Adjustable Strut Rods
:wtf:
No, I did not forget. They have a heim joint, which is NOT a "swivel". And the heim is not inline with the LCA. It's not parallel with the LCA. It's at an angle and then turned partially on its side so it tracks with the motion of the strut rod. It will not allow motion in the direction you're talking about. In order for the strut rod to allow the LCA to move backward, it would have to rotate inward. It can't, because the stiffer poly or Delrin bushing does not compress much (if any, in the case of Delrin) in that direction. If you'd used them, you would know that.
The Delrin bushings have no sleeves, and do press directly into the LCA's. They are lubed on install, but Delrin is a self lubricating material. So no ongoing lubrication is needed on the outside. They don't spin in the LCA anyway, the inner part of the bushing rotates on the LCA pin. That fit is slightly looser, and is lubricated on install. It can be relubricated with the greaseable pins I use, but again, Delrin is self lubricating so it shouldn't be necessary.
Several different poly bushings are now available. The ones from Proforged come with their own new inner and outer sleeves. Apparently you aren't familiar with those, but I suppose that's not surprising. The older style re-use the outer shell. With greaseable pins no inner shell is needed because the pin has a larger outer diameter, eliminating the need for the inner shell. Again, if you were truly familiar with any of these parts you should know that.
Honestly, it seems to me like you aren't familiar enough with the poly and Delrin LCA bushings to make any recommendation about their use or maintenance at all. Your opinion is all based on assumptions and guessing, and badly at that.
I've never used them. They aren't used with adjustable strut rods. Again it seems like you should probably understand that, but I suppose you don't.
I don't recommend them either, the stock strut rods depend on all that squishy rubber to fit because their length is generic. The stock strut rods are a "one size fits most" deal, and when you eliminate all that rubber flex the strut rods have to be the right length, not just vaguely close like they were before. I always recommend adjustable strut rods with poly or Delrin bushings. Suspension is a system, it all has to work together and when you upgrade one part you need to upgrade the ones around it too.
Truly, if you want to use poly strut rod bushings you should be ready to modify the strut rods to be the correct length, because most likely they won't be. This is pretty easy to see, the OE bushings are big and bulky, there's a ton of flex and slop. The strut rods did not have to be all that accurately sized. When you install poly bushings, a lot of that flex goes away. And that means you have to check and make sure the strut rods are actually the right length. And if they're not, you have to adjust the length. You can't just slap this stuff together and call it good, poly and rubber have different properties and requirements.
I have almost 100k street miles on my adjustable strut rods. They work great. The aluminum set on my Challenger has over 70k miles by themselves, and are still in excellent condition. I drive year round, they've seen plenty of unpaved roads and snow. They've actually been one of the most durable parts of the whole set up.
Buddy, I HAVE figured it out. Quite honestly, based on your silly questions and irrelevant "ah-hah" moments where you think you've made a point that isn't physically possible, I seriously doubt your ability to even know when something has been properly installed. The picture you posted earlier of the LCA hanging off the pin confirms that. Anyone with a basic understanding of suspension can look at that picture and tell something is wrong, and yet you thought that was a normal installation. Someone that has as much experience as you should know better.
More BS. PA isn't special, California has plenty of mountain roads worse than anything you've got and I drive them. Hell I drive unpaved roads with my car, pretty common where I'm from in the foothills so everytime I visit family the cars see gravel. The arms can't move away from the K member because the adjustable strut rod doesn't move like that, doesn't matter how big the pot hole is they're not going backward.
:rofl::rofl::rofl:
Here, I highlighted the shear sleeves for you.
Maybe this will help your visualization skills. Sleeve installed in a set of bushings. The washers go on the outside of the bushings, just in case you weren't sure. :p
I had a set laying around because hey, adjustable strut rods don't need them so they were left over.
Again, I'm pretty sure you don't even know what you're talking about here. This is basic stuff you're screwing up. The poly parts do not look like the originals. It's a different material, it functions differently, the design is different.
:wtf:
No, I did not forget. They have a heim joint, which is NOT a "swivel". And the heim is not inline with the LCA. It's not parallel with the LCA. It's at an angle and then turned partially on its side so it tracks with the motion of the strut rod. It will not allow motion in the direction you're talking about. In order for the strut rod to allow the LCA to move backward, it would have to rotate inward. It can't, because the stiffer poly or Delrin bushing does not compress much (if any, in the case of Delrin) in that direction. If you'd used them, you would know that.
The Delrin bushings have no sleeves, and do press directly into the LCA's. They are lubed on install, but Delrin is a self lubricating material. So no ongoing lubrication is needed on the outside. They don't spin in the LCA anyway, the inner part of the bushing rotates on the LCA pin. That fit is slightly looser, and is lubricated on install. It can be relubricated with the greaseable pins I use, but again, Delrin is self lubricating so it shouldn't be necessary.
Several different poly bushings are now available. The ones from Proforged come with their own new inner and outer sleeves. Apparently you aren't familiar with those, but I suppose that's not surprising. The older style re-use the outer shell. With greaseable pins no inner shell is needed because the pin has a larger outer diameter, eliminating the need for the inner shell. Again, if you were truly familiar with any of these parts you should know that.
Honestly, it seems to me like you aren't familiar enough with the poly and Delrin LCA bushings to make any recommendation about their use or maintenance at all. Your opinion is all based on assumptions and guessing, and badly at that.
I've never used them. They aren't used with adjustable strut rods. Again it seems like you should probably understand that, but I suppose you don't.
I don't recommend them either, the stock strut rods depend on all that squishy rubber to fit because their length is generic. The stock strut rods are a "one size fits most" deal, and when you eliminate all that rubber flex the strut rods have to be the right length, not just vaguely close like they were before. I always recommend adjustable strut rods with poly or Delrin bushings. Suspension is a system, it all has to work together and when you upgrade one part you need to upgrade the ones around it too.
Truly, if you want to use poly strut rod bushings you should be ready to modify the strut rods to be the correct length, because most likely they won't be. This is pretty easy to see, the OE bushings are big and bulky, there's a ton of flex and slop. The strut rods did not have to be all that accurately sized. When you install poly bushings, a lot of that flex goes away. And that means you have to check and make sure the strut rods are actually the right length. And if they're not, you have to adjust the length. You can't just slap this stuff together and call it good, poly and rubber have different properties and requirements.
I have almost 100k street miles on my adjustable strut rods. They work great. The aluminum set on my Challenger has over 70k miles by themselves, and are still in excellent condition. I drive year round, they've seen plenty of unpaved roads and snow. They've actually been one of the most durable parts of the whole set up.
Buddy, I HAVE figured it out. Quite honestly, based on your silly questions and irrelevant "ah-hah" moments where you think you've made a point that isn't physically possible, I seriously doubt your ability to even know when something has been properly installed. The picture you posted earlier of the LCA hanging off the pin confirms that. Anyone with a basic understanding of suspension can look at that picture and tell something is wrong, and yet you thought that was a normal installation. Someone that has as much experience as you should know better.
More BS. PA isn't special, California has plenty of mountain roads worse than anything you've got and I drive them. Hell I drive unpaved roads with my car, pretty common where I'm from in the foothills so everytime I visit family the cars see gravel. The arms can't move away from the K member because the adjustable strut rod doesn't move like that, doesn't matter how big the pot hole is they're not going backward.
:rofl::rofl::rofl:
Here, I highlighted the shear sleeves for you.
Maybe this will help your visualization skills. Sleeve installed in a set of bushings. The washers go on the outside of the bushings, just in case you weren't sure. :p
I had a set laying around because hey, adjustable strut rods don't need them so they were left over.
Again, I'm pretty sure you don't even know what you're talking about here. This is basic stuff you're screwing up. The poly parts do not look like the originals. It's a different material, it functions differently, the design is different.
