Not best, but optimum Transmission?

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I know what you mean, and I agree. I've tried to explain it. Just ain't sinking in. Let's try this another way. It was 80% of the acceptable range ABOVE the ADD 1 PINT indicator line. That's further away from the ADD 1 PINT line that it is from the FULL line.

Considering the total capacity (that means how much a define shaped will hold) of the 727 transmission and torque converter, which is rated to hold 12 quarts, (which would be extremely close to the same amount as 24 pints), my transmission was down ~20% of 1 pint. Let me work out the differential equation on that … that comes out to a factor of ~0.008333, or 0.8333% lower than the suggested 12 quart capacity. 0.8333% is less than 1, because it starts with 0. That means my transmission when checked, was LESS THAN 1% below the suggested full capacity.

In most people's book, that doesn't equate to: OH GOD YOU'RE AN IDIOT! YOU JUST BURNED UP YOUR TRANSMISSION! TEAR DOWN TRANSMISSIONS FOR A LIVING OR NEVER DRIVE AGAIN!

I'm going to guess that it's quite possible there's an alternative explanation than "you burned up your transmission because a) you didn't overfill it like I do, b) you're not a fluid expert, and c) you've never rebuilt a transmission.

That said, I shall respectfully only listen and respond to other's more tactful and very likely more accurate feedback.


7milesout
 
69_340_GTS said:
You should be at 2800 rpm @ 60mph with the 24" tires. Why not slap on some 26" tires and slow her down to 2600 rpm? Also, FYI, at these RPMs you are not "abusing" anything.
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GTS - I've done various calculations, and they align with yours. I'm thinking my tachometer may be off. I have procured a new tach, but haven't installed it as yet due to time constraints and I've not found a means and location to mount it that I like.

As to why I don't slap bigger tires on there. I really like the look of the 14" Rallye wheels and tires, and the car sits somewhat low to the ground. The stance looks good, I do drag the TTi headers sometimes, even as gentle as I go over speedbumps trying not to.

I'm sure you're right, that 3,000 rpm is not abusing it … it just sounds that way. I have a Lexus LS 460L with an 8 speed. And at 60 mph, it's turning probably about 1,400 rpm. Apples and oranges I know. But, I sure love this MOPAR, so when it's spinning that fast for that long, it just sort of feels wrong.

But thanks for the input.
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Playing around with numbers and insulting me doesn't change the facts. You don't understand how a trans uses fluid or why your trans is slipping. Running slightly low on fluid is horrible advice. A pint DOES matter.
 
I don't usually check the dipstick until the 2-3shift flares. Been doing that for 50 years. I build all my own transmissions, and I've never burned one up yet.
On occassion, I have overfilled them too. They just blow it out the vent. After a while it stops so I guess it found it's own level.
Kindof like my rad; it finds it's own level too.
And the P/S reservoir. She's nasty, about it tho.
Kindof like the oceans, the water always finds it's own flatness.
 
Well, without getting into ocean levels and how they relate to automatic transmissions, I would be more concerned with finding a leak if I'm losing trans fluid. Understandably, transmissions and oceaneanic levels are affected by temperature which affect currents; which affect levels...oceans are a little more complicated than a 727, but you understand that your 2-3 flare means the pump is sucking air; not that your trans needs rebuilt. I think the op wouldn't understand that connection. And therein lies the rub. Debating fluid levels on a trans that doesn't even have a stop on the tube is like rearranging deck chairs on the Titanic. Full might be full but it isn't always full. Sometimes full is full and sometimes full is overfilled. I think Donald Rumsfeld would consider a "full" mark to be a "known unknown".
 
Not wanting to re-read an increasingly kooky thread, but how are you checking levels.... running in park, running in neutral, cold/parked/off, hot/running/3rd gear at speed, TJ Hooker style?? (I threw that last one in to lighten it up in here).
 
Lefty. Sorry about the kookiness.

I check it after I've been out driving it. I come back to my driveway, coast to the bottom in Neutral, stop on the flat part of my driveway, then I let off the service brakes just to make sure it's in the flattest possible spot, when it doesn't roll even an inch I pull the park brake, leave it idling in Neutral and get out and pull the dipstick. Wipe it, put it back in, and pull it again and read it.

I drove it over the weekend. It was awesome. The slight knocking sound is only happening in park. And as of late, it seems like when I put it in park, sometimes it doesn't fully engage the parking pawl (and subsequently the starter won't turn, how I first started figuring that out). In those cases, I just shift to Neutral, and it fires right up.

Now I am more diligent to push the lever completely up in park and notice if I feel the weight of the vehicle gently rest on the pawl. If I'm on any slope, I pull the park brake before I let the weight rest on the parking pawl.

When I first had the headers installed it wouldn't go into L1. They guy who did the work is TOP NOTCH. I figured he had to jimmy the shift linkage to fit the headers and he said yes. I took it back and he adjusted again, and it shifted to L1 just fine. But I wonder if that last adjustment has made it not want to fully move into Park … but that was some time ago (more than a year).
 
AJ/FormS said:
FWIW; I got it when you first said it. And I have used the same terminology so, IMO, yur in good company.
It's the same way I mix 2-cycle gas; as 4% instead of 25:1.. If the tank only holds say 700 ml; I put 600 gas and 4% oil =28mls of oil. It cannot be any simpler.
Yet customers get so caught up in the method, I have to explain it almost every time.
It's like the
1260 days/ 42 months/ 3.5 years end-times tribulation period. Last week I heard a pastor say the tribulation started in 1975.... well waitaminute, that's 45 years ago,lol. I'm outtahere.
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You put too much oil in that tank for 25:1...600ml of gas needs 24ml of oil not 28ml...now your poor weed eater is running lean...it cannot be any simpler
 
If you decide a rebuild is needed. Do it yourself.
I just rebuilt my 904 and was surprised how easy it was. I have a tiny garage with no lift and was successful. I bought a cheap trans jack from Harbor Freight with the 20% off coupon, and used no special tools. I lugged the trans into my basement for the rebuild. The only problem I really had was the pump. I didn't have the pump "puller" and wasn't able to source one, so I took some 2 ft long threaded rod and put a 10lb bench press wt on it, with some washers and nuts of course to hold everything in place, and the pump came right out. There are a lot of great videos online that walk you through every step.
Good luck!
 
There are plenty of people in here to assist with anything you might run into with the build...just don't take it to that "top notch" butcher again!
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
...just don't take it to that "top notch" butcher again!
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I am swatting at you like the pesky fly that you are. Shew fly! Go away!

The only other person who has touched the Scamp except me IS top notch. He's never touched the transmission except the shift linkages related to installing headers and full exhaust ... which he did an outstanding job on. Based on your lack of understanding of how to read a dipstick, insistent need to overfill a transmission when directed not to by Chrysler, continuous need to try to make yourself feel superior by trying to make me look inferior to you, and what's in your username, I wouldn't take your advice or let you touch a single thing on my car. You sir are the hack.

Shew fly, go away!
 
66 Valiant wagon said:
If you decide a rebuild is needed. Do it yourself.
I just rebuilt my 904 and was surprised how easy it was. I have a tiny garage with no lift and was successful. I bought a cheap trans jack from Harbor Freight with the 20% off coupon, and used no special tools. I lugged the trans into my basement for the rebuild. The only problem I really had was the pump. I didn't have the pump "puller" and wasn't able to source one, so I took some 2 ft long threaded rod and put a 10lb bench press wt on it, with some washers and nuts of course to hold everything in place, and the pump came right out. There are a lot of great videos online that walk you through every step.
Good luck!
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That is good to read. I will seriously consider doing that. Much appreciated.


7milesout
 
My Barracuda was built April 14, 1964. It is a factory four speed car. When Plymouth decided to offer a four speed, there was no viable platform available. They had three to choose from; push button automatic, which had the wrong dash, column shift three speed manual, which had the wrong column, floor shift automatic, which was good everywhere except it didn't have a large enough hump to clear the shifter. So, the side of the transmission tunnel was torched out as it went down the assembly line and a humped panel was pop riveted in place. They are referred to as, "factory hack jobs". It worked; unlike some "top notch" dude who "jimmies" up linkage to clear headers to a point that the car is dangerous to drive.
 
Hello guys - Since the beginning of this thread, the car has not been driven. Until Saturday. I took it to the mechanic I like, and he and I installed a small ~5 psi electric pump near the tank. Because the car vapor locks at the dragstrip. Never happens anywhere else.

While up in the air, we took a peek at the flex plate. And sure enough, the flex plate is cracked. That would be the source of the noise this thread is all about. So, I'm going to have to replace it. The car drives fine. I made a couple dash cam videos of it driving to and from his shop and it can be seen how nice it drives, sounds and shifts real nice. I'll try to get something up on youtube then link it here.

But I'm wondering, while the transmission is pulled back or removed, what else should I consider doing? And is there a flex plate that is better than others? I want something robust, that will not crack again anytime soon. Thanks.


7milesout
 
Whenever I remove the trans from a small block I always make sure to because if they're bad, you have to r&r the trans all over again.
 
7milesout said:
Hello guys - Since the beginning of this thread, the car has not been driven. Until Saturday. I took it to the mechanic I like, and he and I installed a small ~5 psi electric pump near the tank. Because the car vapor locks at the dragstrip. Never happens anywhere else.

While up in the air, we took a peek at the flex plate. And sure enough, the flex plate is cracked. That would be the source of the noise this thread is all about. So, I'm going to have to replace it. The car drives fine. I made a couple dash cam videos of it driving to and from his shop and it can be seen how nice it drives, sounds and shifts real nice. I'll try to get something up on youtube then link it here.

But I'm wondering, while the transmission is pulled back or removed, what else should I consider doing? And is there a flex plate that is better than others? I want something robust, that will not crack again anytime soon. Thanks.


7milesout
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The original flexplates will last 40 or 50 years of abuse. You could put a performance one in but it probably isn't necessary.
 
Also something to do while it's on the lift, service the transmission. (Fluid, filter, and gasket)
 
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