Burned bulk head connection

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Machmeter1 said:
Hi Hops, does the distributor you send me match the ignition module in my car and should I keep the original ballast resistor in it's place?
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Yes go with a non jumped one. Thought you were going petronix? I have no idea why I would have sent that otherwise.
 
Mattax, yes it's a 65 model. Guess it got changed over the time.

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Machmeter1 said:
Mattax, yes it's a 65 model. Guess it got changed over the time.

View attachment 1715473034
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The last number is obliterated but originally must have been one of the standard option alternators list on the top of page 2 of this TSB. Looks like it may have been a production part number which is kindof cool.

https://www.hamtramck-historical.com/images/TSBs/1966/66-78_page1.jpg
https://www.hamtramck-historical.com/images/TSBs/1966/66-78_page2.jpg

Again not really important. It just reinforces the earlier conclusion that the problem wsa at the connection or something downstream.
 
Mattax, thanks for all the input. Let me make a short summary now:

-I don't have the original 69 wiring harness any more

-instead I have the Mopar ignition module wiring harness upgrade

-will remove the bad connector at the firewall.

-will replace the old black cable from the alternator with a 10 gauge wire, run it through the firewall and connect it to the existing wiring harness with a proper connection (actually just replacing that faulty connection)

-Discuss with Halifaxhops whether I should keep the Mopar ignition module and harness or remove it and go with Pertronix

- Run a second 10 gauge wire with a 14 fuseable link from Alternator to B (+) on starter relay.

Thanks Wolfgang
 
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Really only need a fusible link on the battery feed.
If the battery positive is accidentally grounded that's the only thing that will stop a big discharge.
If the alternator gets grounded then the field and ignition get no power and one way or the other alternator stops putting out power.
 
Machmeter1 said:
- Run a second 10 gauge wire with a 14 fuseable link from Alternator to B (+) on starter relay.
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My apologies. Again I was reading too quick. You can do that but the ammeter will not show charging and the fusible links will take twice as long to burn.
If for some reason the battery was being used a lot with the engine off or even at idle sometimes that's a reasonable plan. But then a voltmeter and/or remote shunted ammeter would be need to help monitor the electrical system.

In your case, you've said all of the other connections are good. So the load issue seems to be inside the cab and attaching to the starter relay doesn't help that very much. That's a long route through two fusible links and the bulkhead connector.

I think you are better off just running one 10 gage wire through the firewall (grommet or bulkhead connector) and making a good splice to the 12 gage wire (R6 inside). Or if you really want a connector, just one good one covered so no metal shows.

Charge the battery.
Reconnect the battery.
Clip on a multimeter set to DC voltage.
Observe the ammeter and the voltage.
It better be zero and around 12.7 Volts
-Start the car.
Assuming its on fast idle - 1200 to 1600 rpm.
Ammeter should show charging, maybe 10 amps quickly going to zero.
Voltmeter should show 14 to 15 Volts.

Fire extinguisher is good to have but should not be needed.
Cutting the electricity usually stops an electrical fire. That is always step 1.
Extinguisher is useful if something else catches fire.
Dry Chemical extinguisher will leave a mess, but if you have to use it, use it.
 
Mattax, 67Dart273, 65 Dartman and Halifaxhops, thanks for all the input and responses, I really appreciate it. It is a very nice move from all of you to answer questions over questions on this great forum. On my last restoration project, back in Austria, I had a retired electrician who restored, tested and modified my complete wiring harness. I just had to send it out to him and pay him an absolutely fair price - shame on me.

I guess this time I can't get away that easy - the cheating from back then caught up with me. Eventually, I have to learn and deal with electricity in my car.

I will post the progress of the work on the wiring harness. If I am about to do something wrong, please be so kind and jump in.

Here is the patient, just got him out. The wire insulation is still soft and no signs of heat or melting.
Looks like, only the brass connector on the bulkhead got burned.

Thanks, Wolfgang

IMG_20200219_202243846_LI.jpg
 
Yes.
Originals are an open barrel terminal that uses a second crimp to hold the insulation and provide some strain relief.
Pictures here. 1969 Dodge Dart - Engine Compartment Main Bulkhead Connector

It looks like factory air conditioning in the photo. You may find the engine slows just enough at at idle with the A/C running that the alternator can not generate enough power at 14 Volts. If so, the battery will start to supply power and you'll see the ammeter swing to discharge. A/C equiped cars usually got a slightly higher rate alternator. They also had a different pulley set (Crank, water pump, alternator) so might spin a little faster at any given engine rpm.
 
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Mattax, you are right, the car is factory AC, but I am still trying to find all the parts for it (brackets, tensioner pulleys), so for now I will run it without AC. Also talked again with Halifaxhops, gonna go with the Pertronix system and remove the Chrysler ignition module.
The engine wiring harness is than again original and matches the diagram in the service manual 1:1. Only "upgrade" Pertronix and jumped ballast resistor.
Of course I keep the original ballast resistor and pointer Distributor as back up.

Thanks Wolfgang
 
Kendog 170 said:
Here's some Fusible link info if you go that route. Also check their other articles for fixing Mopar wiring. It's a good read.
Catalog

Catalog
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That is what I suggested he doesn't do.
That might be useful if there was an issue with charging the battery or there were electrical accessories.
But that's not what's is going on here.
One size does not fit all.
 
Opps , my bad. Just read post 33.
Mattax said:
I think you are better off just running one 10 gage wire through the firewall (grommet or bulkhead connector) and making a good splice to the 12 gage wire (R6 inside). Or if you really want a connector, just one good one covered so no metal shows.
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Non of the shops around here had a quality plug version connector, so I spliced the wires. Like suggested before I crimped and soldered the open butt connector and used two shrinkable tubes to insulate the connection.
Carefully drilled a 6mm hole through the bulkhead and the clip on plug. Slided the 10 gauge wire through bulkhead, clip on plug and installed again two shrinkable tubes on the area, were the wire runs through the bulkhead.
I left around one feet more wire on the inside of the firewall - just in case.

I think it still looks close to original and should do the job for now.

There's no way to reach and inspect the Ammeter without removing the dash cluster.
Even though I had the front seats removed, it was a punishment to work and solder under the dash.

Glad this job is done.
Thanks for all the input.

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Mattax said:
Interesting that it was external. You're thinking it was a second shunt (in addition to the internal one). Could be. And the needle movement could have been calibrated to account for that. Or maybe they just changed the owners manual. LOL. If it said anything - instead of 40 to 40, optioned trucks get a 80 to 80 ammeter. :)
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The external brass shunt is the only shunt. Chrysler probably used the same ammeter {with a different face} [80 - 80]. And the shunt was used to limit the amount of current going thru the ammeter itself. The shunt was a piece of brass maybe .010 thick with 2 holes that slid over the studs.

Later trucks used a shunt system under the hood with small diameter wires going into the cab connected to a low current ammeter. Not a true reading ammeter.
 
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