Truth about roller cams.... BEFORE you make the switch......

DID YOU KNOW???

  • I didn't know, thanks!!!!

    Votes: 10 55.6%
  • this is common knowledge, catch up with the times 318WR!!

    Votes: 8 44.4%

  • Total voters
    18
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I called and talked with Oregon Cam Grinders today about the cam that I'm installing in the 5.9 going in the truck. He said the cam I bought was a regrind from a factory production cam and using the factory gear drive was no issue so long as it looks to be in good shape.
 
It doesn't, just depends of the material of the cam. It's not about additional force, but the wear of the different materials.
BINGO! Depends on the material of the cam. It's what's being echoed and the reason that I started this thread to inform others there is more than just "grabbing a roller and yer troubles be gone".
 
Like using an old shaft with new cam? Using an old shaft that's already worn opens up the clearances between it and your new cam. Just better to have everything new. I don't think it's as much as compromising the intermediate shaft as much as just having everything in it's intended tolerance. Slope affects timing, can lead to more wear and failure... you wouldn't use old bearings with new rods would you? That's just what I'd imagine why
No not a used shaft just an orginal version. Like a original shaft is like 40 bucks the hardened bronze gear shaft is 145 I don't understand why you need that shaft with a new cam what changes that the original style wouldnt work
 
No not a used shaft just an orginal version. Like a original shaft is like 40 bucks the hardened bronze gear shaft is 145 I don't understand why you need that shaft with a new cam what changes that the original style wouldnt work
It's about metals that don't like rubbing against each other.
If you have factory cast iron roller cam and swap in a billet cam, the original gear material is no longer compatible.
Swap a cast one for a cast one and you can use factory style cheaper gear.
 
It's about metals that don't like rubbing against each other.
If you have factory cast iron roller cam and swap in a billet cam, the original gear material is no longer compatible.
Swap a cast one for a cast one and you can use factory style cheaper gear.
And honestly, 3 decades of cam swapping flat tappets I've never encountered this till the last two projects I got going on with roller cams. I love to learn, and I want to inform others to save a mopar from catastrophe.
 
It's about metals that don't like rubbing against each other.
If you have factory cast iron roller cam and swap in a billet cam, the original gear material is no longer compatible.
Swap a cast one for a cast one and you can use factory style cheaper gear.
That makes alot of sence now lol I gotta check on that then cause I planned on using my original intermediate shaft I may have to buy a new one. I'm using a lunati voodoo cam hydraulic flat tappet.
 
That makes alot of sence now lol I gotta check on that then cause I planned on using my original intermediate shaft I may have to buy a new one. I'm using a lunati voodoo cam hydraulic flat tappet.
It would be unlikely any hydraulic flat tappet camshaft would be anything other than cast iron, but check with Lunati on the one you are looking.
If it's cast, stock intermediate shaft gear material is compatible.
 
And along this line, I've read a 100 roller cam suggestions to people building motors, even newbies. And I've never read on this site where somebody said "be sure and buy that new hardened gear". Maybe it has, and maybe somebody asked and had it answered, but it's not the general remark when somebody suggest a roller cam. Thus, I'm sounding the horn!
A fellow Hot Rodder friend is rebuilding his 528 Hemi and is installing a Crower billet over .600 lift solid lift cam. He has also installed the coated steel distributor gear from Hughes.
We will see if it works in a couple months when he gets the engine installed. It wont take long after he gets it running because the man is a driving fool.
 
The main topic here should not be any issue with the Voodoo HFT .... this is (almost) all about roller cam materials not being compatible with the stock gear. In the Lunati catalog, look at the cam PN. If it has footnote 18 by the cam or cam kit PN, it requires a gear upgrade. Howeer, this footnote does not appear for any of their FT cams, hydraulic or solid, so you are 'home-free', dartfreak75 .

Tolerances opened up, wear of the old shaft, extra torque driving an HV pump are all entirely different matters from the main topic.

Good to see you on here, dartfreak! Been wondering how ya bin...
 
The main topic here should not be any issue with the Voodoo HFT .... this is (almost) all about roller cam materials not being compatible with the stock gear. In the Lunati catalog, look at the cam PN. If it has footnote 18 by the cam or cam kit PN, it requires a gear upgrade. Howeer, this footnote does not appear for any of their FT cams, hydraulic or solid, so you are 'home-free', dartfreak75 .

Tolerances opened up, wear of the old shaft, extra torque driving an HV pump are all entirely different matters from the main topic.

Good to see you on here, dartfreak! Been wondering how ya bin...
Hey ole buddy. I been good. It's nice to be back. Finally doing some work on my car again. I have too many projects at once going.
 
A fellow Hot Rodder friend is rebuilding his 528 Hemi and is installing a Crower billet over .600 lift solid lift cam. He has also installed the coated steel distributor gear from Hughes.
We will see if it works in a couple months when he gets the engine installed. It wont take long after he gets it running because the man is a driving fool.

I bet it will work ,it does in my 505 wedge.
 
some cams have a gear of a different materiel swedged on
and

Introducing for 2020, our HARDKORE Tool Steel cam cores | Jones Cams
case hardened all the way through

http://jonescams.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/TOUGHER-STRONGER-BETTER-1.pdf

Our HARDKORE Tool Steel Cams are designed with a pressed on, and pinned Distributor gear.

This allows for a much tighter tolerance in concentricity between the gear and the cam centerline.

On conventional "1-piece" cams, the gear is machined on the cam before it's heat treated, where it distorts and bends, greatly effecting the gear's concentricity.

Our gears can also be replaced if they're ever damaged.

Do not see any for Mopar
http://jonescams.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/HARDKORE-TS-parts.pdf
 
  • It says its billet on the link you posted. Click on "specifications" and it says billet steel.
  • cam was in the van when I bought it, along with the bronze gear. No chance for me to call an expert. :)
  • again, there continues to be some that say bronze is great for years of road service, and the cam companies and many articles I've read in the last few days have said differently.

I looked and looked when I was on my desktop and couldn't find the word "billet" but on my phone it's right there. Case closed ;)

I know you inhereted this combo as is, just pointing out to others that when people suggest custom, there's more to it than just the lobes.

I agree on the bronze debate. Hard saying, not knowing.. Personally, I would try to avoid a bronze gear too.
 
If you haven't read my "other thread", let me share something I'm experiencing now. You are being told by the gurus, utube, and everywhere else that your flat tappet cam is big risk on break-in, and keeping that zinc in the oil to keep it alive. The roller cam is the beat-all answer, right? ONLY IF you know...… know that:
  • Different cam grinders use different material on their roller cams!
  • Comp cams recommends the "bronze" distributor drive gear. But are you aware if it's a street car, that the bronze gear shears and loses tolerance after 3k miles? And those shearing flakes are in your oil??? Or, you can order the Crane melonized gear-only for 90 bucks. - BUT, needs to be used when both are new.
  • Hughes claims the factory magnum gear drive can be used with "their" cams
  • IF you get a factory roller cam reground, you can use the factory gear drive - unless they re-heat treat it!!!
  • Crane told me not to use their melonized cam gear where the bronze gear had been already, for fear of the wear pattern in the cam. I called competition cams, and they said "no worries, the bronze will wear before it ever wears into their cam gear". Who do i believe????
  • Not all billet cams have the same gear. AGAIN, every cam grinder is different.
This is my learnings so far. I've seen it once, I've seen it a 100 times, always the roller cam suggestion but NEVER read the information I just listed above.
  • Roller cams are great, but KNOW what the cam grinder uses, and what you need for your cars purpose going into it. Hope I saved somebody the frustration I'm going through now....

Yes I knew all that and I could add some----BUT BUT roller cams are the best thing eva! J.Rob
 
Lunatic cams recommend the coated steel gear the Hughes sells for my magnum roller with their cam... I won’t forget anytime soon as it cost me $400 Canadian by the time it was shipped to my door.

Lunati doesn't know that their core is cast and that a stock gear works just fine then. In fact MOST roller cam cores for the LA/Magnum are cast NOT billet which means new/stock/used/million mile gears like the Melling IS72 work perfect. J.Rob
 
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