Three spring relocation questions:

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mhuppertz

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1. When the rear springs are moved inboard does it adversely affect handling?

2. Does relocating the springs buy you any tire width without mini-tubs?

3. If moving the springs inboard causes excessive body roll, could a fat sway bar control that?
 
1. Im sure it dose but to a very small degree. You are moving the pivot inward creating a larger fulcrum so yeah i would think a little bit more roll is introduced.

2. Yes but not as much as doing both.

3. ( i don't know?) I dont run a rear or a front sway bar beacuse i dont care about corners.
I want to go as fast as possible in a straight line, thats why i run a large rear tire....

Lots of new cars run an 8 inch wheel and corner well. New RS Camaro, new non GT mustang...

What do you want to beat?

A 1965 Corvette? Or a 2020 ZL1?
 
1. Im sure it dose but to a very small degree. You are moving the pivot inward creating a larger fulcrum so yeah i would think a little bit more roll is introduced.

2. Yes but not as much as doing both.

3. ( i don't know?) I dont run a rear or a front sway bar beacuse i dont care about corners.
I want to go as fast as possible in a straight line, thats why i run a large rear tire....

Lots of new cars run an 8 inch wheel and corner well. New RS Camaro, new non GT mustang...

What do you want to beat?

A 1965 Corvette? Or a 2020 ZL1?

I just don't want to end up in the weeds if I have to take a corner like my old Hemi Road Runner would with skinnys in the front and fatties in the back.
 
I think now days a lot of folks just want the car to drive it self and dont spend the time or take the risk to learn how to drive what their *** is planted in.

You would be blown away at wha can be done in a shitty car if you are willing to push it.

Hard throttle!!! HARD on the binders, then turn. (Gotta move that weight on to the front. Not enough throttle = off the track.) Next power out and slide that *** around.

I thought i was a good driver until i spent the long dollar on some driving classes.
Now i realize i have a lot to learn.

I went into the class thinking i was good. Never once did my instructor say lift... all i had im my headset was "THROTTLE!!!!!!! NOW BRAKE"... Never once did i hear slow for the straight..

:lol:

If the front is pushing steer with the skinny pedal...
 
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I think now days a lot of folks just want the car to drive it self and dont spend the time or take the risk to learn how to drive what their *** is planted in.

You would be blown away at wha can be done in a shitty car if you are willing to push it.

Hard throttle!!! HARD on the binders, then turn. (Gotta move that weight on to the front. Not enough throttle = off the track.) Next power out and slide that *** around.

I thought i was a good driver until i spent the long dollar on some driving classes.
Now i realize i have a lot to learn.

I pit crewed for formula Mazda and got some driving lessons from pretty good drivers. Been steering with throttles and driving junk with too much power most of my life! Just want to make sure if I blow a tire at the big end it will not do something unexpected to the last car I will likely run.
 
If you're talking the 3/4" offset kit; comments in the Quote

1. When the rear springs are moved inboard does it adversely affect handling? On the street,no, cuz I put bigger tires on,lol

2. Does relocating the springs buy you any tire width without mini-tubs? Yes,the springs and the inner tubs pretty much line up to a plumb-line. You can move the sidewall over until it hits the inner side of the tub, pound out all the areas that need clearancing, then push the sidewalls out far enough so they don't rub; which varies by your driving style, type of bushings,shackle length,and ride-height. I lowered my car and run 325/50-15s @1/4 clearance in straightline work with modest cornering. And with 295/50-15 at about 1/2" and anything goes.

3. If moving the springs inboard causes excessive body roll, could a fat sway bar control that? I can not perceive any difference.
Be careful with a rear sway bar, it can get you into a world of trouble... if you don't have a matching front.

To achieve best results I narrowed my rear for 4.5bs wheels and 325/50-15s lightly rubbing, then pushed them out with spacers. The 325s needed the outer lips bent up a lil,not rolled out. Watch out for that outboard stiffening bulge which likes to come down on the sidewall if you lower it too far. After the 325s fit, the 295s have miles of room.
I am 100% a streeter, and a backroads burner.
 
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Just can't bring myself to cut an original, rust-free 1969 Dart GT, although I am going to have to weld in sub frame connectors or risk twisting the unibody the first time it hooks.
Off set shackles is all you need if you aint gonna tub it.
 
I pit crewed for formula Mazda and got some driving lessons from pretty good drivers. Been steering with throttles and driving junk with too much power most of my life! Just want to make sure if I blow a tire at the big end it will not do something unexpected to the last car I will likely run.

If a tire lets go on the big end you best be right with your maker and if you get out of that you better be bringing a case of beer to your cage builder beacuse you are probably SOL and at the whim of forces out side your control/concern...


:)
 
I will probably only run it at the strip once, the get thrown out for not having a cage. It will see mostly Street fun. Subaru kinds need an attitude adjustment!
 
The 1/2" offset spring kit allows for just as much tire as the full 3" relocation if you're not going to do the mini-tub. On a '69 Dart about the widest tire you can run with the stock spring locations and no quarter lip rolling or trimming is a 245. Maybe a 255, but that's more likely on a '70+ Dart. The tolerances on the later cars allowed a little more room.

The stock tubs by themselves are borderline for a 275, so unless you minitub it that's about the best you can do. A 1/2" spring offset kit will let you do that. On the bright side, the 1/2" offset is much easier, the hangers and shackles just bolt on. Just have to move the perches. On a '69 the 275's will still be tight fit. But if you're not going to do the mini-tub the wheel tubs are the limiting factor anyway.
 
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