Anyone run this Voodoo cam ?

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Well I see 274-282 @.004 which is the Way Crane measures cams
comp/ lunati/ howard at.006 would be under 270 for the intake
no way to know symetrical or asymetrical or whose style lobes they are.
The lunati may not be a big difference and lots of $$$ for a new core
what I'd do is fill out Jones cam request card and pray he'd regrind t for you
or try Bullet
mechanically/ mathamatcaly speaking Jones IR profiles can't be beat
and he can go shorter and get same performance
have you tried the advance / retard drill to see what your motor likes?
 
The cam card pic isn’t all that clear for me.
I thought the 274/282 was @.006....... but maybe it’s a “4”.
Maybe the OP can verify it for us.

Also, the hand written duration number under that...... looks like .016....... but again, I can’t really make it out.
 
PRH said:
The cam card pic isn’t all that clear for me.
I thought the 274/282 was @.006....... but maybe it’s a “4”.
Maybe the OP can verify it for us.

Also, the hand written duration number under that...... looks like .016....... but again, I can’t really make it out.
Click to expand...

Sorry ... I was out doing bodywork on the Dart.
Yes that is a .06. Then .16.
 
I've seen oregon cam cards
never seen an 006, seen .004
he does give 100, 200 which is nice to help eliminate the classic grinds
slantsix64 what does yours say?

Thanks M
if .006 that's a big cam
 
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comp is similar to the Lunati
before spending 300+dollars I'd try advancing the unknown regrind 4 degrees and see if the engine likes the effectively shorter cam
also if the Oregon is a regrind how long pushrods did you end up with
I'd like to compare with Slantsix64 pushrods in his Oregon regrind
I'll have to look at his thread and see what his duration is
his A body runs good
 
Blew it up a bit . Still hard to read the increments... .002, .004, .016?, .020, .026, .050...

93875AEB-ABDE-42F4-A1DF-468BF0ABBED8.png
 
thanks stixx
.004 to .006 makes a big difference
Oregon does give more info than most except those that give cam doc print out
Slantsix64 HR regrind by Oregon cams
Camshaft specs are 260/264 .437/.453 110LSA Oregon Cams grind 1006. Also adding a melling double roller timing chain.

nm wrote OK, just looked it up: ICL is 108 so only 2 degrees of ground-in advance.
Pretty slow ramp cam for a roller... 57 degrees of difference between the advertised and .050" lift duration numbers (203 vs 260). Does not take advantage of the roller.. but it will last forever! The regrind cams profiles there are slow ramps...that may just be the nature of the re-grinds.
Hydraulic Roller Camshaft Specifications (Oregon Cams) roller camshaft grind 1006
.437/.453 lift duration @.050 203/208 lobe center 108/112
dartfever posted
That grind is very close to the original r/t cam mopar sold for the magnum engines. .050" 204/208, advertised 260/264 LSA 114 ICL 109. .458" in .467" ex. Have this cam in my 5.2L dakota with 1.7 rr's. Ported heads, shorties, M1 EFI intake. 247rwhp and consistent 17 city 21 hwy US MPG

slant's cam card is here post 48
318 budget build
and that card says .006
 
Yes. Very lazy ramps.
I just can't figure out why it is so sloppy at low rpms. I have run more aggressive cams the are cleaner down low.

Wyrmrider ,. Are you thinking my preload is incorrect ? I would think that would effect higher rpms more than low.
 
I spoke to Ken at Oregon Camshafts and described my dilemma... He says this cam should be fairly smooth at lower rpms.
I went over the engine details , degree info , carbs , timing , preload ,cyl pressure etc.... He doesn't know why I am having this issue. Says he uses that grind often with great results.

Hmmm
 
I don't think preload makes much difference as long as you have some and not top out and not so much as to bottom out
One thing I would ask Oregon is how he wants his cams timed
down from the lobe tip
or from the .05 timing numbers- which is what I prefer
asymmetrical cams can be way off if you set by the center of the lobe tip and then check the .050 timing
I saw a lot of my customers complain of being retarded and I had to agree with them
read post 9 by UD Harold about the differences in intensity of his opening and closing sides and let me know what your think (posted today in FBBO, I had never seen this one)
Aggressive/Extreme cams?
 
With lifter preload, less is less duration and later activation. I do this on small-ish street cams. I have run as little as .010 preload. It inches out spreading the power band ever so slightly & increases torque.
 
ok but which method did you use so we can share
all I can see is your cam is quite a big bigger than slantsix64's
both magnums and stock compression, carbs
timing? timing curve?
if you have a 4 way timing set I'd try the 4 degree advance and see what happens
here's some cheers
cheer, cheer, cheer
 
Didn’t Harold himself say his cams like 4*’s advanced? Even the older UD grinds?
Wyrmrider said:
ok but which method did you use so we can share
all I can see is your cam is quite a big bigger than slantsix64's
both magnums and stock compression, carbs
timing? timing curve?
if you have a 4 way timing set I'd try the 4 degree advance and see what happens
here's some cheers
cheer, cheer, cheer
Click to expand...
 
Actually UDHarold said one time that all his Ultradyne cams were designed to run 6 degrees advanced
IDK about his GK, Comp Lunati Custom Cams
 
Ken said advancing it would make things worse if it is scam issue.

This motor is a typical 5.9 with Airgap and Doug's headers.
I have tried multiple timing curves .
But the under 2k remains dirty. Certain combos of carb tuning and timing are better than others but it's still not clean down low.

It's almost as if 1 cylinder is misfiring... But it idles nicely around 750 RPM ... Bizarre
 
Wyrmrider said:
ok but which method did you use so we can share
all I can see is your cam is quite a big bigger than slantsix64's
both magnums and stock compression, carbs
timing? timing curve?
if you have a 4 way timing set I'd try the 4 degree advance and see what happens
here's some cheers
cheer, cheer, cheer
Click to expand...

Cam was degreed and all Timing events checked. You can see my notes on cam sheet.

TDC. Degrees before....degrees after ... Split the difference...
 
Looks like very long lash ramps. Kinda what I would expect from Oregon. Not what you could do with a HR.

I also wonder if the 106.5 installed ICL is effecting the overlap... Intake is opening pretty early. Edit to add: I just read the OP's recent post which seems to agree.

Also, the rich idle makes me guess the carb is not quite yet right. What idle vacuum level do you have?

Edit to add more: This seems like an HFT profile... Like has been hinted at by wyrm.
 
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scam issue...
not funny- I share your pain
I did take a look at your notes after blowing the cam info up
looks like the intake open is spot on and you did check the timing at .050
many do not and get funny results checking ICL from the nose down
did you find any difference between icl calculated from the timing (middle between open and closed) and a top down measurement- that would tell how asymmetrical lobes are (we do not know what the .004 or .006 seat timing is just the duration)

off the wall thought- pcv valve (vacuum leak)
Do you have a wide band 02 sensor
what do the plugs look like or has that been covered
accelerator pump curve-(or lack thereof) something simple
was that a new billet or a regrind
Ken may like it but your motor may have a mind of it's own
I'd sure jack the timing around before springing for a new cam
it might not be the cam
 
Checked timing at .050 after degreeing
Idle vacuum 11.5
17" at cruise
Wide band gauge
After 3 carbs with similar results I tend to think it's not carbs tuning issue.
 
I understand the logic, but IMHO this cam should tune up with no big issues with a decent mixture at idle.

Now here is something else worth considering: With the O2 sensor, if things are rich, the sensor IS going to give you wrong readings at cold and warmup idle. The reason is that the O2 sensor sees ONLY free oxygen. It never 'sees' the raw fuel in the exhaust.

So, at cold and warmup idle, when some of the fuel is not getting burned, then the input mixture can be perfect, but not all fuel is being burned and some of the oxygen is also not being used up. So there is excessive free oxygen in the exhaust, and the wideband interprets this as lean.
Guys then richen things up to try to make the wideband read right and go way too rich.

The only time the wideband will give you accurate readings is when everything is good and hot.

So that could be an issue here....
 
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