Magnum 318 / 360 engine

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John Cailey

Crizila
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Payson, Az
My next project will probably include one of the above engines along with a 46RH /RE trans or? (something with over drive ) and fuel injection. Want to hit a few bone yards in my area looking for the above combo along with the factory computer and associated wiring. My question is; what years cars / trucks should I be looking for? I am looking at early 49 - 55 2 door wagons as my transplant vehicle. I will probably go with a street stroker kit and mild street friendly cam. I want to end up with a daily driver ( A/C, tilt, cruise, etc) that I can take on long trips if and when I want. Any input would be appreciated. John
 
calling my bluff! It is currently not so mobile storage...needs battery first and then rear brake line. Tires MIGHT make it to the state line. Oh well, worth a try.
 
My post didn't generate much feed back? Maybe if I simplify it and just say; Looking for a Dodge / Chrysler in my local bone yard with a 318 / 360 Magnum engine and drivetrain to swap in to my next project car. What years would I be looking for? Any years better than others? - avoiding the cracked heads problem, etc. John
 
How about a retitle? Magnum swap into 49-55 Mopar questions? Or pictures of anybody that has done this before? I guess if the heads had been replaced under warranty with the R/T versions, you'd be ahead of the game.
 
My post didn't generate much feed back? Maybe if I simplify it and just say; Looking for a Dodge / Chrysler in my local bone yard with a 318 / 360 Magnum engine and drivetrain to swap in to my next project car. What years would I be looking for? Any years better than others? - avoiding the cracked heads problem, etc. John

After about 1996 everything went to electronic as far as transmission controls go.
Since you are after the EFI and computer anyway, using a computer controlled trans shouldn't be an issue.
So in this case you would probably be well off to find a combo that is as late as possible in the 46 series. (727 with OD and converter lockup)

When I did my 5.9 and 42RH swap I got the trans out of a front end damaged truck, so the likelihood of the trans being in decent condition was a little higher.
Puled the pan and the contents as well as the fluid looked great, so that was the one.
 
magnums are all over cl. buy the whole truck and maybe use the dash and all. 96 up with obd2 would benefit you over obd1. don't overlook the dakotas/durangos if going 96 up. look on this site for other posts about putting a magnum into whatever. it will make you think about this,that and the other. good luck.
 
Thanks for the feed back all!! All good info I can use in my search. Just finished a 96 Dakota (318 & 46RE) in to a 74 Duster. Package came with no electronics, so I went "old school" with a 727. I want to "step up" with my next project ( Magnum, TPI, computer, OBD2. A whole truck purchase ( 96 + ) out of a yard is on my hit list. Is the 2wd verses 4wd 46 series trans just a matter of a tail shaft change?
 
My post didn't generate much feed back? Maybe if I simplify it and just say; Looking for a Dodge / Chrysler in my local bone yard with a 318 / 360 Magnum engine and drivetrain to swap in to my next project car. What years would I be looking for? Any years better than others? - avoiding the cracked heads problem, etc. John
John! Just seen the thread...

IF you get the computer with the engine and trans, then it makes no difference on the trans. RH is the Hyd., AKA, no computer needed, RE AKA electric/electronic shifted trans, computer needed.

All Magnum heads should be considered cracked and able to be run as is no issue since the cracks, if not out of control and freakishly huge, are not an issue.

Any engine/trans gear would do IMO.
So for me, the one with the lowest miles wins the spot. Your only need is a rear wheel drive truck/SUV.
 
John! Just seen the thread...

IF you get the computer with the engine and trans, then it makes no difference on the trans. RH is the Hyd., AKA, no computer needed, RE AKA electric/electronic shifted trans, computer needed.

All Magnum heads should be considered cracked and able to be run as is no issue since the cracks, if not out of control and freakishly huge, are not an issue.

Any engine/trans gear would do IMO.
So for me, the one with the lowest miles wins the spot. Your only need is a rear wheel drive truck/SUV.
Thanks Rob. Ya, The 96 318 Motor I bought had cracked heads ( 7 out of 8 chambers - between the seats ). Since I did some pocket port work on them anyway, I just had some fresh seats put in them. Will keep your post in mind for future head purchases though. I'm up to speed on 727 rebuilds, but never done a 46 series trans - RH or RE? I will put RWD and lo miles as part of my looking criteria. Thanks for the info, John
 
Your welcome John. FWIW, normally I don’t sell heads. Most of what I have laying around are old iron. Costly to ship, old and crusty. I do have a set of Magnum heads but have no idea if there cracked. They came on a long block parts trade. They will not be reused. Getting them to you would not be cost effective at all. Local to me is another story. We do not have junk yards galore anymore and those that remain have a high turn over rate for the scrap weight.

As for myself, I’ll make a move to the Trick Flow heads and upgrade the cam to a solid roller with a RPM intake, carb and headers. Car oil pan, new oil pump & distributor. Call it a day from there.
 
Your welcome John. FWIW, normally I don’t sell heads. Most of what I have laying around are old iron. Costly to ship, old and crusty. I do have a set of Magnum heads but have no idea if there cracked. They came on a long block parts trade. They will not be reused. Getting them to you would not be cost effective at all. Local to me is another story. We do not have junk yards galore anymore and those that remain have a high turn over rate for the scrap weight.

As for myself, I’ll make a move to the Trick Flow heads and upgrade the cam to a solid roller with a RPM intake, carb and headers. Car oil pan, new oil pump & distributor. Call it a day from there.
Nice plan Rob. Trick Flow is probably the way to go with a stroker kit and when you figure in head machining costs. Pic = my low cost ring squaring tool for under 4" bores ( reads 318).

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