Adjustable Strut Rods
What holds the bushing from sliding off of the pin? I know your going to say the wheel pushing the outer part of the control arm back which keeps the pin pushed tight in the bushing . So I guess we will just have to dive around with our foot on the brake.. The only thing that would hold that together would be shims in front of the torsion bar clip and rely on the torsion bar to hold the ram in place.
The torsion bar is installed loose so it can grow, shrink, move and be different lengths when installed, as it should. Besides that the rear clip wouldn't hold that constant pressure. The OEM bushing is what holds the lower control arm from moving rearward away from the K-member .
As I have stated when the OEM bushing is tore It is shot. Because the arm can move front and back. Poly bushings only prevents side to side movement. Not front and back. How can you not see that? You slip them on with lube. What do you think would hold them there. Without the torsion bar in place you could pry them off easily.
I don't care how you install them there is no wrong or correct way they just slip on with lube. Now the OEM there is a procedure. If you install the incorrectly and you rip them. If you tighten the pin Nut when not at ride height you rip them. You my friend really do not know what you are talking about.
Install poly bushings incorrectly? Give me a brake. Any real man could do it. Lube it up and slip it in. Then you let it shrink and slip back out. LOL
The strut rods locate the LCA fore/aft, not the bushings. Pressure from the tire isn't even a part of it, that wouldn't work for one second with the car in motion. Those directional forces are constantly changing as the suspension works and the wheels turn. There is no need to shim the torsion bar, that's just completely ridiculous.
The OEM bushing would tear in a heart beat if it was what kept the LCA from moving backward. Even with all OEM bushings, the strut rod is what keeps the LCA from moving back too far and tearing the OE rubber bushings, that's why the factory put them there. The rubber in the LCA bushings would just rip right out without them. Rubber bushing material does not keep the LCA in place. Think about that, you're asserting that the rubber in the LCA bushing is structural. That's ridiculous.
You can absolutely install poly LCA bushings incorrectly. The picture you showed is a perfect example. That LCA is not in the proper location, and likely that's because the strut rod is the wrong length. If the LCA isn't fully seated against the lip on the LCA pin then the installation is wrong. Period. It would be no different than pressing a rubber LCA bushing half way onto the pin and running it like that, it can't function properly that way.
There's absolutely a procedure for installing poly LCA bushings, and it's not the same as the OE bushings. They must be lubricated, because unlike the rubber bushings the poly bushing must rotate on the pin so the LCA can move. There's almost no flex like the rubber bushing depends on. Because there's almost no flex, the strut rod length is much more critical. The OE rubber set up is more forgiving, but all that flex is slop in the suspension. Properly installed, adjusted and tuned poly or Delrin bushings will last longer and provide better handling. Installed incorrectly they'll fail just like if you install the rubber bushings improperly.
