318 LA rebuild after losing a valve seat

The number on the crank from post #40 did not show up from my book. But your crank is different than a 1970 crank from a 318 with the small rods.

You mentioned .040 bearings but a .030 under crank in a previous post?

Each connecting rod cap MUST be matched to its own connecting rod. Each rod and cap is numbered on the side of the big end of the rod and cap. The numbers go outward. Check your numbers. With the block upside down, loosen all rod nuts a half a turn. The crank should turn by using the harmonic balancer. Remove a rod cap, put a piece of 3/8'' rubber gas line over the bolts to protect the crank surface, turn the crank to push the rod down, slide out the bearing shell, and push out the piston and rod with a block of wood. Slide the bearings back on, and assemble the rod 'sideways' on [out of] the block. Snug the cap nuts. Rod move smoothly? ---- Tighten the nuts. Still smooth? Remove the rod assy. Remove all pistons. Check the ring gap when the pistons are on their way out.

Reassemble only after you've found a problem.