How to fix sheet metal holes?

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halfafish

halfafish

Damn those rabbits, and their holes!
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My new (to me) Dart had trim strip down the sides, at the upper edge of the side panels. It also had a vinyl top once upon a time. Oh yeah, and a Torino hood scoop. The trim and vinyl roof was removed by the PO so I now have dozens of 1/4" holes in the sheet metal, leaking water in when it rains. One of my top priorities is to seal these up so I don't get rust going inside. So far, it looks like I have avoided a rust disaster.

Is there an effective way to seal these up on a temporary basis? The car looks like hell anyway so I'm just looking for something to tide me over till I can fix them right. I was thinking maybe cutting out little circles of duct tape? Haha, this would look like a teenager's first attempt at shaving with all the little band-aids all over... :steering:

Second question, how does one seal them up permanently? I think they can be brazed or welded then ground down? I am a horrific welder so brazing might be more my speed if it works. I think there is danger of warping the body panels if not done correctly? Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
The most effective and permanent way without welding is. Take small pieces of flat metal and after cleaning the back of the hole on the panel. glue them to the back using JB weld quick set, After they dry fill the hole from the outside with the same and cut them flush with a razor blade while still soft. Works pretty good. Once they are cured you won't hit them off. Primer and paint right over them. You just have to make sure the metal on the panel is clean where you are gluing the little pieces to. I just closed up emblem holes in a hood for a guy that way. No warpage
 
I like welding them shut. Like said if that hole is big enough, and it will be, place metal behind it or better yet weld it shut with or without using a backing of say copper, that the weld will not stick too. If welding, remember about the danger of worping from excessive heat from the weld or grinding. Any method you choose, you will need at least a skim coat of filler all the way along the line of holes I bet!
I have a 62 B body that has a lot of stainless trim. All the clips are junk, no one reck and never anyone with used. No one, repops any, no one has any old stock, or used. I have to make the clips, or use double sided tape, sometime I wish I had welded them all shut and changed the model name!! from '62 Dart330 to a Dart whatever!!
 
halfafish said:
My new (to me) Dart had trim strip down the sides, at the upper edge of the side panels. It also had a vinyl top once upon a time. Oh yeah, and a Torino hood scoop. The trim and vinyl roof was removed by the PO so I now have dozens of 1/4" holes in the sheet metal, leaking water in when it rains. One of my top priorities is to seal these up so I don't get rust going inside. So far, it looks like I have avoided a rust disaster.

Is there an effective way to seal these up on a temporary basis? The car looks like hell anyway so I'm just looking for something to tide me over till I can fix them right. I was thinking maybe cutting out little circles of duct tape? Haha, this would look like a teenager's first attempt at shaving with all the little band-aids all over... :steering:

Second question, how does one seal them up permanently? I think they can be brazed or welded then ground down? I am a horrific welder so brazing might be more my speed if it works. I think there is danger of warping the body panels if not done correctly? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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For temporary fix, get some short strand fiberglass filler. You can pick it up at any auto parts store. It is not hard to work with, it comes with a tube of hardener, just mix and spread on. That will fill the holes, then just sand the filler down flush to the metal and spray some primer to prevent rust from forming.
For permanent fix, I have always used one method for holes 1/4" or bigger. Take a screw about the same size as the hole. Screw it into the hole a bit an then tack weld the shaft of the screw to the body panel. Use a cut off wheel to cut the screw off flush. Then you can use regular body filler to smooth the area, primer, and paint it. I would not use only body filler for a hole that size, there is a chance it could crack or separate from the edges. Any body flex will cause that. By using a screw to fill the hole, there is mostly metal and very little filler.
Just my opinion, others may have different techniques.
 
You can buy those little garage sale dots for Price tags.. they come in multiple colors and I suggest you use all the colors and make it kind of a rainbow thing... And don't forget to take pictures because we will definitely want to see that...
 
j par said:
You can buy those little garage sale dots for Price tags.. they come in multiple colors and I suggest you use all the colors and make it kind of a rainbow thing... And don't forget to take pictures because we will definitely want to see that...
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^^somebody else's thread ^^

his thread ----
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j par said:
I was really looking to get some serious answers and I sure appreciate the people who've been able to chime in with it and give some serious good feedback... .
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:popcorn:
 
318willrun said:
^^somebody else's thread ^^

his thread ----
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:popcorn:
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Oh you been saving up for that one for a long time LOL
The Op and I are friends here locally and he has my number in case he needs any serious answers.. he knows I'm just joking..
this is just something you quote to start our little personal battle on someone else's thread and this is what makes things bad...
 
Oldmanmopar said:
The most effective and permanent way without welding is. Take small pieces of flat metal and after cleaning the back of the hole on the panel. glue them to the back using JB weld quick set, After they dry fill the hole from the outside with the same and cut them flush with a razor blade while still soft. Works pretty good. Once they are cured you won't hit them off. Primer and paint right over them. You just have to make sure the metal on the panel is clean where you are gluing the little pieces to. I just closed up emblem holes in a hood for a guy that way. No warpage
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This is an excellent idea!
I have a hood that is mint other than someone decided to mount twin scoops ('70 Swinger style) onto it and in the wrong place to boot...........
I think I'll try your tip to save this hood.

To the O.P., DO NOT braze the holes shut (with brass rod using an oxy and acetylene torch I take it) , the warpage would be incredible as well as paint and bondo won't stick to brass in the long term.
They used to use this method in the '50s to '70s before mig welders became popular.
I've heard of people soldering or leading the holes shut, but I have my doubts on how long it would last being dissimilar metals and all.

Whatever method you decide on, it has to be clean, clean, clean before you do it!

Heat is your enemy here, and I'm thinking the technique that OMM says is the safest and most durable.
J.B. weld is some strong ****!
 
Honestly though I have the same little holes all the way down my duster except for in the doors because I have changed them but I still have the Chrome and was just thinking maybe I would put the Chrome back on but I see you're looking for a temporary fix. I assumed you had no intention of putting the chrome back on?
 
j par said:
Oh you been saving up for that one for a long time LOL
The Op and I are friends here locally and he has my number in case he needs any serious answers.. he knows I'm just joking..
this is just something you quote to start our little personal battle on someone else's thread and this is what makes things bad...
Click to expand...
LOL... I thought u and I were friends and I have your number as well... I assumed you knew I was joking too :eek: (if ya dish it out, u have to take it!)
OK, enough on this thread ....
:lol:
 
318willrun said:
LOL... I thought u and I were friends and I have your number as well... I assumed you knew I was joking too :eek: (if ya dish it out, u have to take it!)
OK, enough on this thread ....
:lol:
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First off it's over when I say it's over. and one thing I do know about the op is he gets a big kick out of us battling, but maybe not on his thread LOL.. and the next thing you're going to say is I'm the kind of guy who likes to dish it out but I can't take it which is bullcrap... The battle rages on...
 
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There is alumafill or a steel type epoxy putty i used for some very small rust pinholes. My windshield guy suggested it, as they get some places where welding isnt feasable. Grind it, fill it,sand,prime and paint.
 
Back to the poor soul asking serious questions!!! lol
I admit I have never used this modern body panel glue but, if welding I not on the plate and whatever, can person cut up some say 20 Ga sheetmetal (4 x8sheet is like $35 here in T. ) and glue it to the backside of the panel and then simply fill whats left of the hole of GOOD body filler??
 
I dont see why not. Clean and metal prep. So rust wont migrate.
 
Tooljunkie said:
There is alumafill or a steel type epoxy putty i used for some very small rust pinholes. My windshield guy suggested it, as they get some places where welding isnt feasable. Grind it, fill it,sand,prime and paint.
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I have a customer who has used this product and he said it's just kind of like Bondo, but with metal flakes in it kind of smells the same...
 
All Metal. Its like body filler but has metal in it. Spreadable like filler but sets up like metal and is sandable. Most autobody stores have it. Can use filler over it .
 
Some good ideas here guys, thanks for the help. My first intention was to put a band-aid on it to buy time while I work on other things. This car needs a LOT of help and is ugly as hell. A little more ugly isn't going to be noticeable. I like the alternative-to-heat/welding ideas, I don't want to chance warping a really straight car. I do intend to forgo the chrome trim. More on this as I move forward. I think I will
 
My Dart GTS probably has a rear clip from a GT; it has holes in both rear panels for trim strips and a GT badge. They were all filled with body filler when I bought the car. I cleaned them all out and used a sheet metal patching method as described above. These photos are of the repair of a rust hole where the vinyl top met the body, but the process is the same.
Warping can be a problem, but as with any sheet metal welding, short beads with time allowed for cooling in between in the key. After grinding smooth (again using only short blasts), I use just a thin wipe of body filler.
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