got the converter back within 3 days.
Curious how it will work:
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