Possible kick down solution!

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Tad

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Hang in there while I try to explain this. I woke up this morning and thought of an idea to modify my current linkage to make it work with my thermo quad. Basically I set the slotted rod on the carburetor at a position that the throttle could fully open when slid all the way back in the slotted rod. I’ll have a spring run from the carburetor rod forward to a an extension of the slotted rod. I’ll have an equal strength spring to use as the return for the kickdown linkage. as the throttle Pulls it will pull on the Forward tight spring allowing the throttle to come back but also pulling the kickdown linkage back. when the kick down linkage hits it’s end point there will still be some space for the throttle to move back against sting tension in the slot.
Yellow spring will be a tight spring that will allow the throttle to move back but also have enough tension to pull the kick down linkage backwards the red spring will be the return spring for the kickdown linkage.
I know it’s confusing and it may not work but once I get it all marked up I’ll take a picture.
 
Tad said:
View attachment 1715475027 Hang in there while I try to explain this. I woke up this morning and thought of an idea to modify my current linkage to make it work with my thermo quad. Basically I set the slotted rod on the carburetor at a position that the throttle could fully open when slid all the way back in the slotted rod. I’ll have a spring run from the carburetor rod forward to a an extension of the slotted rod. I’ll have an equal strength spring to use as the return for the kickdown linkage. as the throttle Pulls it will pull on the Forward tight spring allowing the throttle to come back but also pulling the kickdown linkage back. when the kick down linkage hits it’s end point there will still be some space for the throttle to move back against sting tension in the slot.
Yellow spring will be a tight spring that will allow the throttle to move back but also have enough tension to pull the kick down linkage backwards the red spring will be the return spring for the kickdown linkage.
I know it’s confusing and it may not work but once I get it all marked up I’ll take a picture.
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You still messing with that? Like said before, the back of the slot should be touching the carb linkage pin. If the rest of the linkage isn't correct for the combination I would get a aftermarket cable like Locar or the like and get rid of all the BS you have going on there. Ne reason to reinvent the wheel.
 
toolmanmike said:
You still messing with that? Like said before, the back of the slot should be touching the carb linkage pin. If the rest of the linkage isn't correct for the combination I would get a aftermarket cable like Locar or the like and get rid of all the BS you have going on there. Ne reason to reinvent the wheel.
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I am still working on it. More of just something to do. A challenge. I appreciate everyone’s responses and I know the best thing to do would be buy something else.
 
The linkage should stay eye to eye through out its travel. The slot in the arm is a safety thing incase the trans linkage gets stuck the throttle can still return. You are getting to involved here. . Just put a spring from the linkage pivot to the throttle pin for a return of the linkage. Looks like your trying to re-invent the wheel and you made it square. LOL
 
Oldmanmopar said:
The linkage should stay eye to eye through out its travel. The slot in the arm is a safety thing incase the trans linkage gets stuck the throttle can still return. You are getting to involved here. . Just put a spring from the linkage pivot to the throttle pin for a return of the linkage. Looks like your trying to re-invent the wheel and you made it square. LOL
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Exactly and mean while, you're damaging your transmission because it doesn't have any throttle valve pressure until you floor it.
 
^ All good advice above. In the first pic above - you are still missing the factory spring between the carb stud pin and the pivot "shackle". - the right of your red/orange markup highlight. Don't buy aftermarket - the factory stuff works well when set up correctly. Your transmission will absolutely be damaged by lack of hydraulic pressure line pressure. Appears you have a factory cast intake. There was good advice in the other thread as well.
 
Demonic said:
^ All good advice above. In the first pic above - you are still missing the factory spring between the carb stud pin and the pivot "shackle". - the right of your red/orange markup highlight. Don't buy aftermarket - the factory stuff works well when set up correctly. Your transmission will absolutely be damaged by lack of hydraulic pressure line pressure. Appears you have a factory cast intake. There was good advice in the other thread as well.
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Yes, it is a factory cast intake. And I agree all great advice above. I’m just tinkering looking at different things. Haven’t driven it yet like this. It’s frustrating trying to return everything to normal or find original parts when someone else has taken everything apart. I was also told that a 340 was never put in front of a 904 which basically makes it difficult to get linkage correct for that combination. Would the locar stuff totally solve that problem?
 
Tad said:
Yes, it is a factory cast intake. And I agree all great advice above. I’m just tinkering looking at different things. Haven’t driven it yet like this. It’s frustrating trying to return everything to normal or find original parts when someone else has taken everything apart. I was also told that a 340 was never put in front of a 904 which basically makes it difficult to get linkage correct for that combination. Would the locar stuff totally solve that problem?
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It should. It looks like there are a few different kits but all are for 904's regardless of what it's in.
 
Motor size doesn't matter...a combination of levers in the KD linkage will get the movement you need. You can try changing the lever at the trans...they're available in different lengths for different throws...and , yes, a spring from that 1st pivot to the throttle arm stud will solve the return to idle question.

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Tad said:
I was also told that a 340 was never put in front of a 904 which basically makes it difficult to get linkage correct for that combination.
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Yes and no.

No because whether it is a 340 or 318 is not very important.
The key thing is the transmission throttle lever rotation to be correctly in responsed to the carb's throttle opening.
Get everything for 904 with 318 that has a dual plane intake. It has to be for dual plane becaue the single plane linkage will be too short on a dual plane application.
 
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As stated in your first post, your one piece system will never work correctly in your A Body. You need the three rod, two bellcrank system on the A Body!
 
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