Nitrous plumbing A1A...??..

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Here's one of the hand drawn schematics I keep on my phone of my nitrous system's current configuration.
MSD 8969 digital window switch
MSD 8982 start/retard control

View attachment 1715472521

The retard box takes pills, I prefer that to the dial type adjustment that might accidentally get "adjusted".
The system automatically retards whenever the nitrous solenoids actually get energized.

On the left side is the 3 position switch that arms the nitrous...
...bottom position- full advance / nitrous off
...middle position- retard on / nitrous off
...top position- retard automatic / nitrous armed
Advance in the distributor is locked, I use the middle position to pull some timing manually if the engine needs to be calmed down a bit for low speed driving.

The little box marker "timer delay" is for the nitrous hit delay. This pic only shows the switched contact part of the relay, I have another pic that shows the actual wiring of that box.

Grant
Hopefully when I get back from snowmobiling today I'm going to finally make my order. Should be two nitrous plates and two longer 14 inch hoses as I'm not going to do the one short one and one small one on each solenoid. I'm going to try and do it right and Deuce two smaller ones on the fuel into longer ones on the nitrous oxide. Also since I sent that Speedmaster junk back I'm buying a couple small solenoid brackets.. I'm going to first get all the hard parts for around the carburetors. I already have my nitrous feed line. The next I want to build the fuel system. Then the next plan is to wire everything all into switches. At that point if I have a retard I will use it. The very last thing I'm going to do is buy a nitrous bottle and have it filled. And mount it... LOL.. but the big swap meet is here in about six weeks so I may try and look for a bottle there or some other accommodating parts. After the Speedmaster junk part syndrome my wife is on board with me getting good new parts for such an elaborate operation with its potential to make the motor go KAPLOOEE...
 
Simply put I have a very addictive personality... That's why I don't do drugs or drink alcohol... "I used to do a little but a little wouldn't do it and a little got more and more" guns n roses....lol...
I'm going to order the 70011 Edelbrock cheater plates and I believe they come with 50 75 and 100 Jets. If I'm not mistaken they are square.. when I talked to Mike thermos she talked about the nitrous Jets being about .004 or so bigger...
My concern is being 2 or 4° retarded for 3/4 of my run and only 1/4 of my run using the nitrous. it would seem to me that I would lose power for three-quarters of the time and barely make it up on the 1/4 time I'm using it?..

2 deg retard NA from your best setting won't make much difference in power, (5>8hp?), have you tried it to see the difference, unless of course your already around 30 total deg because of your combo/fuel etc, which I doubt. On my iron headed 10:1 340 motor being back 2 deg (34deg) which was the most I came back made no difference for NA runs which was 90% of the time, ET/mph was the same, but that was my set up not yours.
 
2 deg retard NA from your best setting won't make much difference in power, (5>8hp?), have you tried it to see the difference, unless of course your already around 30 total deg because of your combo/fuel etc, which I doubt. On my iron headed 10:1 340 motor being back 2 deg (34deg) which was the most I came back made no difference for NA runs which was 90% of the time, ET/mph was the same, but that was my set up not yours.
My combo is a 410 Stroker with about 11.3 to 1 iron heads.. when I first got this combo together I was using 100ll avgas pretty much exclusively and was running around 36 on my timing. Since then I've changed the cam and now I used 92 non ethanol. About 3 gallons of 92 and about one gallon of 110 Sunoco so the motor will shut off and not run on... I did back the timing down to about 34 when I went this route... So you know where I'm at...
 
Ok so you have an efficient motor, I personally think iron heads make more power myself but thats another thread. You say your Eddy kit is now a max of 100hp?....thats hardly worth all this effort/$$$ to me but I guess you gotta start somewhere. Perhaps going to the retard boxes is the best way for you and if you do that I would do a 150 shot min to get any real "beat your buddy" results, 100 shot run real lean on the fuel jet could work ok as well.
 
Jpar I sent you a message but you must not be taking them from me. If you need a 10% off coupon for a nice summit order let me know.
 
Ok so you have an efficient motor, I personally think iron heads make more power myself but thats another thread. You say your Eddy kit is now a max of 100hp?....thats hardly worth all this effort/$$$ to me but I guess you gotta start somewhere. Perhaps going to the retard boxes is the best way for you and if you do that I would do a 150 shot min to get any real "beat your buddy" results, 100 shot run real lean on the fuel jet could work ok as well.
Remember I have to carburetors with two of those sets of jets, that means a 100 150 and 200?.. the Zex solenoid said they are rated for 250..
 
A picture is worth a thousand words..
IMG_20200213_141204.jpg
 
I've seen some of those smaller fuel cells and I'm not really liking the way they will mount in some cases. And even a 1-gallon seems almost like it's going to be too bulky.... I know I can't use this in particular, but I was thinking something like this that I could seal and hook a n fittings to... My idea was something like this kind of sitting on the fenderwell that I could not only have a pressure gauge on(before the regulator) but also a recirculation from the regulator. Also some kind of quick disconnect so I can disconnect from the tank and pump it back into a little 1 gallon tank that I didn't use.... kind of leaving it empty most of the time but when I'm ready to use nitrous I can just take a little 1 gallon can and fill it halfway up... And when I'm done just pump back what I don't use...
Screenshot_20200218-075853.png
 
2 deg retard NA from your best setting won't make much difference in power, (5>8hp?), have you tried it to see the difference, unless of course your already around 30 total deg because of your combo/fuel etc, which I doubt. On my iron headed 10:1 340 motor being back 2 deg (34deg) which was the most I came back made no difference for NA runs which was 90% of the time, ET/mph was the same, but that was my set up not yours.

Having an automatic retard box allows a street/strip car to be much more spontaneous. Allows you to pull more timing than required for added safety margin while spraying on pump gas, without giving up any NA power or mileage. When I pull up to a spot I don't have to get out of the car to adjust timing or air pressure, just flip the switch and reach behind the pass seat and turn on the bottle. Retard box then takes care of the timing, 'tamer takes care of the traction, nitrous delay sneaks the nitrous hit in right around clutch lockup where it least upsets the chassis/traction.

Grant
 
BRING IT...
How does it work? What kind is it? Is it going to be compatible with my six Al? I have the one with the built-in adjustable rev limiter...


Depends on what you want to try. I have analog, digital, boxes with three retards built in, a really cool box that you tune with a hand held...that thing is bad ***...I've got an analog box with three seperate retards hooked to it....

Just need to know what you want to try.
 
Remember I have to carburetors with two of those sets of jets, that means a 100 150 and 200?.. the Zex solenoid said they are rated for 250..

The solenoid may be rated@250 because they have the .110 orifice, larger than the old cheater noid, but your splitting the jets which we've discussed before, we know that a 33n jet in each plate = 100 shot if I remember correct, if you wanna go bigger you can and thats where the retard boxes come into play more so if your going to run it with a 5>6+ smaller F jet for more power, then more retard is more important.
 
The solenoid may be rated@250 because they have the .110 orifice, larger than the old cheater noid, but your splitting the jets which we've discussed before, we know that a 33n jet in each plate = 100 shot if I remember correct, if you wanna go bigger you can and thats where the retard boxes come into play more so if your going to run it with a 5>6+ smaller F jet for more power, then more retard is more important.
I'll have to order the kits and see the exact size of the Jets if they're listed when I get them. It just says 50, 75 and 100 for each one. I'm not sure what the actual jet sizes but Edelbrock Generally when I looked up there specs are Square..
 
Having an automatic retard box allows a street/strip car to be much more spontaneous. Allows you to pull more timing than required for added safety margin while spraying on pump gas, without giving up any NA power or mileage. When I pull up to a spot I don't have to get out of the car to adjust timing or air pressure, just flip the switch and reach behind the pass seat and turn on the bottle. Retard box then takes care of the timing, 'tamer takes care of the traction, nitrous delay sneaks the nitrous hit in right around clutch lockup where it least upsets the chassis/traction.

Grant
That's basically the setup that I want..
 
Depends on what you want to try. I have analog, digital, boxes with three retards built in, a really cool box that you tune with a hand held...that thing is bad ***...I've got an analog box with three seperate retards hooked to it....

Just need to know what you want to try.
Give me a good time to call.. I'll probably have to have a quick phone conversation on the subject...
 
Give me a good time to call.. I'll probably have to have a quick phone conversation on the subject...


Call me tomorrow any time after 9 in the morning. I at war with an insurance adjuster.

BTW...I hate to ask...but how was the sledding???


Now the this thread is officially off the rails.
 
Call me tomorrow any time after 9 in the morning. I at war with an insurance adjuster.

BTW...I hate to ask...but how was the sledding???


Now the this thread is officially off the rails.
It will likely be more towards 11 to 12 I have a doctor's appointment tomorrow a little bit after 9..
Snowmobiling weather was beautiful but the trails were bumpy and rough so we didn't get very far. We had to fall back on the old saying that the worst day of snowmobiling is better than the best day of work!..
IMG_20200218_111725.jpg
 
big order tonight for the rest of the parts to put the nitrous hard Parts together...
 
It will likely be more towards 11 to 12 I have a doctor's appointment tomorrow a little bit after 9..
Snowmobiling weather was beautiful but the trails were bumpy and rough so we didn't get very far. We had to fall back on the old saying that the worst day of snowmobiling is better than the best day of work!..
View attachment 1715472912

That works for me. Whenever you can tomorrow.
 
Order the rest of everything and burnt the card down LOL.. course all the little parts will be here in just a day or two from Sparks Nevada, but the actual nitrous plates are coming from Ohio and probably won't be here till early next week...
 
Grrrrr!

I hate when stuff ships out of Ohio or texas, those locations seem to drag their feet..

Cant wait to see it all bolted on!

Im finally back in the shop tomorrow, i will look for those AN hard line fittings and let you know what i got.
 
Grrrrr!

I hate when stuff ships out of Ohio or texas, those locations seem to drag their feet..

Cant wait to see it all bolted on!

Im finally back in the shop tomorrow, i will look for those AN hard line fittings and let you know what i got.
yeah this will go on hold for a few days right now I'm on that other thread massive reconstruction or whatever the heck it it's called trying to figure out these new carburetors...
 
Im not sure if this is way to 60s but have you thought about using an old Mooneyes tank for the nitrous 110 fuel?

It may be to gasser but it could also be cool?
 
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