Why not a 413 ?

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The RV external water jacket type; basically a port on the front of the head that a water tube can be connected to. I do not know what the valve sizes are, figured the heads were crap.
 
Here’s a little :poke: from me.......

If you go the 413 route...... I’m going to take that as a sign that you’re not reeeeaaaalllyyy shooting for 10’s.:steering:
 
Here’s a little :poke: from me.......

If you go the 413 route...... I’m going to take that as a sign that you’re not reeeeaaaalllyyy shooting for 10’s.:steering:
small block mind inquiring....... Don't worry, going small block short term, but 440 will be the budget motor :)
 
Once again from 440 source

Fact #2:

There are SIGNIFICANT differences between blocks in the main bearing saddles and support webbing.

Lets start with "RB" raised deck blocks.

View attachment 1715473300

What you are looking at above is the number 2 main bearing support on a 75 or earlier 440. This is the area that surrounds where the top shell of the main bearings fit into the block, and the supports that lead from this point diagonally up into the block, to the bottom of the cylinders. The thickness of the main support is labeled "A" while the thickness of the metal forming a "shell" around the bearing is labeled "B." These are the two areas that differ considerably among different blocks, and we will focus on measurements of these two areas. Please note that all the measurements we are using in this section are averages off of multiple blocks, to eliminate the possibility of one block having more or less iron used as an irregularity. The "A" measurement typically is between 1.900" and 2 inches. "B" typically measures about .375" (3/8") All 440's cast before '76 and some after will have these main saddle support measurements. This includes ALL 2536430 (1966-72) blocks, ALL 3698830-440 (1973-74) and some 4006630-440 (Late 1975-79) blocks. I have also found 426 Hemis, Max Wedges and even Mopar's megablocks to also use these measurements. Now on to the late model 440 blocks...

View attachment 1715473301

SOME 440's cast in '76 and later have CONSIDERABLY thicker main saddle supports. The only block we have found to have these supports are the 4006630-440 casting #, which was used from late 75 until the end of production in 1979. In case you have heard that 440's were discontinued in 1978, this was for cars only. 440's continued to be offered in trucks and motorhomes all through 1979, and we have had many 440 blocks stamped with the 1979 model year on them.

Shown above is a picture of a 4006630-440 (1978 model) 440 block. The "A" measurement typically is about 3.190". This is about 60% thicker than the early 440 blocks shown above. "B" typically measures about .520", which is still about 40% thicker. The blocks with these thicker supports were not cast during any specific date period. There is no external markings or numbers which show they are different from the other blocks. They DO seem to be more commonly used for truck motors, however just because you have a truck 440 does not mean it will automatically have the thicker main supports. One important fact is that while 4006630-440 casting # blocks are the only blocks we have found to have these thicker supports, not all these blocks will have them. There appears to be no other way to tell if a block has them or not other then actually looking at the supports themselves. Without the crank and rods removed from the block, it is very hard to tell.

Now on to low deck "B" blocks.

View attachment 1715473302

Shown above is a #2 main saddle off of a 1970 model 383. We have found all 71 and earlier low deck "B" blocks (including 361's, etc) to have this type of main saddles. "A" in this case measures between 1.900 and 2 inches, and "B" measures about .350" These are probably the smallest measurements of all the big blocks. Now lets compare this to the 400 blocks below.

View attachment 1715473303

Shown above is a 3614230 (1972-73) 400 block. These are the thickest of any blocks around, bar none. we didn't even bother to mark the "A" dimension because it is so huge it is practically off the map, and the "B" dimension came in at a whopping 1.350! When you compare this to the 383 and 440 pictures above it makes them look like a joke. One important side note however, is that there are some 3614230 blocks that DO NOT have the thick main supports. Before you spend hundreds of dollars to ship that block across the country, make sure it has the thick mains!! Be sure to always measure or at least see a clear picture.

View attachment 1715473304

Moving on, if you can't seem to find the superblock above, a good second choice is shown above; a 1973 400 block, casting #3698630. Notice the main saddle supports are CONSIDERABLY thicker then both the 383 AND the pre-76 440 shown above. "A" in this case measures 3.750" and "B" measures .575! This is close to a quarter inch more metal in the area surrounding the bearing shell, and the support leading up to the cylinder is almost twice as wide! We have found the thickness of "B" to vary slightly, even among blocks with the same casting # cast during the same month of the same year. In this case we have found blocks between .525 and .575, but still worlds above the .350-.375 measurements listed above for 383's and 440's. Combine this with the fact that the cylinders are shorter (since the block deck height is shorter) compared to an RB, and you can see that a 400 block is ABSOLUTELY stronger then any other block made.

But wait, you say. "I know the early 400 blocks are good...I heard the later ones went back to thin supports...." WRONG (well mostly.)

View attachment 1715473305

Shown above is the #2 saddle on a late model (76-78) 400 block, casting #4006530-400. The "B" measurement remains the same as the early 400 block at about .525 -.575, while the "A" goes down to roughly 3.300, making the support only less than half an inch narrower then the early 400 (still almost 90% of the width), and still over 1 1/4 inches wider then 383's and early 440's.

The end result? Pretty ironic. Chrysler famed powerplants that dominated the muscle car era, 383's and 440's have the weakest supports of all, while their "smog" motors, 400's and late model 440's, which couldn't get out of their own way, have blocks that are considerably more reinforced and able to handle much higher power levels.

There is absolutely no physical difference between a block with an HP or HP2 stamp and one without.
I stand corrected. Thanks for the link
 
Think the $3700 budget has a MW intake & carb left in it...... along with opening up the heads to MW size?
 
Weren't the 413 mw 1 of the first full body mopars to go 10s?
I agree, for sure 413's were hay in the day. But, I can get a late 70's 440 real cheap, and these blocks have a lot going for them. I like the articles you posted, by the way
 
Think the $3700 budget has a MW intake & carb left in it...... along with opening up the heads to MW size?

In the event he couldn't find a quality used manifold at a reduced price. Here is a nice new manifold.


440 Aluminum Max-Wedge Intake Manifold ("As Cast" Port)

RMWACRIM.jpg


440 Aluminum Max Wedge Intake Manifold "As Cast" Port. 500-850cfm Carbs Fit (For Heads with or without Heat Cross-Over) Price (Manifold Only)

RMWACRIM-14

Your Price $1,495.00
Qty
Customer Reviews


Bought the seventh manifold A&A made. Put it on an un-modified smog motor. No down side, engine runs better even though it is over carbed and under camed. Reduced the 40 to 70 MPH by one second. Also looks great.
 
One of my friends used the std port A&A manifold on a 440 with 452 heads.
Had a couple of Ede 500’s on it.

Bowl blended heads, quench dome pistons, mild hyd cam, hp ex manifolds....... made about 340rwhp.
 
Street Dominator, Xcellerator, TM7, or Torker?
If you find an RB street dominator for 125, buy it! I’ve been hunting for one for 3 years.


The Torker II would be my next choice with the RPM a close third.
 
Street Dominator, Xcellerator, TM7, or Torker?
YES, though the SD would be my last choice of the 4.....

If you find an RB street dominator for 125, buy it! I’ve been hunting for one for 3 years.
The Torker II would be my next choice with the RPM a close third.
Torker II or Xcellerator very likely
 
The MP single plane was patterned off the big block street dominator. It’s recommended in the MP engine manual. But I know several old school folks who swear by the TM7 as if it were mentioned in scripture. One in particular that had one on an A12 road runner with 4.56 gears, a huge three barrel Holley, and a racer brown solid cam from 1971-73.
 
I'm gonna kill your budget. lol
the trick flow top end kit is your answer, 3900 bucks, you could get it for 3500 if you get a 10% off coupon. :D
hurry Pittsburghracer might still have a coupon. lol :)
 
YES, though the SD would be my last choice of the 4.....


Torker II or Xcellerator very likely
Why would the street dominator be your last choice? It’s been tested time and time again, by multiple sources and to this date, is usually scored in the top 3 on engines from bone stock to 600+ hp, often having the BEST average Hp and Tq curves. Our performing all three of the others listed. The Torker II usually comes in very similar
 
Why would the street dominator be your last choice? It’s been tested time and time again, by multiple sources and to this date, is usually scored in the top 3 on engines from bone stock to 600+ hp, often having the BEST average Hp and Tq curves. Our performing all three of the others listed. The Torker II usually comes in very similar
strip dominator or street dominator?? Honestly, the best deal that comes along will be what I nab. Most likely the common Torker II. Thus the reason my budget build motor will take time, and I'm throwing a small block in to play around for the time being.
 
Street Dominator. There were no B/RB strip Dominators that I am aware of.
 
Street Dominator. There were no B/RB strip Dominators that I am aware of.
Again, I'm not overly familiar with the big blocks, though I've owned some. Most of my mopars were powered by small blocks. I've never owned a 413, and I don't know any that are running them, so that's why I started the thread. I do see them for sale.
 
strip dominator or street dominator?? Honestly, the best deal that comes along will be what I nab. Most likely the common Torker II. Thus the reason my budget build motor will take time, and I'm throwing a small block in to play around for the time being.
Street Dominator. On big blocks, they are awesome, the small block versions SUCK.

Torker II is definitely more common and a solid piece too.
 
Street Dominator. On big blocks, they are awesome, the small block versions SUCK.

Torker II is definitely more common and a solid piece too.
I will definitely keep an eye out ..... As Spring/Summer starts to move in, my opportunities will grow.
 
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