318 LA rebuild after losing a valve seat
BTW.... very important.... in your pix of the reversed rod cap, are the cap bolts snugged down? I ask, as that significant gap showing between ends of the rod bearing halves should not be there. The ends of the bearing halves should butt against each other and slightly crush when you torque the rod fasteners.
The bolts were not snugged down, only drawn in a bit to bring them together. After correcting the orientation and snugging, they are matched nicely.
From post #77 ---- the rod bearings are incorrect. The bearing tangs must be on the same side.
From post #77 ---- carefully remove the oil rings from the piston. See if the outer rings are still flat. You may get lucky.
Keep up the battle.
That picture was to show how they were incorrectly oriented, I corrected it since then. And those oil rings are garbage. Very much destroyed.
I plasti-gauged the journals, and they all had +/-.001" clearance, well within the .0005-.0020" from the manual. I cleaned the bearings and journals once again, lubed them with engine honey, and installed the first piston. With the cap on but not snugged, it rotates. Once I snug it the very least, incredible resistance. I removed the piston, inspected the rings, all good. I cleaned the honey off and used oil this time. Same thing, so much resistance I can't turn the crank with just one piston in. Or if I can, it's jerky and sticky, and I'm using a LOT of force. Like, the engine stand wants to tip over I'm trying so hard.
I used a micrometer on the journals, and they read 2.109" for #1 & 2, 2.110" for 3 & 4, 2.109" for 5 & 6, and 2.108" for 7 & 8.
