Ever wonder whats in a replica battery?

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plyman

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Now that is 'classic'!
I thought they were just slip covers for regular Die-Hards......

The "Deluxe" 20H Group A-body battery that was stock was a whopping 38 Amp/Hours...about 200 CCA. Those 2 UPS batteries in parallel are probably close. I got a jump starter that takes 1 UPS battery, Duty cycle of about 5% crank for 10 seconds, let it rest for 3 minutes.
 
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That is not what my Yellow cap is!
 
harrisonm said:
What is a UPS battery?
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Find then on Power Wheels kids ride a-ongs and in electric scooters among other things. alarm panels use smaller scale. They are sealed so they cannot spill (but you can pry the top plates off and pull the rubber nipples off the cell reservoirs). They can dry out over time (2-3 years) but can be refilled and recharged for a little more life. Ive started my old 318 Dodge van with one!
 
i got a big one,..same size as reguler car/truck battery, been in my 80 d150 /6 for 3 years! cost 7 bucks threw a buddy at local electronics recyclers!
 
dang...I always thought it was this, but was afraid to look!

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My 24v cordless, rechargeable engine hoist runs off a computer UPS.
 
AND NOW AN irritating story from the old days

In the 90s I worked for a Motorola outfit, and installed E911 telco/ radio gear. Down in Ritzville, WA the SO had bought a new UPS. Took two big golf cart sized 6V batteries. it was 3 phase 240AC. The electrician wired it up, and it had a bypass switch for servicing. BEAR IN MIND this is a special switch. As you move the switch, in the middle of it's "throw" it CONNECTS the UPS output to the line power for a short time, before it "breaks." This bypasses the UPS so it's "dead" for service, and so that power is not glitched in doing so. Bear in mind the UPS output and the line power MUST be in perfect phase at this moment.

The electrician asked me to look it over and be certain he had not made a mistake, and then we "tested" it

Ker FREEKIN BLAMBO!!!! Smoke!!! Sparks!!!! NOISE!!!! FAIL!!!!! Turns out he HAD wired it correctly, there was something wrong with the way the UPS itself was configured. The company did not argue, they came out and repaired the UPSw
 
67Dart273 said:
AND NOW AN irritating story from the old days

In the 90s I worked for a Motorola outfit, and installed E911 telco/ radio gear. Down in Ritzville, WA the SO had bought a new UPS. Took two big golf cart sized 6V batteries. it was 3 phase 240AC. The electrician wired it up, and it had a bypass switch for servicing. BEAR IN MIND this is a special switch. As you move the switch, in the middle of it's "throw" it CONNECTS the UPS output to the line power for a short time, before it "breaks." This bypasses the UPS so it's "dead" for service, and so that power is not glitched in doing so. Bear in mind the UPS output and the line power MUST be in perfect phase at this moment.

The electrician asked me to look it over and be certain he had not made a mistake, and then we "tested" it

Ker FREEKIN BLAMBO!!!! Smoke!!! Sparks!!!! NOISE!!!! FAIL!!!!! Turns out he HAD wired it correctly, there was something wrong with the way the UPS itself was configured. The company did not argue, they came out and repaired the UPSw
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I have had one lead acid battery explode in a car and man what a noise.
Not to mention the acid going everywhere.
I layed a deep socket on the top of the battery and it rolled over against the positive post and the inner fender metal. BOOM!

BTW, discarded UPS units with a dead battery make great light duty 120v inverters.:D
Just connect the original battery wires inside it to your car battery and you have 120 volt inverter.
 
some UPS units are 24V
 
YY1 said:
some UPS units are 24V
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Mostly talking about the average unit for a home computer system.
A lot of people just toss them when the battery dies.
They easily run small power tools like a drill or polisher.
 
The one on my hoist is a medium to small unit- 1000VA with 2 12v batteries.

Funny, because the hydraulic pump motor I needed to power was 24v, and I was trying to figure a way to get the UPS to charge the batteries at 12 (which I assumed) and then rig up a switch to change the connection from parallel to series, etc, and after I opened it up- wabam, it was 24v, so no further effort required other than making longer wires.
 
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