Anyone run this Voodoo cam ?

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mbaird

mbaird
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Lunati 20200711 Voodoo 219/227 Hydraulic Roller Cam

I am not happy with my current cam.
I want one that idles nice and makes great mid range power.

5.9 with IMM EQ heads , 9.8:1 ,RPM intake and Dougs headers. ....


Any feedback ?
 
Current cam is an Oregon grind.
I cant seem to get rid of the reversion under 2100 rpm. Power is mediocre and it sucks fuel like a shopvac !
Recurved the timing 100 ways . Tried 3 carbs and jetted till I am blue in the face.
93875AEB-ABDE-42F4-A1DF-468BF0ABBED8.png
 
What trans and/or converter do you have?
What is your rear gear and tire size?
What do you get for Hwy. mileage?
 
Looks like a 300° duration cam. That one won't idle well and get good mileage.
 
.002 tappet rise is 292/301 - not worth much
.006 tappet rise is 255/262 - most commonly listed
.050 tappet rise is 222/229 - industry standard
 
222/229 @ .050. AND 301 advertised ?

2700 tq convertor
Gear dont seem to make a difference. Its the low rpm where its dirty.
 
.002 tappet rise is 292/301 - not worth much
.006 tappet rise is 255/262 - most commonly listed
.050 tappet rise is 222/229 - industry standard
There should be a ISO 9001 standard for cam measurement. LOL
 
222/229 @ .050. AND 301 advertised ?
No, most cam company advertising is at .006, the underlined number on the far left. .002 is a super small amount of movement.

2700 tq convertor
Gear dont seem to make a difference. Its the low rpm where its dirty.
Then, this is my guess, your gear ratio and tire size are off. Gear to low, tire to tall.

That’s why I asked about your gear ratio and tire size. I should also ask about the vehicles weight. A body cars can have a huge weight swing.
 
I have run 3.55s and 2.76s for a road trip.
25” tires and 27.5 tires.
It also is no monster in upper rpms...
Nothing about the power band on this motor is overly impressive.
 
Stock heads? Valve sizes?

Mike, I’m personally not crazy about the 112 C- line. Normally these like a lot of compression.

This may not be a great idea, but did you consider Rhoades lifters. They will shorten up the duration and trap more air and fuel. This should boost lower end torque and improve mileage. I know there not the most favorite way to go for most people and they do not exactly help cam timing the way it should be.
Shy of a new cam, I’m not sure where to go since I know you know your way around an engine and can tune one.
 
I am hoping a grind closer to this will clean things up.

I will reach out to Brian to do a custom grind as well.
7DA821B8-88DE-409A-BD3A-3195C38A222D.png
 
Yes! They do and man was I surprised by that!

OH! P.S. I’d rather the correct cam, but I’m not sure how you wanted to go about it.
 
This car is aimed more at road than track.
I would sacrifice some top end hp to get clean performance in the middle.
I have the W2 408 Swinger for the track.
 
I see 274/282@.006.

Nothing stands out to me as a problem with the numbers on the card for that application.
The pic isn’t all that clear, but it looks like there’s a spec for duration @.016, which looks like its hand written in...... so I’m wondering what the significance of that lift point is with that cam?

Have you done a cranking compression test?

What carb are you running?

Headers or manifolds?

Unless the current cam has some odd issue, the Lunati 711 doesn’t look different enough to affect the change you’re after.

Keep in mind the lift specs for the 711 cam are assuming 1.5RR.

Another option is to look into having the current cam reground with about 6-10* less duration.

If it’s a magnum based short block, something like a Comp 20-604-9
 
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Its cranking around 170
I have used a 750 VS , 850 DP and now AVS-2 650 Eddie
 
I see 274/282@.006.

Nothing stands out to me as a problem with the numbers on the card for that application.

Keep in mind the lift specs for that cam are assuming 1.5RR.
Oh crap! Thanks PRH, my bad and good mention for the rocker ratio and lift stuff.
 
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