Truth about roller cams.... BEFORE you make the switch......

If you haven't read my "other thread", let me share something I'm experiencing now. You are being told by the gurus, utube, and everywhere else that your flat tappet cam is big risk on break-in, and keeping that zinc in the oil to keep it alive. The roller cam is the beat-all answer, right? ONLY IF you know...… know that:

• Different cam grinders use different material on their roller cams!
• Comp cams recommends the "bronze" distributor drive gear. But are you aware if it's a street car, that the bronze gear shears and loses tolerance after 3k miles? And those shearing flakes are in your oil??? Or, you can order the Crane melonized gear-only for 90 bucks. - BUT, needs to be used when both are new.
• Hughes claims the factory magnum gear drive can be used with "their" cams
• IF you get a factory roller cam reground, you can use the factory gear drive - unless they re-heat treat it!!!
• Crane told me not to use their melonized cam gear where the bronze gear had been already, for fear of the wear pattern in the cam. I called competition cams, and they said "no worries, the bronze will wear before it ever wears into their cam gear". Who do i believe????
• Not all billet cams have the same gear. AGAIN, every cam grinder is different.

This is my learnings so far. I've seen it once, I've seen it a 100 times, always the roller cam suggestion but NEVER read the information I just listed above.

• Roller cams are great, but KNOW what the cam grinder uses, and what you need for your cars purpose going into it. Hope I saved somebody the frustration I'm going through now....